Eagle_SX4

Long bed 16 and 23 gallon tanks are the same the only difference is the vent tube inside dictating how much fuel goes into the tank. If you can find one I would definitely go with the Bosch fuel pump over a stock replacement. It is a newer design that runs quieter.

MTS is the only company I am aware of that make a new sending unit. http://www.mtscompany.com/sendingunits.htm They don't take online orders you need to call them. I have one in my truck and it works well. I got the version with the included pump but have already switched it out. I used a Bosch 69302 to replace it and would recommend you find one of those pumps. They have been discontinued but I found mine on eBay.

You should see 31 psi at idle and 39 psi with the vacuum line on the fuel pressure regulator removed.

Defiantly check with a fuel pressure gauge. Even a poorly working pump will get some pressure up to the fuel rail.

Did you test the pressure with a gauge or did gas spray out when you depressed the valve?

Listening to the video its sounds like the engine is okay. Some pics of where the oil is would help but it is most likely a bad valve cover gasket. I am with Pete on this one check your fuel pump. Sometimes when fuel pumps die they die slowly and seem okay when cold but worse when hot.

I also had to rewire the relay harness I have on my Eagle.

For anyone wondering the hole for the rubber bumper piece is 5/16 diameter. I am having a hard time find a suitable replacement. Most places don't list sizes of the bumpers they offer and those that do don't have the correct size.

I knew that matchbox had released an Eagle 3 years ago but this year they released one with the same paint scheme as yours. I haven't found one in store yet but have seen a few on eBay.

That That is what I did. I don't know of an add a leaf with enough arch to really lift a Comanche.

I would look at you local classifieds and see if you can find some higher end tires that someone is selling for cheap.

Finding an add a leaf to get you 3 inches of lift on a Comanche is a tall order. I added an XJ full length add a leaf and got only about 1/2" of lift. The add a leaf had nearly the same free arch as the Comanche leaf's when the truck was on the ground. Also just to put my experience in, I got the General Springs 1250 springs and saw absolutely no lift. After about a month of driving they had settled just below factory height of about 9 inches axle to frame (which is why i added an extra leaf to try and get some extra lift in the rear). I am the only one I can find that didn't see any lift from the General Springs springs. It is very infuriating. I really wanted some extra lift in the back. Don't expect lift with the General Springs springs but be happy if you get it.

The easiest way to continually run the fan is to just unplug the coolant temp switch in the radiator and jump those 2 wires together. On the harness side not the switch side. Check you wires down in that area and see if that connection is wired together. It is a 2 wire GM weather pack connector. I don't remember what color the wires are.

Some pics would really help in this situation. I used a cable for an 84 XJ on my Eagle when I switched to the XJ style speedo gear. It should have the same ends you are looking for. The part number is ATP Y803 and is 83" long.

All you need to do to disable the feature is to unplug the module. Your lights will function normally and shut off immediately.

Some Comanches were fitted with the sentinel light system. If you have the module in your truck it could be miss behaving and causing the lights to come on. Something to check out. As for the buzzing there is supposed to be a headlight warning buzzer and sometimes a seatbelt warning buzzer. Those could be the source of your noise.

Since you have 3 carbs I would suggest pulling all the jets out of all of them and putting the smallest ones into the car. And seeing if that helps. Also look at the metering rods they can wear out as well. That is not a big deal. Those can be adjusted to help lean it out as well. If I remember correctly turn them in to go leaner and out to richen it up. This is a good short write up on helping tune the BBD carb. https://forums.amceaglesden.com/index.php?topic=47427.0

The jets are probably worn out. The metering rods go through the jets and move every time the pedal is pressed down. That is the most likely cause you are running rich. You can move the metering rods down to help compensate for them wearing out but it only helps so much. The jets are usually numbered so just replace them with what is in there. You can change the jets without removing the carb. Just remove the upper half of the carb and you will see the jets in the bottom of the float bowl. Unscrew them with a flat blade screwdriver then use a toothpick pressed into the middle of the jet to remove it.

Even if you don't do the by pass get a wideband O2 sensor to help you tune what you do have. That would be the most time efficient way to pass emissions.

For now I suggest keeping it carbureted. I have read some about the Weber swap and it seems like a good option if you have the correct model. You can still buy all the parts for the Carter BBD. I ran one on my 4.0 for about 2 years before I put the multi port injection on. Also if you have the version with the computer controlled stepper motor on it, that adds to the tunning issues. If you keep the BBD I would suggest bypassing the computer using the "nutter bypass" method. Then finding a non stepper motor BBD. Those are much easier to tune. I highly suggest getting a wideband O2 sensor to help with tunning. For me it was nearly impossible to tell if the changes I made helped or hurt the tune.

If you weren't a few states away I would give you one of the ones I have. I have one black and one chrome bumper I am going to sell.

Pretty sure they are talking about this

A picture from the bottom side would definitely help to see how bad this rust really is. It is hard to tell but it looks like the floor support was cut off next to the rocker support and you should be able to see the frame through the floor. However I don't see the frame.

If everything is working well I wouldn't change anything about the harness. You may want to delete the c101 connector on the firewall or at least clean it. I would replace the plastic split loom and maybe replace the friction tape. When you have the old split loom off go over the wires and check for any cracks or missing insulation. There are several places that have crimped and soldered splices that should be looked at closely and repaired if damage is found. (they are usually covered in duct tape, yes that was factory) There are a lot of GM Weather-pack connectors in the harness and the plastic terminal ends can be replaced very easily with out any wire cutting. You just need a weather-pack disassembly tool along with some new connectors. I have not come across any fuses in the engine bay. There are 4 relays by the battery that should be tested for function and continuity. The relay connectors should also be cleaned.

If you want to isolate the pump you could take take the belt off. Then having the belt only around the power steering pump, use a hand drill with the belt around the chuck to drive the pump by itself with the engine off to check the pump itself. It would be a little precarious but should work.