Eagle_SX4

I had the same thing happen when I put mine back together I forgot to put this piece back in. Had to reopen the case to install it. That part sits in the tail housing on the end of the cluster gear shaft. It is called the oil filter although it acts more like a funnel to help lubricate the end of the shaft. Very important piece. It should definitely be put back in. Part #50 in the diagram

I bought my hose from advance adapters. It is a -3AN stainless line with adapters on both ends. It was about $140 total. If you go that route you would be able to keep the hose and just change the adapter when you go to an external slave.

I got the rear window trim reinstalled without removing the window. I used a bent o ring tool to help get the inner lip behind the window frame.

I also changed to the same clutch master. It is working great. I am running the external slave AX15.

Check your manifold bolts. They like to loosen up. It is probably the most common cause of high idle issues.

Used my fingers to peel it out of the groove. It was pretty easy the corners were a little harder. The trick will be putting it back in with out taking the window out.

The MJ

The wait is over the cab is painted!! Next will be the doors.

Glad to hear good things about the hella h4 housings. I just got a set and they will be installed soon.

99% complete It is missing the alternator side nut.

Try a leak down test. Basically you use an adapter that threads into the spark plug hole that allows you to hook up an air hose to pressurize the cylinders. Then you find where the air is escaping. One of 4 places; intake (bad valve), exhaust (bad valve), crankcase (piston problems), or radiator (bad head gasket). If you buy a leak down tester some have gauges where you can check the pressure and watch what is is doing. Some are just the air hose to spark plug adapters. Edit: both valves need to be closed to get good results

To start this off a few months ago when I changed all the rotors/pads and drums/shoes/cylinders. I ran into an issue bleeding the brakes. Following the procedure from the manual of bleeding the rear brakes then the fronts then opening the fronts to force the shuttle valve to move to bleed the emergency bypass line. I could never get the shuttle valve to move. I did remove the switch from the valve and tested its functionality and with it removed I could turn on and off the brake light on the dash. Proving that the shuttle was not moving even with both front caliper bleeders opened. I do know that my height valve functions as intended with the wheels off the ground I moved the lever to different positions simulating a full bed and and empty bed. The required pressure on the brake pedal to lock up the wheels did change. Another strange thing was happening. This may or may not be related to the distribution valve. I had rear brake pressure when the fronts were hooked up but not when the front bleeders were open. Meaning that I would have no brakes if something were to happen the front brakes. This is the main reason I am looking in to rebuilding/cleaning the distribution block. I am thinking about rebuilding it. Has anyone replaced the o-rings inside of the valve? I know the service manual says to not attempt a rebuild. They have not been available for a long time and everyone seems to have a different opinion on replacement/deletion of the height valve and distrubution valve. From the pictures shared by @Eagle it looks like it would be easy. You would just need to find the correct size and type of o-rings. From my limited research it looks like EPDM would be the correct material. I am just trying to figure out the mystery surrounding the proportioning valve.

Those parts are for the factory shifter not the short throw shifter you have. The smaller one that goes on tip of the shifter might be the same but I don't know for sure.

I found a NOS ceramic Bosch 12009 on eBay and that is what I am running now. It will be interesting to see how this new design works.

This might help. Not a template but a good place to start.

I don't know for sure what the 84-96 mirrors are but the 97+ mirrors use 1/4-20 threads.

Keep up the good work the engine bay looks amazing.

Finally got around to mounting my modified Dodge Challenger mirror (driver's side) on my car. The passenger side is next. It took some cutting to change the angle at which they mount a steel plate and 2 tubes of JB weld steel stick epoxy.

Finally making progress on the cab. Got it primed today. Will be doing color next weekend.

I am actually working on a version that just has the Eagle logo on it.

Wishing the turbines I have on my Eagle looked that good. Great job on the painting and polishing.

I didn't have any pics of the brackets I made to fit the seats. But I had to move the inner slider out about 5 inches just like you did. With some custom brackets. Here they are installed in my truck.

I have bought some aftermarket seat belts and they work great. Mounting the retractor is the hardest part. You just need to make a bracket with 2 holes to match the original mounting location. See this post for more info. The ones I got were total length of 133" and they are to long. I have seen some that are 110" and would work much better. Here is a link. I will probably buy some of these in the near future. https://www.seatbeltplanet.com/i-30500018-3-point-lap-shoulder-retractable-seat-belt-all-metal-push-button-buckle.html?q= Bonus is they look like the Chrysler era jeep seat belts and are brand new.

Good job on the seats. I did something similar when I put Dakota seats in mine.