Eagle_SX4

I have always thought the flow should go in the bottom and out the top to prevent air getting trapped in the heater core. It is easier for the air to get out of the heater core when pushed out the top vs the bottom.

I have ACOS on my Comanche but I don't think they would work in this situation. They rely on the coil post being there and bolt on were the original bump stop was.

Nice wheels. I have nearly the same wheels on my Comanche. Mine don't have the bead lock trim rim.

I am going to try and make it down there in my Eagle. I have been wanting to do an epic road trip for a while now. I also needed some motivation to get some things buttoned up on it

I don't hear any surging and the stumble seems to not be consistent with the spraying of fluid. Must be a small enough leak that the engine doesn't seem to care about it. What idle air control valve do you have, Renix or H.O.? When I went to the 98+ horseshoe manifold and throttle body I kept the Renix idle air control valve. However after watching my REM it is constantly sitting at fully closed to keep the idle down. I am going to swap out to a H.O. IAC valve and see if that helps keep it from being fully closed all the time. This might be your issue as well.

I may be wrong but I don't think there are any actual seals on the throttle shaft. I think the seal relies on the sealed bearings. That is at least how the Renix throttle bodies are. You could test to see if that is a real issue by spraying starting fluid at both sides and seeing if the idle increases.

This is what I made to keep any brake fluid off the fuse block.

I made a drip tray for my master cylinder that sits on top of my fuse block. It is held in place with some double sided mounting tape. I will get a pic tonight of what it looks like.

The fittings needed for the -3AN clutch line from Advance Adapters are 716130 (for the master cylinder) and 716130TJ (for the slave cylinder). The clutch line is part 716130-60. *These parts only work with the 91+ master cylinder and external slave cylinder.

It is a available from advance adapters. https://www.advanceadapters.com/5046 The description says YJ but it does fit the XJ/MJ master cylinders as well. I am using it in my truck.

The winch alone is worth $300. Barnes4wd sells bumper mounts for custom bumpers.

I am definitely not great with math and hydraulics. But in practice I also noticed the heavier pedal after the external slave swap. When I swapped to the newer master cylinder I did not notice a difference in force between the old an newer master cylinders. Both require about twice the pressure to disengage the clutch vs the internal slave set up.

The extra force required to push the clutch comes from the use of the clutch fork. The further you are away from the clutch release bearing the more pressure required to do the same amount of work. I used both the original ba10 master cylinder then went to the later external slave master cylinder and noticed no difference in required force to disengage the clutch.

Thanks for getting the site back to functional. The biggest thing that can help cut down on photo size is cropping out the useless back ground in photos. Also cropping can be done on any device with any basic editing application. It can cut photo file size 5x smaller or more. Then the pics don't get as compressed when uploaded and the important parts of the pic are much clearer.

I got a Duralast fan clutch from AutoZone last year and it said made in USA. It has been working great.

The lower section is called the parcel shelf. I will be replacing the entire dash and adding AC at the same time. So I will replace the heater box with an HVAC box and add the additional ducts that are not present in the non AC cars. I will also be making a bracket to mount the AC compressor on the bottom instead of the top so I can keep the alternator up top like it is on the non AC cars.

I am running into similar problems. The dash in my car is broken in several places I found one that was in better shape in the junkyard and pulled it only to find a bunch of hidden cracks and issues. It will be a few months before I can find enough time to fix it well enough to swap it into my car.

That ZJ looks good but just remember that it doesn't have the AW4 transmission like the XJ's do. Failure of the auto transmissions in the ZJs is the number 1 reason they get sent to the scrap yard. At 1 time there was 2 dozen ZJ's in the local junkyard. They tend to cycle through them regularly and right now there are 12 there.

Since it only happened with the rain, it is most likely an open wire at the turn signal sockets. When they get wet they short out somewhere. I would re wire your turn signal sockets and use some marine grade heat shrink to insulate the wires. It has hot glue on the inside to seal the connections.

Thanks. I saw they have different pads available separately and was just curious if you used the ones in the kit or had swapped to a different set.

That is good to hear. After moving to 33's I am in need of a brake upgrade. What brake pads are you running?

How do you like the Wilwood brakes? I think this might be the next upgrade I do to my truck.

You can get new terminals for the fuse box and crimp them on. Also this thread is shows how to rebuild you fuse block.

I have had this problem a couple of times and it was always the wires breaking off of the brake light switch. Check those wires first. The park lamps and brake lamps should be on different fuses. It might be different if it is H.O. or Renix. This thread has a fuse box diagram for an '88. https://comancheclub.com/topic/49871-fuse-panel-help/?do=findComment&comment=709006

I was looking into getting a Civic SI of the same generation as yours but decided not to because of all the documented electrical issues with those cars.