Eagle_SX4

I bought an equus oil pressure gauge at the local parts store. Like this one. https://www.autozone.com/gauges-and-gauge-accessories/oil-pressure-gauge/p/equus-white-2in-mechanical-oil-pressure-gauge/255972_0_0 Any parts store should have one. It is a mechanical gauge and you need to add a tee fitting to were the oil pressure switch is on the engine.

Were you running the same oil before you changed all the parts? Did you also change the oil pump? What is your oil pressure? If you have excessive oil pressure it would shoot to the top of the valve cover and get sucked into the air box no matter what mods you have done to the valve cover.

When I got it my car didn't have any radio system in it and I got just a parts store antenna kit and it never worked well. I finally found and installed a factory am/fm radio antenna.

After a quick mock up I found I won't be able to use the factory style brackets. I will have to make my own. I am going to mount them much lower in the front than the factory ones were. Approximate factory location Where I want to put them

Very tempting I will decide tomorrow whether I will use the factory brackets or make my own

I wish I could but my bed and fenders are off while I am painting the cab. But hopefully I will have the cab painted by monday

Got the new mud flaps in the mail. I had to add the missing detail. It is some white adhesive silicone tape. It's supposed to be used as a non slip tape for furniture.

Chrysler made their own books after they bought AMC.

Interesting that it shows both long and short hood prop rods

I also have one on my 87 4.0. Just watch your fingers when opening the hood when the engine is running. The mechanical fan is really close to your fingers. Probably why they went away with it.

If the "new" starter you put in was rebuilt it is probably to blame. I have had issues with rebuilt starters from the parts stores. I put 3 into my Eagle before I got a good one. Ask the clerk at the counter to bench test it before you walk out the door.

I should clarify the 86-88 body manual shows the proper procedures for replacing welded body panels. The 86-88 shop manual refences mostly drivetrain and interior.

As far as I know the body did not change much over the years. Just the drivetrain. If the 89 manual is anything like the 86-88 manual then it won't have any info on body repair just how to take things off. (fenders, doors, and bumpers)

You can get a reprint of the M.R. 278 body manual on rockauto for $20.79. https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=13655417&cc=1181584&pt=10335&jsn=974 Lots of useful information in there.

@boxyjeep Thanks once I the mud flaps come in the mail I will decide how I am going to mount them. I found a thread about putting the front guards on the rear. I think it looks better than how the factory did it. If I could order 2 sets of front brackets from you I probably would.

One of the fender braces is available new. I think it is the left one. https://www.moparpartsgiant.com/parts/mopar-bracket-fender-to-outer-si~55004223.html The other side is not available.

The fender flare brackets are available new from crown for the XJ. Sold individually for about $7 each. https://www.quadratec.com/categories/jeep-body-frame/fender-flares/mounting-hardware

Thanks @fiatslug87 I am probably going to buy some of these and cut them up to fit. https://www.amazon.com/Plasticolor-000542R01-JEEP-MUD-GUARD/dp/B0794CDQ2K They are 11x19 which is pretty close to the overall size and should work better for my 31x10.5 tires.

I want to put some mud flaps on my truck. I was wondering what size the stock ones are? Width and height front and rear.

I had the same thing happen after I replaced my rear main seal. Didn't get the gasket lined up properly over the rear main seal and it just dumped out the back. I took a lot more time and care the second time I put the oil pan on.

If it is only the spider gears that are welded you could just switch out the differential. What gear ratio will you be running? I have a factory limited slip differential I pulled out of my Dana 44 I would let you have for the price of shipping. It has the 3.07 ring and pinion with it.

I don't have any experience with failing spark plugs. However they are easier to check than pulling the fuel rail the change injectors. Maybe start there.

Haven't done much in the last 2 weeks because I got covid. Today I got the rocker fully welded in and welded up the hole in the cowl. Also I installed a 97+ washer reservoir and got it wired and plumbed. Eventually I am going to add the low washer function but that will be later.

My bad I have 5125 front and rear. Rears are Bilstein 33-186542 EXTENDED 24.35 COLLAPSED 15.12. Fronts are Bilstein 24185622 extended 22.09 collapsed 13.58. The rear shocks are about 1 inch longer when compressed compared to the stock ones so you will need to adjust your bump stomps.

Put the axle on some jack stands and remove the wheels. Hang a weight (nut or bolt on a string) off the frame centered over the axle and take some measurements just to see where your axle actually is in relation to the frame. Fix the easy stuff first (bushings and u bolts) then see where the axle is compared the the frame. If it is still 1/2 inch off then you might need to look into getting new perches welded on to the axle.