Eagle_SX4

I got the engine swap completed. This is a full H.O. block and head running Renix EFI. 91 4.0 H.O. block and head, 99 intake manifold, throttle body, air box and power steering pump, shorter serpentine belt #5061000. Open cooling system conversion using a Mopar radiator I found in the junkyard (totally clean and leak free). I used H.O. thermostat housing that I ported. I put a thermal fan switch in the port meant for the H.O. temp sensor. This is the one I got and it works great. https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productdetails.asp?RecID=27900 Used a universal coolant overflow bottle that fits perfectly next to the air box. Dorman #603-001. I got mine at the local AutoZone for about $25 after tax. It is a true expansion tank with the port on the bottom. Renix fuel rail with tabs welded on to mount to the new manifold. Did that so I didn't need to figure out new fuel lines. Also the Renix fuel rail should run a lot cooler being it is a nearly full cycle fuel rail. Meaning fuel goes in one side and out the other. It doesn't dead head like the H.O. fuel rail does having both the supply and return ports right next to each other.

That is where I got the idea for the socket extension for the spool lever. I emailed them but they never got back to me on when the M8000 remote free spool adapter would be available. So I made my own.

It is probably your manifold bolts. They like to come loose and sometimes fall out. If you remove the air box you can get to all of them from the top of the engine. There are 11 bolts/studs total.

With the iron rock bumper I welded a socket extension on the spool lever and drilled a hole in the bumper to access it by using a socket extension through the front of the bumper it works really well. The trick is drilling the hole in the right spot.

I got one from Iron rock off-road a few months ago and like it. It took some modifications to get to fit properly but it is a good kit. https://www.ironrockoffroad.com/product/Mamba-xj-front-modular-bumper.html There are some pics in my build thread. I haven't used the winch yet but I like the design and it ties in to the frame very well. You do have to cut a large amount out the front cross member to fit the winch.

The engine is fully prepped and ready to go in. I will pull the old engine on Monday.

The Bosch 69302 uses a factory style strainer. Get one that is listed as fitting your truck. It will look like this

2 weeks ago I upgraded my drag link and went with the Moog DS1238 (91+ XJ drag link 22mm threads). I got it on rock auto for about $45+ shipping. I did not know about the ZJ tie rod with the 22mm threads I will be looking to swap to that soon. To me the best solution is to use the 91+ XJ drag link and the ZJ tie rod. So you get 22 mm threads all around and don't have to modify anything.

You can use any intake manifold (horseshoe or log style) on the Edelbrock head but you can't use the 2 piece cast iron exhaust manifolds on them.

Picked up a freshly rebuilt '91 4.0 to swap into my truck. Also picked up a '99 horseshoe manifold with a '93 fuel rail and a '96 throttle body from the junkyard to throw on it. Hopefully I will start this swap next weekend. The guy I got this engine from is an automotive machinist and he rebuilds and machines jeep motors on the side. It is bored over .020 with new cam/lifters, polished crank and fully machined block and head.

I also recommend the Bosch 69302 pump kit it comes with all the adapters you will need to install the new style pump in the older sending unit. I just put one in my truck 3 months ago The only issue will be finding one. I was able to find one on eBay for about $50. If you can't find one you could also make new brackets and solder/braze them on to the existing hanger.

After a quick Google search it seems like a common issue on those Pilots. Looks like you will need a new rear knuckle to fix it as the shock mount was cast into the knuckle. Here is a forum post about it. https://www.piloteers.org/threads/lower-rear-shock-mount.171108/

Found some grade 8 washers to make up the difference thanks for the replies.

I was surprised to learn that the cam shafts were the same as well.

I just replaced my drag link and tie rod ends on my truck and tightened everything up and went to put the cotter pins in place and the castle portion of the nut is below the cotter pin hole. How do I fix this? Maybe drill a new hole? Or are my the tapers in my spindle stretched somehow?

The cam profile is identical from 87-96. The H.O. engine only made more power in the upper RPMs because of the improvements in the head to flow better when the RPMs are closer maxed out. It could be an improvement if you regularly reach 3500+ rpm but other wise you probably won't notice a difference.

He has several videos on his YouTube channel about that truck. It is a very cool build. He is currently building a ZJ. https://youtube.com/@cb.offroad?si=-t9vP3-47yuLW7X0

I discovered something interesting about the CPS Crank fault error on the REM. It will appear no matter what if you don't have spark. I changed my cap and rotor and forgot to plug the coil lead back in and went to start the truck but it would not start but the CPS Crank fault error popped back up. Only to realize that if there is any fault in the ignition system the REM will display the CPS crank fault error.

These shelves are very handy and you could use the same design on your tail gate shelf. https://www.harborfreight.com/folding-side-tray-for-4-drawer-tech-cart-slate-gray-72414.html

I really like the AX15/242 combo. I run it in my truck. It would be cool to find out if it was a factory option.

The TPS will move farther than the throttle (both opened and closed) which is why adjusting it is critical. The max voltage with the TPS off the throttle body will be higher than when it is installed adjusted properly and the throttle maxed out.

Funny you mention that the first time I got it to run the distributor was unplugged and the sync sensor error code popped up on the REM but it was running. I shut it off and plugged it in and it didn't make much difference in how it ran.

This all started because of a failed cam gear and still not sure why it failed. Just checked my oil pressure with a mechanical gauge and during cold idle it is at 50 psi.

Your fuel pump is coming on but is sounds like the pressure line has come off of the pump and it is just moving the gas around in the tank. I would pull you pump out and double check that everything is hooked up as it should be.

I just ran into this a similar issue. My rem said CPS Crank fault but I had spark which didn't make any sense. You also have spark because it would not fire with starting fluid if you didn't. I noticed that the CPS Crank fault doesn't come in immediately when cranking it takes a few seconds to turn on. Which leads me to believe that the computer cuts spark after it doesn't fire. And you either have a fuel issue or your distributor is not indexed properly. Don't change your CPS out. It is probably not the issue. Based on all your symptoms you definitely have a fuel issue and first you need to check if your fuel pump is running. It should turn on for about 2-3 seconds when the key is first turned on then the fuel pump will shut off. You will be able to hear the pump run. If you can't hear the pump run. That is where I would start.