Eagle_SX4

Cool no headrests. Heard that was an option.

Just would like to add that there are 2 different football reservoirs. One that has 2 sides and 4 ports with internal check valves, not available new. The other is the same size but only has one chamber, one port and relies on an external check valve to function, this one is available new.

Thanks for all the info. @neohic thanks for the part number on that 44 cover. Going to change the fluid in my 44 soon and when I did the gears, I noticed the cover (with a threaded plug) was much thinner than the one on my 35 (has a date stamp of '98 and a rubber plug) Which is what started this question. Will get one ordered. @ghetdjc320 thanks for the info on the rodeo/passport. I will check those next time I'm in the junkyard. Also a diff guard is a great idea. @89 MJ Oddly my Eagles 30 diff cover is thinner than the one on my Comanche. Seems like it is hit or miss which covers were put on which axles.

I was wondering if anyone has any info on what the thickest factory diff covers were. Specifically for the Dana 30, 35 and 44. I am not looking for aftermarket covers just what is the best junkyard cover to pull. I read somewhere that the Grand Cherokee covers are thicker than the Cherokee covers. (Can't confirm that). Also read somewhere about thick 44 covers but can't figure out where to source them from. Any info would be helpful.

This might be what your looking for. https://naxja.org/threads/another-fuel-line-leak-question.1152730/

I stuck with Dana gears when I regeared all my axles and they are doing great. HP 30, LP 30 and 44.

Unless your transmission has been swapped you will have a Peugeot BA10/5. Here is a thread on how to tell the difference.

Also if you take the air box out it is much easier to get to them from the top.

There are 6 total bolts on the bottom of the manifolds including the ones on the ends. The front 3 are in front of the exhaust tubes and the back 3 are behind the exhaust tubes. Here are some pics. Front Back

If you find that it is sitting on the bottom of the tank. You could drill some cross holes in the return line towards the bottom to make sure the gas gets out of the return line.

Maybe the return line is siting on the bottom of the tank not allowing it to return to the tank properly.

All of the top manifold bolts can be reached with a box end wrench. All of the lower bolts can be tightened from the top. You will need a socket and some extensions to clear the intake manifold.

I have aftermarket cats on both of my vehicles that look the same as yours. I did not add any extra heat shields to them. I installed mine with the included heat shield facing up and have not noticed my floors getting hot. More heat shields are good idea.

Best mirrors for visibility are the 97+ XJ mirrors. Although you will need all of the window trim from the 97+ for them to seal properly against the door.

I am pretty sure they are original. The YJ used the same mirrors for the base model as well. https://www.moparpartsgiant.com/parts-list/1992-jeep-wrangler/body_doors_and_related_parts/mirror_exterior.html Ruged ridge makes brand new ones. https://www.extremeterrain.com/rugged-ridge-left-mirror-yj-1100217.html

It appears that cat has a heat shield it is just upside down.

What is the part number for the pump you have? That Bosch pump will last longer and be quieter than any pump designed for that hanger. MTS does sell pumps for that hanger. (#EFPK-3204 from MTS). I have not had any issues going on a 1.5 years with their pump. If you check on rockauto they have several brands but they may not last for long. https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/jeep,1988,comanche,4.0l+242cid+l6,1181584,fuel+&+air,fuel+pump,6256 If you decide to keep that bosch pump you will also need to find a connector for it. It is not the same as what is on the sending unit. Sometimes a replacement comes with the new pump sometimes not.

Jeep did not start using the newer turbine style pumps (like the one you have) until 94. The MTS unit is designed to use the older rotary vane style pump like these trucks had from the factory. I know there are several who have upgraded to the newer pumps. It will take some custom engineering on your part to secure it to the sending unit in the proper location. You will either need to make new brackets and solder them on to the return line or maybe use some hose clamps.

The check engine light info starts on the bottom of page 13.

I found the instructions for the kit. Oddly they are on Quadratec's website. https://www.quadratec.com/sites/default/files/installation_instructions/2688.pdf

Yes it could but unlike the Renix system I haven't been able to find much info out there for testing all the components. Most of the time the fault codes will point you in the right direction.

If this was indeed the Mopar kit it should have a check engine light somewhere. The codes are just a series of blinks and pauses. This thread shows how to read them.

I built the junkyard version of that conversion to run in my Eagle. It is all based on the 95 4.0 injection. Maybe check the map sensor sometimes they go bad.

In the description it says the auction is for 2 bezels. Also says they are dark blue not black like I thought

black trim piece for the bucket seat folding lever. https://www.ebay.com/itm/146354018191?_skw=jeep+nos&itmmeta=01JJQH1JGGFRGBWCAB2EN4020R&hash=item221361178f:g:X-4AAOSw9Rxnlun5&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAAA4HoV3kP08IDx%2BKZ9MfhVJKl8CfDT7hzltKoh8si0vpK5nPmqH8XDuXMfY58m28vxKgTbpZDDAc3r6w112UvOBIzHSj24Dm6vJt2GOcIJQdBzHZ1vfOabo7nIIHT%2BWk6V8KGGnqchKTp3SDnVW3vvVbgd7pJxfRHkSgMru7fG%2FdEp9tBTV%2Fg7W7zIf55YwDZ2n5IutetKzqo6e%2BZg5hxVsNmr4rFswj461R8ruvQcB1s%2Fg%2FFJ3t%2Ff7IllfSj%2BQEyFgtLU9GkaTTsXbZV3orvfOEitiiMUUKc0oVh3X9wFYcCZ|tkp%3ABk9SR76ohvGVZQ