Eagle_SX4

I don't fully understand the EGR system. But it might be good to know at what instances the solenoid is providing vacuum to the EGR valve to open it. Do you have a vacuum gauge that you can hook up to EGR solenoid?

This morning I swapped an aluminum 4.2 valve cover on to my 4.0. The only mod I did was the Cruiser54 valve cover mod. Right now I have the PCV valve in the back spot but will probably mod a front vent connector to have a metered orifice like the 4.0 valve covers have.

Watching the progress of this build makes me want to build a CJ. Good work with the spring swap.

Where did you get it I am going to replace my radiator soon and was planning on one from a CJ7.

A/C is actually happening. I found a kit from Jeepair (8011) that flips the ac compressor and alternator for the 4.2 v-belt setup I am running on my 4.0. Now I still need to install the HVAC box, condenser, make custom hoses and wire it up.

The REM has an IAC readout. Quote from the REM readout summary. IAC = Idle Air Control Valve Turns (4.0L) On 4.0Ls, idle speed is controlled by an IAC stepper which provides extra air to the throttle body. This is an REM only reading that shows the estimated number of IAC rotations open or closed, with the count starting at 128. The IAC is a stepper motor, which requires the ECU to send individual pulses to rotate. Each pulse is indicated by an open or closed arrow, even if the counter has hit a limit. Note: The ECU does not have position feedback of the IAC so it does not know if the valve is stuck, fully opened, or closed. The ECU will still continue to send pulses to try and correct the idle speed, which could cause the count to eventually hit a limit. Note: The datastream will tell us if the IAC is currently being commanded open or closed, but not exactly how many pulses were sent so this number is only an estimate. The ECU can send multiple step pulses much faster then the datastream updates, and they will be missed by this count. – (< 128) The IAC is being commanded closed more often – (> 128) The IAC is being commanded open more often – If the number continues to rise or fall at idle without stopping, the IAC is either at fault or their is an air/fuel imbalance that is preventing the IAC from fully controlling idle speed.

At PICK-n-PULL in Lynnwood, Washington.

I will let you know, when and if I can find a medium blue wheel.

Still looking. I managed to find a nice navy blue 3 spoke wheel and will trade straight across for a nice medium blue wheel.

I don't think it would be worth the effort of pulling the oxygen sensor. It will take longer to fill the exhaust through the tailpipe, but you can check the entire exhaust for leaks not just the manifold.

No. If you want to find exhaust leaks put the smoke machine up the tailpipe. The intake and exhaust valves are never open at the same time. Meaning there is no open air path to get the smoke into the exhaust manifold.

It doesn't compare to a commercial unit like the one I use at work. However it is a great tool to have and is a great option for occasional use. The one I have uses a diamond wheel which is courser than I would prefer, but it still get the job done.

I don't know anything about the wiring for those later steering columns hopefully someone else can help.

That looks to be a newer steering column. Can you post a pic of your steering wheel?

That will be lots of fun. What transmission are you going with?

These are what you are looking for. One bolts to the dash which houses the switches if so equiped. The other is fused the the cluster trim bezel and is a block off plate.

Timing is not something that changes suddenly unless there was a failure of the distributor or cam shaft. I remember you saying you wiggled the distributor rotor with the cap off and it didn't move much so I don't think you have an issue there.

As I understand it the timing is not adjustable on the 4.0. It is either good or bad. The distributor needs to be indexed properly and the computer will take care of the rest. It is easy enough to check if you distributor is indexed properly.

Make a plug for the brake booster port on the intake manifold like the other one you made and see if your engine runs better. It could be that the brake booster diaphragm ruptured and is causing a vacuum leak. Vacuum is more dependant on throttle position than RPM. An open throttle will have a lower vacuum on the manifold than a closed throttle at the same RPM. Example, driving up a hill at 2,500 RPM the throttle will be open and will result in a vacuum loss in the intake manifold. Driving down the same hill at 2,500 RPM the throttle will be closed while coasting, the manifold will see a lot more vacuum as the engine tries to pull air through every hole it can.

I know the Cherokees and Comanches share transmission cross members. So the mount should be the same between them. Rockauto has different mounts listed for the automatic Cherokee. Anchor 2625 should be the correct part number. It is listed under the 89 Comanche automatic transmission, but it is strange rockauto does not list an automatic transmission for 90-92 on the Comanche.

Probably due to unknown rust issues that may be found upon removal of the windshield. Most glass shops won't have the resources or capabilities to repair rust.

What about "Jeep Bed"?

I had this happen to me. The hose clamp for the filler neck was loose. I also changed out the filler neck and vent hoses out of precaution. The Comanche specific ones are not available but you can cut Jeep Cherokee ones to fit. They are the same diameter just longer.

Ouch. Looks like the bumper wasn't touched, what happened?

I had a difficult time getting the plug out of my engine for the Renix CTS. I stripped the square out and ended up welding a bolt to the plug and was then able to get it out. My manifolds were not on the engine at the time so it was easy for me to do that. With the manifolds on it might be tricky to get it out.