Eagle_SX4

@NRT_ChrisFound some on eBay https://www.ebay.com/itm/116120172709

https://www.ebay.com/itm/235664073617?epid=25063705920&itmmeta=01J3GE2YDYTNKTNFZYWPB23NNH&hash=item36deac6391:g:L9QAAOSw4phlTRW6&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAAA4IpzrpoE1sCkt4i8kwfPaTnmJfeTbH2ErmrLKiSa%2Fbti4XMO%2Bm5AVDL2qMt%2BJnRHrHf1t2yRz3Xc%2Fgi20Pp9yE%2B6Jl8t2Uv2oNPU1CYuOTy0TUduyA6DsDtDU91jHO439BXX%2FKgNFRCPMsqtNk0v9JwpX5wQGS1ddhwE0fsOgSyDclnQyabCgwx6d1pAuhkwxVw%2FEkcjijoDBE%2FtOwdxbD5qUiav4ZGXBAeFHkYmnq0BsqL%2BnAnqg%2FT36D1qPD%2BAYx54qNggNsyDzDXKL9TCvVsda2FZC80T0D01uvg%2BrfJ5|tkp%3ABk9SR5Dni46cZA

Just for future reference they are called belleville washers.

Started to address the dents in the rear cab corner. Before After I need to remove the bed before I finish it up. Will be pb blasting the bolts every day so that by Friday when I take the bed off hopefully it will go smoothly.

At least it will be easier next time

I think you can just unscrew the hose from the black adapter. I don't think the adapter comes off the lower dash piece.

Drove to the junkyard today. I gassed up before and after just to see what my gas mileage was after the gear change (4.10's). Wow was I surprised when I learned that over my 100 mile journey averaging about 55-60 I got 23.25 mpg. The best I ever got on the same trip with the 3.07's was 19. Didn't get much but there was an interesting Cherokee there. It was an '88 that had '92 Briarwood doors, fenders, dash and center console. Also had 96+ motor swap and 96+ seats with the added floor braces for those seats. Also I found out that there are 3 different wood grain dash bezels. Wagoneer light wood with a matte finish with raised chrome lines around the openings. Briarwood, the same as Wagoneer but darker and no chrome. Country gloss finish with the same color as Briarwood but no raised lines. Now I have all 3. Not sure which one I will put in my truck but it will probably be the Briarwood.

Started sanding the drivers door and cab corner. Bad news is I found a bunch of bondo on the back of the cab. Something hit the cab corner hard. There is damage from about the vents down to the lower body line. However the lower rocker and bed are untouched. A view from inside. Whoever painted it last made a poor attempt to pull it out. I bought some body hammers and spent about 1.5 hours massaging the panel and it is already much smoother than before I still need to get the rest of the bondo off and see just how good I can make this before I paint it.

Recently I held a front flare up to a rear flare and they have the same wheel opening size some modifications would be needed to make it fit. I think it would be easy to trim them to be close enough

Thanks @schardein for the pics and measurements. I will keep a lookout at the junkyards for one. I might try and remove the the alternator and put a new bolt in from the inside with a large grade 8 washer to cover the hole so the nut is on the outside of the frame. That should keep enough clearance for the alternator.

It has been a while since I pulled the brackets off. I am quite sure I grabbed the bolt but I can't find it. Based on the hole size my best guess is probably a metric 12.

Interesting I have been looking on moparpartsgiant.com and any year Cherokee I look at does not depict the special nut for the passenger side. I will just have to make one. Do you know what the proper bolt and thread size is?

I had one more question regarding the installation hardware. Specifically the nut on the passenger side item 33 in the picture. I recall not being able to remove that nut from the Cherokee I pulled the tow hooks off of because it was a sleeve nut that sat flush with the frame so the alternator wouldn't hit it. Is my memory correct? The hole on the inside of the passenger side frame is larger than the outside of the frame which seems to support my recollection. The nut listed for the left is part number 34202656.

Got an original bumper with tow hooks installed. Looks much better than the giant 2x6 rectangle bumper that was on it. Pulled the rusted through ROL lights off and ordered some Hella 450 driving lights.

Awesome thanks for the tips. I got the bolts installed on both sides. I did have to move the steering box slightly to get the nut on. Before I moved the box After I moved the box I also added some tabs I made to keep what ever I use on the hooks in place.

I will, I replaced the steering box last year and it was intact at that point.

Thanks for the replies @eaglescout526 and @fiatslug87 I guess I will try and get a nut up in there. Might have to loosen the steering box and remove the skid plate

About a year ago I got some factory tow hooks and bumper mounts. I pulled the tow hooks off and repainted them to put them on my truck. I installed the bumper brackets and bumper. I ran into an issue when I tried to bolt the tow hook braces up the frame. The passenger side clears just fine. The driver side bolt goes right under the steering box and there is not enough room to get a nut under it. Does any one have the factory tow hooks and can look to see what bolt/nut combination was used to clear the steering box?

Just found something else that changed between 87 and 88. The hoods are different. What changed was the side hood bumpers. They moved forward about 4 inches. I found this out by puting 97+ fenders on my 87 and the side bumps don't line up with the chamfer on the hood. Looking through the photos that are posted it looks like before 87 they were back about center of the hood and 88 and forward they are at about the front third of the hood. Here I have circled the difference. 87 88 Also the picture labeled 1990 is actually an late 87 based on those hood bumpers and side mount prop rod

Yes and the antenna has male threads on it versus the pre 97 which had female threads on it. I have part of the antenna base that was on the fender when I bought it but none of the parts interchange with the old style. I am looking to get a complete base with the wire uncut.

I did some more digging and found it is called an antenna base. The part number is Mopar 56038505AB and has been discontinued.

I am trying to find a 97+ Cherokee antenna mount and wire. They don't seem to be available new and the local junkyards don't have any 97+ Cherokees.

You might want to consider putting in a new oil pump while it is on the stand. Also a new rear main. Just for peace of mind. I know first hand how difficult it is to pull the oil pan off that engine while it is in the car.

Got the front fenders bolted on today. All but 1 bolt lined up after I made some brackets to attach the front of the fenders to the unibody. I did get the old flares on after the picture was taken. Still lots of work before it is all the same color.

I had to make fuel lines for my Eagle when I put the 4.0 in that and this is what I used on the fuel rail return side. https://www.autozone.com/fuel-systems/fuel-line-repair/p/dorman-oe-solutions-5-16in-steel-body-fuel-line-connector/238632_0_0 They also make one in 3/8 size for the pressure side