Eagle_SX4

It sounds like there is a short somewhere. I would do a continuity check back to the ECU to rule out the wire harness as the culprit. Unplug the ECU and grab a long piece of wire that will reach the ECU to the engine bay. Using the wire connect one side to the engine bay side of the connector (an alligator clip or probe needle makes this easier) and check continuity at the ECU plug and the long wire.

The only reason I changed to the newer master cylinder was I could not get a new Renix era aftermarket master cylinder to last more than 3 months before it started leaking. So I wanted to try something else. The newer H.O. style(used from 91-96) has not given me any troubles in the last 2 years. If your master cylinder is not leaking and fully functional then it should work just fine with the advance adapters kit. https://www.advanceadapters.com/4993 If this is the kit you are looking at getting from advance adapters it includes the fittings for both the Renix and H.O. style master cylinders. So you could get a H.O. master cylinder later if you run into issues with your current master cylinder. @Htchevyii put that kit in his truck here is his write up on it.

I spotted a JDM Skyline GTST a few years ago.

What year is your truck? I am running the H.O. master cylinder with my external AX15. If I remember right the bolt pattern is a little bit wider than the one in my '87. So you just need to oblong the holes in the fire wall about 1/16" or less to get it to bolt in. A round file makes quick work of that. The pedal mounting hole needs to be drilled out to the larger size of the '87 pedal. I have no complaints about the setup in my truck. I did not get a pre led system but rather the clutch master and slave cylinders separately and had to get the advance adapters clutch line because I couldn't find another option and I already had the master and slave cylinders. This thread has the parts I ordered from advance adapters for the clutch line.

Very good work with the sway bar. It makes a world of difference. It is cool that you used a front bar in the rear, defiantly a better fit width wise than the WJ bar I put in mine. I know the front bars came in a few different diameters so you could tune it by swapping bars. Also moving the axle is fairly easy. Just measure 3 times before drilling the holes in the leaf spring perches. I moved the rear axle in my Eagle last weekend for the opposite problem my axle was to far back and needed to come forward to clear the mudflaps.

It is probably not your rear main seal. I had this exact thing happen when I did mine. What is probably happening is your oil pan gasket is not seated properly under the rear main cap. The blue fel-pro gasket likes to push in or out of the oil pan and leak every where once the oil is moving inside the engine. I used some silicone to glue the gasket to the oil pan (just under the rear main seal) and then put it back together and has been fine since.

Over the last 2 weeks I have put brand new springs on it front and back. The new front coils I got from ESPO Springs and Things and the rear leafs I got from General Spring. The new front coils did not drop the front like I was hoping(has about 2 inch lift). However the rear leafs did drop it factory height in the rear. To lift the rear up, I pulled the old leaf pack apart and cut the eyes off the main spring and added it to the new pack and now the rear is at 2 inch lift. It should ride a lot better than the 3 inch lift I had with the XJ add-a-leaf. I also was hoping the new leafs would fix the rear wheel center in the wheel arch I was fighting. They did not. So I moved the rear axle forward about 1/2 inch. Now the rear wheels are centered in the wheel well and should never rub the mud flaps again. I did this by drilling new holes in the leaf spring perch on the axle and in the spring plates. It came out really well and am very happy with the results.

There was also a transfer case badge in the same location on the passenger side of the tail gate. Most common was the Command-Trac badge for the NP231 or NP207. I found a Selec-Trac badge for the NP242, that will get put on my tailgate.

Those tail lights look like they could be saved. Sand off the black paint with increasing grits from about 400 up to 2,000 then use some headlight polishing compound. They will look like new. In the event they can't be saved new ones are available from Key Parts. They are available with black, silver or no trim. https://www.ebay.com/itm/115801642492

The switch was on the right side of the steering column.

The front hitches I have seen pictures of have tow hooks built into them and the factory hooks would not be necessary.

Until someone gets your build sheet for you. You can cross reference your vin with the parts manual codes found in this post. It won't tell you much but it is a start.

If you search on car-part.com for Jeep Cherokee front driveshaft 4 cylinder auto, there are several across the country. Prices range between $40 and $100.

This is a very nice truck. Glad to help with the part. I hope my truck will be this nice someday.

You can get a different switch and put it into a HO thermostat housing. That is what I did and it is working great. This is the switch I got. https://www.jegs.com/i/Setrab-USA/636/TS200/10002/-1 Just extended the existing wires to the new location and you are good to go.

They are listed on rockauto.

I think they were there but not deep enough to use a tap so my dad drilled them deeper and found the water jacket.

Yes I think they did. According to the the parts diagrams from moparpartsgiant.com early 87 wranglers had the plastic cover and late 87-90 had the aluminum one and there are 2 different gaskets. One with a straight side for the plastic one and one with lots of curves for the aluminum one. Yes, as far as I know the only factory option was plastic. The aftermarket aluminum ones are the only option to get an aluminum valve cover for them. In order to fit them you need to drill and tap a few holes in the head to get it to bolt on. And one of them is over a water jacket that is really easy to drill into. But some Teflon tape fixes that issue. (happened on my dad's engine)

The 87-90 4.2 aluminum valve cover uses the same gasket as the 4.0 of the same years. The bolt pattern is way different and I don't think it will bolt up.

It defiantly happened here is some proof. The very first pic.

It's cool to see another '87 with that paint job. Mine was that way from the factory as well. Paint work is paused but in progress.

Yes they reused the Cherokee pic for the Comanche specs. But the numbers are correct.

There at least 3 different bump stop heights so that measurement will vary based on which one you have. The factory measured the distance from the top of the axle tube to the bottom of the frame and should be as indicated in the pic below .

Got it I found an alternate part number that is supposed to be the same but a newer revision and they seem to be available but about $6 per clip. New part number 06504995AA. Edit: this is thread I meant to link both have the same alternate part number.

They may be the same or similar as the ones for the vent trim on the outside for the B pillars. I found some on Amazon that are a direct match for those. https://www.amazon.com/APPH5640-Plus-Parts-House-Compatible/dp/B01E8IY8K2