Eagle_SX4

Also my theory on why the early Wagoneer front jeep badge was on the side. I think because it was the luxury version XJ they copied the AMC Eagle's badge location as the Eagles were also marketed as luxury vehicles. Just a guess.

@eaglescout526 you are correct the above wagoneer probably had the header panel swapped. Here are some pics of the brochure I have. Not sure what year it is. Pretty sure it is 85-86. Front cover Full collection of AMC Jeep and Renault vehicles Wagoneer Back cover Also interesting is I found a blurp about System Sentry. On the Renault page.

Pretty sure it is factory. I have a brochure with a wagoneer with that header panel. I will get a picture in a few hours.

You Seems like it is common for those spot weld cutters to loose teeth. Harbor freight sells spot weld cutters. They have worked well for me. https://www.harborfreight.com/38-in-double-sided-rotary-spot-weld-cutter-63657.html

Here are some pictures of the set up I used to paint the doors. I used a worx portable worktable but this design would work with any saw horse. You just need a 1/2" lag bolt drilled into a board mounted on each side of the saw horse. Then cut the head off and use it as the pivot for the doors. As for the doors I used some of the existing holes and used some 1/4" lag bolts to attach some 2x4 boards. I drilled a 1/2" hole in them for the pivot. The extra blocks are just for support.

@acfortierYou may have already read this but here is a thread on how to read the codes and what they mean.

That appears to be the right one but I ordered mine directly from MTS and it was about $50 cheaper 3 years ago. https://www.mtscompany.com/sendingunits.htm You just need to email them. They don't take orders on their website.

Yes I can take pictures of my door mounting setup tomorrow. Thanks it has been a lot more work than I first thought.

Well I got the doors painted today. But I won't be able to paint anything else this year. It will be to cold starting next week. I will assemble the doors tomorrow and get them back on the truck. I built a rotisserie for the doors that allowed me to paint them both at the same time. It worked really well.

As for grease fittings LockNLube has a bunch of different adapters for your grease gun to fit into tight spots. https://locknlube.com/collections/quick-connect-adapters I have the push on 90 degree adapter. It can work if the grease fittings are clean but if they are plugged with old grease it doesn't work very well.

Not a big surprise on the fuel pump. Those rotary vane pumps are hit or miss. I replaced 2 in my Eagle before I switched to the newer turbine style.

This is what I thought. I will check at the junkyard first before spending $50 just to get one gasket.

Does anyone know where I can get new door mirror gaskets? #3 in the pic. This is the only diagram I can find that separates the gasket from the mirror. (screenshot from moparpartsgiant.com for 94 Cherokee). The part number is not listed. The only way I can see to get a new gasket is by ordering a set of aftermarket mirrors. If they aren't available new I will try to find some at the local junkyard.

Thanks it is a lot more work than I anticipated but it is turning out well. I think I am going to run out of warm weather before I can get the bed painted might have to wait till spring.

Staring to look good with the new paint. I got the doors gutted today in preparation for paint, hopefully on Saturday.

Is that some chrome around the rear window trim? What is going on with the grille only having 2 of the 10 slots chromed?

I agree the door cards say wagoneer on them. I thought the early trucks had the 4x4 emblem on the bed by the tail lights not on the b pillar.

Driving without a front driveshaft won't cause any damage. Doesn't matter what the transfer case is in either. The front output will spin in 4wd but won't harm anything. Just leave all the bolts for the drive shaft out and you will not have any issues.

Front mud flaps installed.

Got the front mud flaps installed.

@jakesmogJust curious what does your rear ride height measure at right now? (Top of axle tube to bottom of frame). Stock should be about 8 inches for a 2wd and 9 inches for 4wd.

I bought the general spring 1280lb spring and was expecting lift but did not get any. It remained stock height of 9 inches from the top of the axle tube to the frame

Thanks. The factory did not extend the blue paint in to the door jams or behind the cab. Just about 2 inches so you could tell when the bed was on the doors were closed. It was easy enough to extend the paint and I think it makes it look more complete.

Well I got the passenger side bracket made. It is stainless and I think it will work well. The outside resembles the factory bracket with a leg that goes over to the body and get held in place by the existing body clip that holds the inner fender liner in place. It is all one piece.

I have had good luck using a 6 point 5/16" 1/4" drive socket with a wobble extension for the front pinion bolts. I think the transfer case side bolts have 1/2" heads and you can use a 1/4" drive socket on those as well. You will just need to rotate the driveshaft to get to all of them.