Eagle_SX4

I got some JKS shackles put on the back and it rides great. Still wanting a little more lift. Might use the main leaf of my old springs as an add-a-leaf

I think it is a 5/16-18 thread not sure on the length

I had the same issue I just the cable off close to block and removed the stud. Then replaced the cable and used a bolt instead of a stud.

Any XJ Cherokee with the 242 transfer case will have the single piece shafts. Saw an 87 XJ Wagoneer with the 242 and non cad axle in a junkyard once.

Was it leaking while sitting on flat ground or just after a turn? The roll-over valve won't leak if it is just sitting (on level ground) they are the highest part on the tank. The most likely suspect is the o-ring on the sending unit.

Here is what I have. These are for the inside of the doors. After finding these it occurred to me that you might be looking for the exterior mirror plates since you have the tow mirrors. I don't have any of those.

I've got a set I will find them tonight and get a pic. They are black.

I still think it is the battery. If you can drive it to your nearest parts store they should be able to test the battery, alternator and starter to help you diagnose the problem.

You can buy the metal quick connect ends and use some fuel injection hose clamps and you are good to go. Dorman 800-121 3/8 connection. Dorman 800-120 5/16 connection. Edit: I used those for the high output 4.0 in my Eagle. I don't know if the HO and Renix fuel rails have the same fittings.

If it turns over slow the battery is probably dead. If it is low enough none of the sensors will get the proper voltage to give a good reading. Causing all of the issues you have listed. Test your battery and report your findings. You could even jump start it with jumpers cables to a running car and see if that helps.

Also here is a write up on the subject.

Bench seat sliders are only the outside slider on both the driver and passenger side. You would need to pull some straight sliders out of a Cherokee for it to be a complete swap.

Cold weather really tests the battery. It may be dead even if it was charged over night. If you have a multimeter you can check the battery voltage before and while cranking. I have had batteries that checked good with no load and drop from 12 volts down to 1-2 volts when cranking. Definitely worth a quick check. You will need someone to help you with this and hold the test leads on the battery when trying to start the engine and watching the multimeter.

Mini Comanches are always fun. Here is mine. A Traxxas trx4 with the proline Comanche body. Wheelbase is 12.75 inches.

This might help.

Finally got around to putting the rear most bolts in the brackets. I used 1/2-13 grade 8 bolts and flange head nuts. If you flip the nut around and put the hex inside the frame it takes place of the specialty nut by the alternator. It tightened up well but was definitely a pain having no hex to put a wrench on. Will definitely be even harder to remove once it is rusted but it is secure for now.

Very nice. Judging by the roof it looks like it is a 2 door XJ from the doors forward, grafted on to the b pillar back of a Comanche. Also the antenna hole has been filled in. 1997+ XJ tail lights.

Not sure you would need to call them. Did you search for manual or automatic columns? The only difference is the lever to push when the key is shut off. Both should have the same wiper switch. From my search there are more manual transmission not tilt delay columns than the automatic versions.

You don't need any special tools to tighten the pins/rivets just a center punch and a hammer. If the teeth are worn out the only way I can see of fixing them is to weld over them and hand file new teeth. That would require full dissembly of the mechanism as described in

Sounds like it could be your ignition switch. It is located down towards your feet bolted to the steering column.

Look up a steering column on car-part.com I found several listed that are the non tilt delay columns for about $95 each. I searched for 87 jeep Cherokee steering column and selected the non tilt delay options.

I have thought about using a retrosound radio. But haven't gotten on yet. They seem to mostly do radios for cars older than the Comanche but I think it would be a good option. https://www.retromanufacturing.com/

That sucks, is there not a fuel test port on the 2.5 fuel rail? I know that you can get replacement fuel line ends that you could use to make a removable inline fuel pressure tester.

It comes down to pascals law. Basically if you start at a high pressure through an orifice (the fuel injector)but slowly turn down the volume the output will look the same but volume is reduced. (Saw this explained in an old episode of Numbers on CBS season 2 episode 11. I'm not actually good with physics).

To me this sounds like a fuel pump problem I had similar symptoms when the electric fuel pump went out in my Eagle. (It was carbureted at the time). The fuel pump was running but not enough to keep up with the demand of the engine. In order to get it to a place I could fix it I had shut the engine off long enough to let the fuel pump fill the bowl back up then drove till it died again and repeated until I got off the road. Definitely find a way to check for fuel pressure. Harbor freight sells a fuel injection service kit with fittings to test either a service port or plumb in inline with rubber hose. https://www.harborfreight.com/basic-fuel-injection-service-kit-64939.html