Eagle_SX4

$400 on Ebay. https://www.ebay.com/itm/326412847622?_skw=jeep+nos&itmmeta=01JJQH1JGGNXA1CYSA8RVGYMD5&hash=item4bffb8ca06:g:NXUAAOSwtshmotpx&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAAA4HoV3kP08IDx%2BKZ9MfhVJKlK4b7xJtVjiWPIHhrI93tjWVpjW9Wwh9vyus7XcQ%2BeUOkXzZWaSECOXNOQBiYmtpjC5S%2FQEUZwa3E6yeRsgj%2BWyq8XdM%2Bn%2FFcJB2Hn5q7h4FMnxZn%2FrsFU%2BL2XH6H1mrpZT1bSOFEL8%2Bu2ofgIlILPmnDsDDC%2FI%2FnCAdCpCQKrpZ9Qujj0Uo0obUCSzzxF2yNFZO0lFYA3zuasSPHtQhF5ueezwtob6MUq8ScQJ7YVyr%2BRxQO3mG6JTi1L5sRKQmOnA4so7WRCbZ6Fn%2BIlQNy3|tkp%3ABFBMvKiG8ZVl

Great job. I think it looks great in black. I think it would look good if the flares matched the bumpers in black. A 2 tone Comanche stands out from the rest.

No. A relay harness uses the exiting headlight circuit to power 2 or more relays to then connect the headlights straight to the battery. The headlights can draw more current through the switch than it can handle and sometimes causes it to melt or worst case catch fire. Also a relay harness can improve the voltage at the headlights making them brighter than running them through the switch.

If you have installed a headlight relay harness the relays may be wired incorrectly. If you don't have a relay harness I don't know what would cause this.

If ease of removal is you top concern and you are using a paper/fiber gasket use some grease. Just coat the gasket in a light coat of grease an this will do 2 things 1 help the gasket to swell to create a better seal and 2 it won't stick to anything making it really easy to remove. I have had good luck using this method. If you do use silicone make sure it is rated for the type of fluid the gasket will be sealing. The glycol content in most coolants can eat through some silicones. I have also had good luck with this method.

Sometimes the master or slave cylinders will suck in air but not leak. It is very hard to diagnose but could be your issue. I had a new brake master that did this and could not get my brakes bleed. I figured it out by making a short brake line that returned directly to the reservoir and was able to see bubbles flowing into the master cylinder.

Detonator yellow was a 2010 only color on the Challenger. Just a reused code. I suspect the build sheets brings up the codes then translates the codes to the most recent revision of those codes.

In the last 6 years of going to junkyards I have only seen 1 YJ. The wranglers don't make it to the junkyards around me. Just lots XJs ZJs and WJs. If you can live the color difference I would say go for it and let us know how it works out. I think it should be an easier swap than the Dakota seats I did.

I don't think they are after market just the base model mirrors that are not very common. Check out this diagram from moparpartsgiant. https://www.moparpartsgiant.com/parts-list/1988-jeep-comanche/body_doors_and_related_parts/mirror_exterior.html?filter=(E=ERB;T=DGS)&diagram=000019D8

I think that TJ or YJ seats would work fine but they will be hard to find. I put '98 Dodge Dakota buckets in mine but had to narrow the sliders width about 5 inches to clear the transmission tunnel and be low enough I could fit in the truck. From the limited research I have done the 97+ XJ, TJ and 97-04 Dakota seats are all very similar in construction and finding ones that flip forward would be best.

Nice an AMC 20 rear axle. A cool 1 year only option. I don't think I have come across any one else on here with that axle.

These are the ones I used. They have a 3/8 thread instead of the original 10 mm but are nearly identical in length. I tried to find a cheaper option but was unable to. https://www.ebay.com/itm/296024673258

AMC logo cap. I need to add some bondo to the center to smooth them out but I think this might be the final design.

The original fog lights in that picture are Marchal 750's. If you look sometimes you can find them NOS. They also came on a lot of Ford vehicles of the same era. However I don't like the how the bulbs are mounted in the housings. The later trucks had ROL fog lights that are harder to find and were shared with the Renault vehicles. I recommend the Hella comet 450 fog lights instead. They are the same size and look very similar, are a lot cheaper and are a modern design.

Learning something everyday. Thanks for the clarification.

A failed booster will not cause the pedal to go to the floor. That would be your master cylinder. A failed booster makes it harder to push the brake pedal. Cardone does have a different part number for 86 and 88, however Prior and Centric list the same part number. What ever difference that might be there is small enough that it shouldn't matter.

A quick search on Rockauto and it lists the same boosters for 84-90 Cherokee and Comanche.

When your doors are frozen shut press on the doors to compress the seals and break the ice. Then they will open.

This thread has a picture of the difference. Using a 231 gate with a 242 works but the tab on the 231 gate is in between selections on the 242. The easiest solution would be just to cut the tab off so that it is not in the way and shift by feel. The other thing you might run into is the 242 has 5 selections not 4 like the 231. I think the gate is also slightly longer to accommodate for that. If you can't shift all the way into 4 LO or 2 HI then trim the end of the gate for more travel.

I ran into the same problem when I did the rear main on my Eagle with the 4.0. I ended up breaking loose the crank main bearing caps then I was able to get it out. If you do this make sure to retorque the bearing caps before the oil pan goes back on.

I did not add silicone directly to the splines, I removed the gasket slid the yoke on and then added silicone to where gasket sits. Reinstalled the gasket and then retorqued the yoke nut. Leak free so far.

I did think about it but I think it would be to crowded having both "AMC" and "Eagle" in the circle but I will try just an AMC logo and see how it looks. Also I changed my transmission mount and resealed my transfer case over the weekend. Replaced the front input shaft seal and pulled both yokes off and added some silicone to stop the fluid from leaking past the splines.

I pulled my internal slave bellhousing out and have a grommet you can have for the price of shipping. Message me if you would like it.

Yes that new one is correct the old one is from a Cherokee. Most parts stores list the Cherokee sending unit as compatible with the comanche but they are not.

@Heath 5th digit is "s" which means originally was 4 speed 2 wheel drive. It has been swapped to 4x4.