Eagle_SX4

It is for sale again. This time asking $79,900. https://www.ebay.com/itm/326973894397

This explains it better than I could.

If someone wants the wire harness there is one on eBay right now. Part number 83100062. https://www.ebay.com/itm/326305177095 Edit: correction the listing says you can buy up to 5 of them.

After some searching I found a picture of the kit mentioned in the article posted earlier. The wire harness had a connector for the CPS. This kit just bypasses the c101 connector and has you replace the wires in the ECU connector with the new wires for the harness. Changing the CPS would be the same with or with out this kit.

One of those lines is the emergency bypass line for the rear brakes. Originally there was a weight biased proportioning valve bolted under the bed. With a rod down to the axle to adjust the rear brakes based on weight in the bed. There are several ways to remove and bypass the valve. Some put a plug in the distribution block for the emergency bypass line. (easiest option). Others like me have replaced the distribution block with an adjustable proportioning block. (requires new hard brake lines front to back)

What is the part number of the control arms you have?

I know that the harmonic dampers will work on either crank. I am running a 4.2 damper on my 4.0 in my Eagle. There are long and short nose 4.2 crankshafts but either can work if you have a proper spacer to take up the extra length on the long one. As far as I know the only way they can be bad is if the rubber falls out of them or the outer pulley slips on the rubber. Check out this article it better explains the use of the harmonic damper. https://www.hotrod.com/how-to/harmonic-damper-vs-balancer-internal-external-zero-balance-tech

Both the 4.2 and the 4.0 are internally balanced. Changing the harmonic damper should not change the balance of the engine. According to the parts listed on rockauto for a CJ7 and a Comanche the 4.2 and 4.0 share the same pilot hole diameter in the back of the crank. As long as there was not a manual transmission pilot bearing in the crank you shouldn't have any issues with the torque converter bolting up to the engine.

Total black out wheel. Pretty cool to see. https://www.ebay.com/itm/116731188198

As far as I know there is not a non weighted crank shaft it should have either 12 or 4 counter weights. Do you have any pics of the crankshaft you installed in you motor?

That looks like the correct style of plug but it should not be above the transmission tunnel. The footwell lights are on the outside of each footwell (nearest each door). They bolt to the lower dash trim price. Near the far edges. Edit: if my memory is correct one wire will be pink the other black. Also the plugs did change between years but I forget what year was the changeover.

Defiantly one of the best lowered builds. Even better because it is still 4x4.

Does the vibration happen when your driving or when parked and just revving the engine?

Hit up @H3ADBANG4L1F3. I don't know if any thing came of this project but the pictures prototypes looked good.

If I'm not wrong this is mainly to address the C101 connector and not the connector on the sensor itself. This is what Cruiser54 has has said about it

It will get put on my truck eventually after I get it sand blasted and either painted or powder coated. It is a long bed skid plate for the 23 gallon tank.

Installed a refurbished parking brake handle. How I fixed the snapped cable.

If they are wired up using the factory wiring, the headlights need to be on.

I found an e-brake release handle in the junkyard today but the cable was snapped. I decided I would attempt to fix it and it is now back to new condition. 1) Cut the old crimp off the handle and drill a 5/64 hole down the middle of the shaft about 1/2 deep. Also round the corners so you can crimp the cable in the end. 2) Using the Harbor freight wire crimping tool crimp the rounded end of the handle around the new cable. I used a bicycle brake cable it is the perfect size. 3)Feed the new cable through the mounting bracket and mark the approximate length +1/2 inch for the ferrule. 4) Cut a piece of 1/4 diameter rod about 1/2 long. Drill a 5/64 hole through the center. This will be the ferrule you will crimp on to the cable. 5) Crimp the ferrule on the end of the cable and enjoy a renewed brake release lever. Link to the harbor freight hydraulic crimper I used. I bought it months ago to do the wire lugs for my winch. https://www.harborfreight.com/hydraulic-wire-crimping-tool-64044.html

I was surprised this one was actually still there. It is listed under AMC Comanche. I pulled the gas tank skid plate and e-brake release cable. Not much left on this truck.

It looks a lot better than before.

The XJ Cherokee filler necks are available and almost the same just a bit longer. You could get one of those and chop it up and weld it back together.

It would be interesting to see how that was integrated in to the truck. It is probably a lot more reliable than the original vacuum contorls.

What is up with the HVAC controls?