Eagle_SX4

Check this for adjustment procedure.

This might help.

ST fluctuates based on throttle input any where from 80-150 but stays about 120 when cruising at 30 TPS. LT is at 105.

The R.E.M. shows it stays in closed loop while it misfires. It is worse when the engine is cold than when hot.

I don't think your fuel pump is dead. That gauge is reading 28 psi not 23. Cycling the ignition will get the pump to come on only after sitting for a few minutes. Fuel pressure should be checked with the engine running. 31 psi with the vacuum hooked up to the fuel pressure regulator and 39 with the vacuum line removed.

My understanding is that screw is not an idle adjustment screw. It is a throttle blade stop screw. It should be adjusted until the throttle blade is fully closed but not scratching the walls of the throttle body. The IAC is what controls the idle speed.

It may be that your IAC (idle air control) valve is stuck fully extended. Have you removed and cleaned it? Cruiser did a good write up on how to.

I am having a strange misfire at part throttle. Between 30-35 position reading on my TPS from my R.E.M. It doesn't happen while idling or any position of the throttle above or below 30-35. I can see my knock sensor reading spike when it happens but there are not any codes or other anomalies in all the read outs that would point to a source of the problem. I have swapped out my TPS with a spare I had and set it properly with no change. I have also changed my spark plugs distributor cap/rotor. I am heading towards it being an ignition problem maybe the coil, ignition control module or distributor stator pickup. There is an I.S. note about the distributor stator going out (I think it is 36e). Which is probably the next thing I will change out. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

@boxyjeep

I have a 31x10.5x15 spare under my long bed. It fits great. (I am not sure how it would fit under a short bed). The factory cable lifts the tire just fine. I did add a ratchet strap for extra security. Jeep Liberty's had 16 inch steel rims that will bolt right up and have the same back spacing as the MJ wheels.

The issue might be your HVAC blend door not moving. I haven't looked into how the HVAC controls work but I recommend that as the next step.

If the hoses to your heater core are hot then it is open allowing hot coolant into the heater core. If the hoses are cold then it is closed and you will not get any heat into the cab.

It is located on one of the hoses coming from the heater core. It looks like this.

Yes my heater gets very hot. Have you checked the temperature of your heater core hoses and upper radiator hose by touching them? They should feel about the same temp. If not it could be the heater control valve which shuts off the flow of coolant into the heater core when it's not being used.

That is about where my gauge is all the time. I would get an infrared thermometer and check the temp with that to verify your engine is actually running cold. Even though my gauge reads low my thermostat housing and engine block reach ~ 200 degrees regularly.

Got a Spicer 706112x cover in for my 44. ($48 shipped from Rock Auto) It is 2.5x thicker than the one I pulled off. New cover measured 5/32" (.160) and the old one was 1/16 (.060). Fill plugs are in the same spot. Side by side New on top of old. Thanks @neohic for the part number.

That is if they are filling the block through the temp sending unit which is at the back of the engine. There is no jacking required when filling from the front because it is already the highest point.

I have found the best way to make sure the engine block is all filled up is to remove the smaller hose from the thermostat housing and fill from there. Filling from there will bypass the thermostat, filling the block completely.

Which part is the check valve? 15?

Quadratec sells a wheel very similar that will also fit the XJ/MJ. https://www.quadratec.com/p/quadratec/rubicon-xtreme-wheel-wrangler-yj-tj

Go to your local parts store and find some body clips you like and then drill the holes in your trim panel and seat base to the right size. Then you will be able replace the them with readily available clips. Most parts stores have a wide selection down one of the isles usually on a revolving rack.

I have not gotten around to it yet.

It looks like you are correct with those wheels. There was a very similar wheel that was used on the Jeep Liberty in 05-07. And they would bolt on and have the same backspacing as the factory XJ/MJ wheels. 16x7 with 5x4.5 bolt pattern http://wheelsamerica.com/products/jeep-liberty-2005-2006-16-oem-wheel-rim-3

If you search on car-part.com you can see all the junkyards that have inventoried their yards. If you search for a Cherokee instrument cluster you will get more results also try searching for speedometer of tachometer that might also help with the search. You would want one from 87-90.

I got the 1250lb springs expecting to get lift and was very disappointed not to get any lift. After they settled they were about 1 inch lower than stock. I have since added an extra leaf and some slightly longer shackles only to see about .5 above stock height. My experience says hope for lift but don't expect it. Someone said they may have changed the design because so many were reporting lift on a spring that was supposed to be a stock replacement. Not sure what your truck is but height also may vary based on short or long bed. Long beds have some extra weight and won't see as much lift as the same springs on a short bed.