Eagle_SX4

Also here is a post I made with pictures and more info.

With you having an automatic transmission it probably hasn't been used as much as one in a manual transmission truck. Look at the teeth for the ratchet mechanism and make sure they are sharp and not rounded off. Also note any side to side play. If the rivets are loose get a center punch and tighten them up a bit. Then grease the moving parts and call it good

If you are are replacing it any way just use the screw driver to break the prongs off by bending them out. Then they aren't fighting you.

Yeah it is @996xj and that truck is one of the reasons I have decided to repaint

Well I have decided to repaint my truck to the original colors. Medium blue metallic and Olympic white. The color scheme of this truck is very rare and I have only been able to find pictures of 2 other trucks with this exact paint. I started with the 97+ fenders I got. The pin stripes are not quite right but they are good enough for me. The originals had a 3/8 wide strip of white and this is only 1/4. Also it is painted and not a sticker like the original.

Awesome truck. How is that radiator? I am thinking about getting one.

Awesome are you going to keep the carb or are you going with fuel injection? I know the 258 intake will work on the 4.0 head but not sure about the other way around.

If you order one from a 84 Cherokee it will bolt up to the eagle speedometer and the jeep style speedometer gears.

Install the lower panels from the front kick panels along the floor to the back first before you put the B pillar panels in. The B pillar panels sit on top of and outside of the lower panels.

If you installed a light that had 2 sides and wired each side up to the right/left side brake lights, then they could blink separately. You would then have high and low brake and turn signals.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/143201499941?epid=18029973881&itmmeta=01J0NZBG1V4NF0AZ4QTJSAPV83&hash=item2157797b25:g:k28AAOSwpdpVY1Qv&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAAAwOPWg6VQEppjPZqzzfnKfrQ6vZyWv9mLNR7QKLW9cwGTgbXPhEHyrK7AjfaxfnVB3Cm4SI%2BjTdeJr7PNJ79%2BXz0UkZaAzDbpHxh2cQztBckU2VMjVBkiOmcUQjYSqtgFSKx4rb1RvpncdIuxT3icW7G%2BteLcrqxrHmM%2FYqXi7qtEq0jvyLd70CbqEo8HxrksiqMJucYsxt4yPJcWoHhXYMIRy0yHpomuf1fzUe9n90XwnE%2FxiTS6eTiL1Gpfam06Pw%3D%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR4CBrr-FZA

I agree with @eaglescout526 routing the wire to the topper would be a lot easier and I think it would look better. Although the new Gladiators have the third brake light on the tailgate.

Got some brand new seat belts installed. They are from https://www.seatbeltsplus.com/. They look just like the Chrysler era jeep seat belts but are brand new and are a very similar design to the originals that I pulled out. The driver's side belt had started to tear.

Thanks @Ωhm. They must have altered something from 87 to 88. The plug at my transmission (originaly a BA10/5 swapped to an AX15) is a 4 slot weather pack connector with 2 of the 4 looped and it doesn't show that on the schematic. The only mods the previous owner did to the harness was cut off the puegeot switch and connect the new AX15 switch to the old wires. However I think Jeep changed to a separate manual transmission wire harness in 88 because I have the square plug for the auto transmission tps sitting unused by the throttle body. My truck has always had a manual transmission according to the vin.

That looks like the correct schematic but I can't read it the resolution is to low. Is there any way you can upload a higher resolution? Maybe a PDF file?

After you get all the mouse nest cleaned out make sure your blower motor is good. I blew 2 of those blower resistor packs before I realized that my blower motor was drawing to much current. I swapped my blower motor and haven't had any issues since.

Also don't just trim off an 1/8 inch in one go. Just do a little at a time and then test it out. It may take a few tries but it is the safer way to do it.

Both ends of my after market cable were metal so I could trim either end. I trimmed the speedo end. But if yours has a plastic tip on the speedo side like they were from the factory trim the t case side. Also do you have cruise control? If you do then you should have a 2 speedometer cables a short and a long. If you don't have cruise then you will only have one long one.

The inner cable that spins is probably to long. This happened on my Eagle after I put in an after market cable. I fixed it by grinding the end of the inner cable down about 1/8 of an inch with a flap disc on an angle grinder.

Found on eBay looking for some used ones. https://www.ebay.com/itm/364907464254

Thanks. The thing I don't understand is that I had voltage at the transmission switch but not at the connector until I changed the fuse. I would like to understand why. Does anyone have a schematic for the rear lights?

I did look for an additional ground along the harness but could not see any. It must be hidden behind the gas tank. I am fairly certain the tank has been replaced before.

There was not power at the connector by the tail lights but there was power at the connector for the switch on the transmission. I changed the fuse and everything is good now.

The fuse looks new and tests good. Not sure what happened but I do have one fuse slot that only has 1 side of the prong due to corrosion from the previously leaking clutch master. Not looking forward to pulling the fuse block and repairing it, however it needs to get done.

Check the connection and it was like new inside with no corrosion. The fuse tested good but I swapped it out any way and it my lights are working now. Still strange that there was power at the switch but they still didn't work until I changed the good fuse with another good fuse. I must have corrosion in my fuse block. I have new terminals to rebuild the fuse block but have been putting it off. That will be the next project I need to tackle. Thanks for the help.