Eagle_SX4

The part number for that switch is 56000025. I have pulled several out of Cherokees from the junkyard. I am fairly certain that Jeep used the same switch for the power/comfort transmission switch.

Awesome truck. Just one question. How do you access the engine to do any service on it? That frunk appears to block the entire engine bay.

Not exactly what your looking for but these are available. https://collinsbrosjeep.com/1980-1986-jeep-cj-amc-horn-button-insert/

That looks great. I think that is one mod everyone should do.

I went about 3 inches past the hinges. You could go the entire length of the firewall just to be safe. As long as you hood to cowl seal is in good shape that isn't necessary.

Looks great! I would go further inboard with the seller on the firewall. I just had a leak there last week. I had sealed it before but did not go far enough with the sealer.

The rear brakes on a 1984 Jaguar XJ6. It has independent rear suspension and the brakes are in-board right next to the pumpkin. You have to tear the entire rear suspension apart to get the brakes changed. Edit: Jaguar used the inboard brakes from about 1961-1993

Thanks I will get some nicopp for the hard line.

I found out this weekend that my horns only work when the key is on.

I don't like how I did the fuel lines on my Eagle and would like to upgrade them to something better. I am running a '92 HO 4.0 with a Cherokee tank. All the connections at both the fuel rail and tank are the same as the Comanche. I used a hard line from the firewall back to the rear axle with fuel injection hose clamped to the ends. I did buy and use a flare tool but it left much to be desired and ultimately had to use 2 hose clamps on each connection to keep it together. I did have the pressure line blow off the adapter for the fuel rail which is why I am looking for a better solution. I am thinking of switching to some -6 AN lines. I have found some fittings that will hook up to the fuel rail. I will probably flare the hard line to 37 degrees and use a tube sleeve and tube nut. I have not decided if I am going to use the stainless or nylon braided hose. The big unknown is how I will hook up the an lines to the fuel sending unit. I could probably just use some standard fuel injection hose with hose clamps on to a push lock AN fitting. If anyone has experience with AN hoses and fitting some advice would be much appreciated. I know that all the fittings and hoses will add up quick but I would like a fuel system I don't have to worry about.

Got the ends welded on today and some grinding done. There are a few seems I will go over again but it is fully assembled.

Got started on the bumper build. The center section is fully welded on the outside still need to finish the inside and the sides. Also relocated my horns up and out the way.

That is exactly the same as the ones in my Eagle. Just a crimped butt connection that was soldered.

I cut open all the ones on my Eagle and the were just crimped and soldered splices no fuses of any kind.

I don't think those are fusible links. AMC used those rubber injection pieces to cover wire splices near the starter relay. I recently did something similar to my Eagle. I added a fuse block to deal with all the wires at my starter relay. I got this one from Summit Racing. They have quit a few options for these from 4-10 fuses and ring or spade connectors. https://www.summitracing.com/search/brand/summit-racing/part-type/fuse-blocks

I will keep that in mind.

I tried to find an 8 inch wide wheel but couldn't find one that I liked with enough backspacing. Most of the 8 inch wide wheels I found only had 3.5 - 3.75 inch backspacing. I am not worried about it. The new tires will have the same sidewall to rim clearance my 31x10.5's have on my 8 inch wheels.

I think GM used the same jack in their trucks through the 90's. Although the GM ones don't have the extra wide foot welded on and only some have the gear reduction.

33's here we come!!! Got some 17's that will go on once I get tires (285/70R17) and trim the fenders. The tires will not clear at the current ride height and I don't want to go much higher. I will probably end up going with the bushwacker pocket flares. The wheels are Mammoth Boulder's 17x9 5x4.5 4.5 backspacing.

I have found that if you crop the picture to only the stuff necessary it is more likely to be a clear image once uploaded.

Just make sure your track bar and drag link are parallel. I tied a string to the mounting points of both to make it easier to see the angles

It sure does.

It does make a difference when cornering and seems more stable going down the road.

Last month I added a rear sway bar. I used one from an XJ Cherokee. I made new axle and frame brackets. It came out great.

It might be worth pulling if it is a 4wd transmission but if it is a 2wd I would leave it there.