Eagle_SX4

Recently I noticed my back up lights are not working. I have tested the switch on the transmission and it functions properly. There is voltage getting to the switch. I don't have voltage at the reverse bulbs. The brake lights and turn signals work fine. One odd thing is that when I pulled the right rear tail light out it is clear someone has done something with the ground there as is was cut and spliced back together. Which fell apart when I pulled the light out. Crazy thing is my fuel pump still runs even with that ground disconnected. I don't think that should happen. I got a NOS wire diagram off eBay for the 87 Comanche. The problem is the reverse light circuit is not included in the diagrams. The index says it should be at location W-6 but that location has the power seat diagram. I also have a 91 service manual but the diagram for that is only applicable to the Cherokee. Does anyone have a diagram for the reverse lights?

It does have stroker in it there was a 4.6 liter badge on the tailgate. It looked like it might have a Ford 8.8 rear axle with disc brakes. It is definitely a 97+Cherokee with a short bed Comanche frame grafted to the back. It appears very well done. The work that went in to the rear doors and tail light housings are not visible.

Just spotted today the best and only Crew-manche I have seen. It is on 35's with a spring over lift in the back

Awesome I have a cable shifter in my Comanche and it works well. Now I might have to try and get a cable set up in my Eagle for the low range. What cable kit did you use?

Looks fantastic! I would be very interested to see how you got that to work. Looks like the shifter is on the wrong side of the transfer case. When I put the shifter in mine for the low range I kept it on the driver's side of the transmission shifter.

Ordered an AMC/Jeep/Renault buyer guide on eBay and found an cool snippet about the Comanche before it was released. Here is the front cover And the back cover about the Comanche

Just listed my bench seat for sale if any one is interested.

Got the seat welded back together and then plated top and bottom. It won't break in that spot again.

Got the front gears put in today. I am going to get my front driveshaft balanced tomorrow and then I will test them out

Well my seat broke again. I am going to weld it back together tomorrow. With some reinforcements.

Got the 4.10 rear axle gears installed with the new Truetrac diff. It is much better to drive than the 3.07 gears. I pulled the front driveshaft for now untill I have time to install the front gears.

Pulled the 3.07 gears out of the rear axle today. 4.10's going in tomorrow. The front axle will be next week.

Got the fuel pump swapped out yesterday. I am amazed at how much quieter it is. The car runs great. Still need to sort out the sending unit as the Eagle gauge has a different ohm reading than the Cherokee. But it still reads the right direction. Half tank in the gauge is actually empty.

The triangle threads are supposed to be there. It is a "lock bolt". Like a lock nut, but for bolts usually into blind holes.

That might be the best solution but I couldn't find the add-a-leaf on BDS's website could you share a link?

I used some Iron Rock Off-road full length add a leafs for a XJ on my Eagle and was happy with them. I saw they have a 5.5 inch add a leaf that might work for what you want here is the link https://www.ironrockoffroad.com/product/iro-55-leaf-spring-add-a-leaf.html

The high output sending unit I tested was .5 ohms full and 108 ohms empty. It came out of a 94 XJ.

Here is the section from the 91 service manual on the steering column assembly. 1991 Steering Column assembly.pdf

@89 MJTook some pictures but it is hard to see because it is so tight in there.

Here is a pick of my internal slave bell housing so you can see all the holes. If I remember correctly the 4 larger upper holes are the only bolts holding the bell housing to the engine. Other than the starter and CPS I don't remember pulling any other bolts/screws out to get my transmission out.

Your welcome. The rest of the exhaust follows the original eagle routing I tried to use an XJ tail pipe on the passenger side but you would need to move brake lines and reroute the stock fuel line.

Have you removed the shift boots to see if your shifter is hitting the floor? Lifting the front of the engine up with a jack and a 2x4 under the oil pan would help tilt the transmission down to help it come out better. On the 4.0 liter the engine mounts are behind center of the block. When you remove the transmission with an unsupported engine it wants to tilt forward. Watch the clearance of the fan and the radiator. To much tilt and you could poke a hole in your radiator.

The XJ header does fit the Eagle. It is further away from the engine block than the Eagles is. This creates 2 problems. 1st the diff hanger that bolts to the engine block is directly in the path of the header. 2nd the exhaust moves to the outside of the slave cylinder and you need to make a new heat shield or you will melt the rubber seals inside of it.(personal experience on that one). As for the diff hanger you can just cut it up and weld it back together with a curved middle section that will then clear the exhaust. I will get some pictures of mine tomorrow.

Got the Tom Wood's shims installed today. They came with new pins. Just had to grind the heads down a bit to fit in to the perch. Pinion angle is much better. Went from 4.5 degrees above the transfer case output to only 1.3(with a 3 degree shim). If I need to I can lower my transfer case by finding a proper AX15 cross member. I think it is still the same one that was in the truck when it had the puegeot transmission in it. I know that the AX15 cross members have a lower mount point that is level with the center seem of the cross member. I might just cut this up and weld it back together if I can't find an AX15 one. Doing so would drop the transfer case down 1 degree. I unbolted the cross member and lowered it down to find out out how much the angle would change. Time will tell if this has helped or not. I am still thinking the longer shackles I have are also playing into my issues as well. That might be the next thing I change.

I would check to make sure your bulb sockets are not corroded. I had some issues with my indicators because the original front sockets were bad. I cut the old ones off and installed some later year ones from the junkyard and everything was fixed. The 87 front sockets were poorly sealed and it was fixed it later years.