Eagle_SX4

I replaced the CPS today and it still didn't start. I tested the new CPS with my volt meter and was getting about .53 AC volts. So it tested good. The rem code "CPS Crank Fault" occurs because the computer doesn't see any rpm while cranking. Which in most cases is the CPS but in rare occasions like mine when the distributor is not turning it throws the same code. This is the description of that code from https://nickintimedesign.com/rem-codes-description/ CPS Crank Fault: No Engine RPM Detected after 3 seconds of starter engagement. Possibly faulty CPS, engine cranking speed too low. On a hunch I was watching the SYN readout on the REM and it was not spinning while cranking. About 5 months ago I replaced the cam gear on the distributor because it was being ground down by the cam. I pulled the distributor out and the cam gear I put on has been ground down worse than before and now there is no teeth on the cam gear for the cam shaft to grab. So this means I will need at minimum a distributor gear but that will probably get chewed up as well. An engine rebuild looks to be in my near future with all of that destroyed cam gear going through the oil.

Nice winch. If you want a full size spool you can order one for a M8000 and then you can have a 9000 lb winch with a 100 foot spool. This was my plan until I found a much better deal on a M8000.

Can confirm that the CPS is dead thanks to the R.E.M.

Had an adventure today when I had 3 failures simultaneously. Was driving today and when the truck sputtered and died. I was doing 60 mph. I thought I had just run out of gas. Luckily I was on my way to my parents house and my mom brought me some gas and after adding about 3 gallons of gas the fuel gauge needle came off of empty but still wouldn't start. It was sputtering but wouldn't stay running. Opened the hood and found that the map senor vacuum on the throttle body had come loose and plugged that back in but it still wouldn't start. Next I texted the CPS and it tested at .35 volts AC. Which according to Cruiser54 is a failed/failing CPS. My question is how often does a CPS fail while driving? I had read about no starts because the CPS is bad but not anything about it failing while driving? Or is it just a coincidence that it failed after the map senor vacuum line popped out?

I don't think I have seen any vehicle with 6 cross bars on the roof. All jokes aside it is a great looking Cherokee Country.

I found a 95 XJ booster in the junkyard and can confirm that the 95-96 XJ booster is the best option for the dual diaphragm upgrade with no mods to the booster rod. The booster rod measures the same length as the old single diaphragm booster. Also the only difference I can find between it and the later 97+ booster is the booster rod length. So if you are doing this upgrade definitely get a 95-96 XJ booster. I did get my hands on a TJ booster and although the rod is much closer to the same shape as the original it is also to long and would need to be modified to fit properly.

I have had the wires break twice before. Make sure that the wires plugged into the brake light switch are not broken.

This thread has pics of all engine options and years. Hopefully it has what you need.

There is a lot going on with that Civic. VW beetle fenders and a YJ Wrangler grille. With maybe a square body Chevy hood used as a visor.

You can buy brand new hose ends with barbs on them from dorman. They are available in both 3/8 and 5/16. They look a little different but that is because they have tool less clips and can be removed with out any fuel line fitting tools. https://www.dormanproducts.com/p-16452-800-121.aspx https://www.dormanproducts.com/p-24796-800-120.aspx

If the stalk is very loose you could have a broken turn signal switch. If the new one is as loose as the old one that is probably the reason.

I agree with this, those old rubber lines can cause issues.

The intermittent wiper module can be removed and the wipers will retain the high and low speed settings. It is located under the steering column stuck to the inside of the lower dash panel with some Velcro. You can take it out and plug the wires back together.

I used a cheap aftermarket one.

I must have gotten lucky because I did not have to clearance anything to get it to fit. It bolted right up with no issues.

That looks to be the connector for the washer lever sensor. It was never used on the Comanche but was an option on the Cherokees. The Comanches are missing the interior wiring for the light. The exhaust manifolds are known to crack. Easiest solution is to grind out the old weld and weld it back up. You can also swap to the newer H.O. (91-95) header with the bellows built in which are less likely to crack. If you do that you will also need to replace the down pipe and figure out something for the egr. I did the swap and just cut the egr bung out of the old header and welded it in to the new header and cut and extended the egr tube... Also looks like your valve cover was leaking a bit. Either the gasket or the oil fill cap both can cause leaks. My oil fill cap is leaking.

My axle shaft may be bent but the noise only started about 6 months ago about 1.5 years after I did the conversion. Which is why I think that the bearing is what caused the issue and not a pre bent axle shaft.

I had a clicking noise coming from the bearing and there was a visible wear mark on the axle when I pulled it out. Since I removed the bearing there has not been any more noise from the front axle.

Update make sure you pull the axle tube bearing out. The one that sits on the end of the intermediate shaft. The axle shaft does fit through the bearing but when turning it contacts the bearing and runs on the shaft. It could lead to a bent or broken axle shaft.

I got the both bumpers powder coated and the winch is fully installed and operational. I was able to keep the factory skid plate with the new bumper. Also I did a custom free spool lever so I didn't have to reach under the Jeep to unlock the winch. I cut off the handle and welded a 3/8" extension on it and drilled a hole in the bumper to access it. It works very well.

I have had a starter that bench tested fine but when installed on the vehicle it refused to turn the over. Changing the starter fixed the problem. I would suggest taking the starter to you local parts store and having them test it. It would be good if you could get the vehicle to the store so they can test it in the truck. If you have a manual transmission maybe you can push start it?

I am interested in how this will turn out. I am looking for a good solution to connect AN lines to the factory sending unit.

Finally got the hub caps stickers made. I might paint them as the painted section is faded but they came out really good.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/205542677571?itmmeta=01JYPT96R99DFYX43140APA6PR&hash=item2fdb4c5c43:g:3FgAAeSw84xoRG3A

The fitting you want for the the internal slave cylinder should be 716130F from advance adapters if you use their -3 AN hose. Edit: The kit that @Htchevyii has all the adapters you should need. Part # 716130IR. That kit has only a 42 inch long hose. I used the 60 inch hose and am not sure if a hose 18 inches shorter would work.