Eagle_SX4

It looks like the oxygen sensor wouldn't be reading the back 3 cylinders. Which also might cause some issues.

Got the shims I ordered in today. They are junk and won't be getting installed on my truck. I should have just ordered from Tom wood's but I wanted to save a few dollars. I ordered them from Iron Rock Off-road. Here are some pics of what I received. As you can see they aren't the same angle, the same height, and they aren't flat. I emailed them with the attached pictures and am waiting to here back.

Other news serval months ago I found a set of 2 door XJ buckets in the junkyard and after getting the brackets from @krustyballer16 decided to try and put one in the driver's side and see if I liked it better than the Dakota seats. (Note the side bolster cushions are removed because I was trying to fix the broken cable for the tilt mechanism.) Surprisingly it sits higher than the Dakota seats I put in. I narrowed the Dakota seat tracks 5 inches on the drivers side to get them as low as I could. Still wish they were about an inch lower but it's not possible without cutting up the seat. I am going to keep the Dakota seats for now.

After doing some light wheeling 2 weeks ago, I was flexed out and my rear tire was rubbing the frame. Rubbed right through the paint. Yet more evidence my truck was once medium metallic blue. After doing some research here on comanche club, several people are running the Spidertrax hub centric 1.25" spacers. Everyone had good things to say about them so I ordered some and got them installed today. Now the rear wheels fit the fender flares just as well as the front.

Didn't know if this is what you are looking for but it might work. Dorman part #785-430. It is a 3/8 barbed elbow to 1/4 pipe thread. Look up barbed fuel hose connections lots of options with threads. Both straight and elbows.

Could be the gauge itself. Mine was always reading low as well. I recently swapped out my cluster for a old blue style with the tach and my volt gauge works properly now. Maybe pull the cluster and figure out what wires are for the volt gauge and test them at the connection. If you have a bad ground your multi meter will read the same as the gauge. If your gauge is bad you will find full voltage at the plug.

Found it on eBay but I don't want to spend that much right now. Figured someone might be able to use it. https://www.ebay.com/itm/375387806065?itmmeta=01HW637V1QNDV6TTRV21KEM6F5&hash=item5766db5971:g:4IkAAOSwgzNmJXXW&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAABIOAW858bZY04QETcM0oenOF6T%2FP%2FUqLvLnhoBsa5lwE5DqojBIVPaL4zQUUgYlsGlMptOvzsexMcIIprWiqs6GRndGjxcIbBLnQC3vi9G7uUeMPvt1%2BM6qXk73l9SvfsTOEbXjXPH4CyWfwtoATWbkCmxqTIBooSS8Vq099UCfi3v7JNb7L%2FYdJffbphya00ziD2q4GlEbvBwwd4jgn8M0V%2B92WXgJ6zPVTO0qP1jabnNrwdgnmcyYxed4e74RTh2ZyOWGhN9bhWpsT%2FP%2BxRGHqiZivqsew0dHngZSTXv7970n%2BlcAbkG9amB1JGSE8pCc%2FoLp5LWw1o0GGqjzr%2BiN5j4A9%2BIUy6EhLq%2FmnqVGCDCPxMFUe5wz38s%2BxDvJBBTg%3D%3D|tkp%3ABFBM-LCfw-Fj

Here is a pic of the driveshaft installed after it was shortened. A lot more compression available. There are 3 inches of splines on the transfer case out put shaft. Plenty of room for compression and extension.

I put the slip yoke on the transfer and left the u joint off the pinion. Then I pulled the yoke away from the transfer case so that it would have 1 inch of compression and measured from the center of the cap on the yoke to the flat on the pinion and got 48 inches. I took my driveshaft in today and had it shortened to 48 inches. The shop was way faster than I thought they would be. Only took them 3 hours to get it done. My truck does drive better now but it still shakes a bit. I am going to get some pinion shims ordered and get them installed. I also did drive around in 4 high with the rear shaft removed and my issues were gone so one problem fixed and on to the next one.

Found this and after I measured my drive shaft I need it shortened about 3/4 of an inch. My driveshaft measures 48 3/4. I need it to be 48. There must be a length difference between the new and old style transfer cases. Can any one confirm this? I am pretty sure it is the original driveshaft and axle. The previous owner swapped in an AX15. I swapped in a new style NP242 from the original NP231. I didn't have a picture right now but the wheel is pretty close to center of the wheel well. Maybe just a hair towards the front.

Yeah I am going to get both 2 and 4 degree shims and see which works better while driving I think 2 might be best. While under load the pinion rolls down and then would be lined up (in theory anyway). I am actually only about an hour away from Tom Wood's but they are really busy right now. They are only making new shafts and aren't taking any outside work right now. I found a shop closer to me that can shorten it for me and if that doesn't work then I will order a shaft from Tom wood's.

My driveshaft is definitely to long. I jacked up the truck with some jack stands under the frame and let the rear axle drop and the drive shaft bottomed out on the transfer case. I called Tom Wood's driveshafts and they said there should be 1 inch of compression at ride height. So I will need to get my shaft shortened or get a new one made. I also need to shim my pinion down to get the angles closer to parallel. Right now the pinion is 4 degrees above the output shaft.

Both are true here is a pic

I am pretty sure Eaton made the window and door lock switches. You can see the logo embossed on the switch.

I changed the engine mounts last year. Trans mount is in good condition. Brand new General Springs leafs with new bushings last spring. This problem is not related to the tires because it happens with my studded snow tires or my summer tires. Shocks are brand new Bilstein 5100's.

This problem is in my Comanche. I think it might have more to do with the driveshaft length than the pinion angle.

Maybe some more info would help. Most of the driving I do I never get above 60 mph and never have any issues up to 60 mph. I have to drive 45 minutes away to reach the freeway which is when I start to have issues. This problem only happens when I am doing 70+mph. Problems start when doing 70+mph down the freeway and hitting a bump. The u-joints in my rear driveshaft bind up and cause the entire drivetrain to shake back and forth violently. My steering wheel does not shake but the transmission shifter flops back and forth. It doesn't stop till I pull on to the shoulder and down to about 10 mph then it is fine again until I hit another bump at 70 mph. Hitting bumps below 60 nothing happens. I replaced my u-joints last summer both front and rear and checked them today and no signs of wear or binding on any of the u-joints. Everything move freely. I thought my issues where fixed when I shortened my Chevy drop shackles which did help some and why I am looking to get some leaf spring shims to help even more. Another thing that might be an issue is driveshaft length. How much travel should the slip yoke have on the transfer case? I only have about 3/8 inch of compression before it bottoms out. My driveshaft is 48.5 inches center of cap to center of cap. Which as far as I can find is correct for an AX15 and Dana 44 rear axle. Fully seated in the pinion. Bottomed out of the transfer case. Also I did remove my front driveshaft and drove on the freeway and the issue was still there.

I have been having some vibrations from what I think is the incorrect pinon angle. According to this thread on driveline angle the rear pinon should be about 1-2 degrees down of what the transfer case output is at. I have measured the angles on both my transfer case output shaft and rear pinion. According the the angles it looks like my pinion is about 4 degrees above the transfer case. My question is will a 5 or 6 degree shim work better?

Here are some pics of an '84 I used to have

Got a '94 Cherokee fuel pump sending unit from the junkyard and got a Deatschwerks DW200 pump mounted on it with no modifications. I will be installing it on Saturday.

I could not stand the sound of the rotary vane pump any more so I got a Deatschwerks DW200 pump. I was lucky enough to find a '94 Cherokee in the local junkyard that still had its sending unit assembly. The DW200 replaced the stock turbine pump with no modifications. (Didn't check the fuel pump connector yet but the new pump came with a new one). This will be going in my Eagle with a Cherokee tank.It also has a rubber isolator for the pump to sit on.

Okay

This might be my issue if I remember correctly the harness I have is out of a 93 or 94 Cherokee. I will look into it some more.

Just checked my codes again and I got different results. 12 35 73 35 41 55 VID_20240406_180611173~4.mp4 I don't see 73 as a code option. Yes the C.E.L. is on while driving. Also here is a pic of the barcode on my computer I am fairly certain it is out a wrecked Wrangler. All the mounting tabs for the computer are broken off. Also the intake manifold had a power steering delete pulley on it and that was only an option on the Wranglers.

@gogmorgoHere is a video of the 12, 36 and 33 codes. My phone died after that and didn't get the 41 and 55 on video. VID_20240405_105722504~3.mp4