Eagle_SX4

Found a cool book on eBay. Jeep 1987 service highlights. I scanned it in. It is a very interesting read.Jeep 1987 Service Highlights.pdf

That's unfortunate but there still might be a solution. If you can find a 228/229 or 231/242 speedo housing and order a speedo cable for a 84 Cherokee it should all go together. That's what I did on my Eagle. The speedometer has a threaded connector.

You should be able to pull the speedometer gear and housing out of the 207 and put it in the 231.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/303756108476

Here are some pics of what parts should be on your brake light switch. Everything together but removed from the pedal. All the parts. Left to right: Nut, plastic spacer, booster rod bushing, steel switch bushing, plastic spacer, bolt. All together without the switch. The booster rod bushing goes over the steel bushing and there should be 1/32 inch of clearance between the OD of the steel bushing and the ID of the booster rod bushing. This clearance is what actuates the switch. Booster rod bushing installed in booster rod. Steel bushing and spacers on the switch. The bushing should be snug in the holes of the switch. The end of the booster rod. @Whitaker717Hopefully this helps with how it is supposed to go together and what parts should be there.

Bleepinjeep did a good video

It should be easy to install. I had an issue with a replacement booster in my Eagle where the eyelet of the rod had too much material on it not letting me install the switch. Maybe some thing like that is happening. I will get pics tomorrow. I just ran out of time today.

Everything should be loose. It seems like something is not quite right. Check to see if the switch works while removed from the pedal.

I will get some pictures tonight. Just take a look at your switch and make sure it is moving as it should. It does look like you might be missing a few pieces. Maybe the bushings and spacers?

The video I posted was the best I could do with the clutch pedal in the way. I could pull it apart tonight and get better pics if that would help.

Maybe this will help. VID_20241105_182327976~2.mp4 This is how the switch should operate. You can see that the switch moves before the booster rod. I pressed the pedal down with my hand. Shouldn't take much travel of the pedal to activate the switch. (My truck is a manual transmission and the switch is on the opposite side of the pedal arm but is the same other than that.)

Looks great. White letters for the win! Also a rear sway bar is a great addition. Just put one on my long bed last weekend and it is amazing on the road.

The rod that goes to the booster is sandwiched by the brake light switch. That rod needs to have some slop on the rod in order for the switch to function. Press down on the brake pedal with your hand and watch what happens to the switch. The spring should compress slightly.

Another thing you can check is how much slop is there between the brake push rod and the post on the pedal? If there isn't any or only a very small amount that would be why your switch doesn't activate until a lot of pressure is out on the pedal.

Does your brake light switch look like this? If so the bolt that holds it to the brake pedal is probably to tight. The switch itself should be floating on the bolt and not tight against the pedal arm. I had a similar issue on my Eagle. I replaced the switch and the problem went away. Here is a diagram I found of how it is supposed to go together.

Yes it will work but most get away from the manual windows because the regulators are hard to find in good working condition. The front doors on a 4 door XJ (up to 96) are the same as the MJ. You can swap in the 97+ full size windows into the old doors if you want to eliminate the the small window section entirely.

Here is the how to measure ride height and what the stock measurements should be. I have Bilsteins on my truck front and back and they are great.

Some times old hoses can swell on the inside completely blocking flow. I would put the front on jack-stands and turn the steering wheel lock to lock several times to hopefully get the system to self bleed.

The one I have the previous owner order from here. https://core-shifters.com/products/core-hurst-shifter-1989-1999-jeep-cherokee-comanche-6-cyl-w-ax15-5-speed Looks like as cheap as $309 with a blank knob. It has been great. Save those pennies.

Today I installed a rear sway bar following the guidance of HOrnbrod R.I.P. It makes a huge difference in how the truck drives on the street. Definitely worth it if you have even thought about it. Barnes4wd sells weld on TJ rear sway bar mounts for about $10. I used those and a WJ bar from the junkyard for $30. By far the lowest cost and best upgrade I have done so far. I need to shorten the links about 1.5 inches then it will be perfect. Also I added some XJ add a leafs I got from the thrift store. Brand new unused for $10 each. With the original shackles I am sitting about 9.5 inches frame to axle. Much better than 8.25 after my Generalspring springs sagged. Will probably do some JKS shackles soon to hopefully get another 3/4 inch lift in the back. I am going to throw away the Chevy drop shackles I was running. The rode terrible and caused death wobble on the rear axle.

Update picked up a stock XJ pitman arm and it was the same as the one I had. But my track bar still needed to go closer to the frame to be parallel with the steering. I ordered and installed and new bracket and track bar from Core4x4. Now everything lines up as it should. The Core4x4 bracket mounts the track bar 5-1/4 inches below the frame.

I just reassembled my doors after paint and you need to have the rod attached to the lock cylinder before install then just clip it in to the proper hole on the door latch. It makes it much easier.

It could also be your fan clutch. Maybe it is not locking up enough. I have heard that you need a lot of air flow to cool a triple core radiator. Heard that this is a issue with the CSF triple core radiator not sure about the Mishimoto. You could check to make sure you are getting air flowing through the radiator by placing a sheet of paper or a towel in front of the radiator and seeing if it gets sucked up to the radiator. While the engine is running.

@krustyballer16 makes them. Here is a link to the thread

There are 2 different brands listed on rockauto for a 88 Comanche. https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/jeep,1988,comanche,4.0l+242cid+l6,1181584,exhaust+&+emission,pipe+/+resonator,10038 I used a walker tail pipe and it fit well.