Eagle_SX4

Thanks

Picked up a used Warn M8000 winch and got it installed in my new bumper. Mounted the solenoid box under the hood. Got it wired up and running. Also replaced the steel cable with synthetic line. The only thing I don't like very much is how close the wires are to the mechanical fan. I need to make something to go over those wires. The bumper will be powder coated soon.

Yes it will fit those are about the same dimensions as mine.

I don't have much experience with engine building. However it would help to find out which bearing(s) is causing the issue. Loosen all the caps and then torque one cap at a time and check rotation and figure out if it is just one bearing causing the issue or all of them.

I see that there are a few different models of needle scalers at Harbor freight which one did you get? It looks like it worked very well.

I have an external slave AX15 that I bled using the slave cylinder and it worked quite well. My slave cylinder doesn't have a bleed screw so I had to do it this way. I followed the directions as indicated. I did not have any special tools I just used push rod. When bleeding the system this way just make sure to not fully depress or release the pushrod and just cycle it in and out until there are no more bubbles coming up into the reservoir. (You may need someone to watch the reservoir). It is super easy and this is how I will bleed every external slave cylinder going forward.

Thanks for the replies. I will need to find a different solution for the coolant bottle.

Yes it is but the problem is where the fill neck is. I have looked at pics of both the 97+ bottles and the 2.5 coolant bottle and it looks like they might interfere with one another. 88 2.5 99 4.0 Borrowed the pics from the engine bay reference thread.

I am thinking of converting to the open cooling system and would like to use the renix 2.5 coolant bottle. Does any one know if it will fit with a 97+ washer bottle?

I wish mine was that light. My long bed rolled across the scales at the scrapyard at 4,100lbs with an empty bed. I might have 100lbs of junk in the toolbox but still can't figure out why it weighs so much.

Did you get a new starter or a rebuilt one? Rebuilt starters and alternators are always hit or miss. I have put 5 rebuilt alternators on my Eagle in the last year. The only good thing about that is they were warrantied every time. I also have a rebuilt starter on it and have warrantied it out 3 times. One time the starter only lasted a few weeks. If you can try to find a new one with a warranty. I would get one from a parts store so that you can deal with the warranty in person.

It should be just fine. I ran some carb fuel hose on my car rated at only 50 psi for a while before I realized my mistake and got some fuel injection hose. The hose I am using is Gates Barricade MPI Fuel Line hose in both 3/8 and 5/16. It is also rated at 225 PSI. It has a rating of SAE 30R14 T2. I have not had any issues with it. Just make sure your hose clamps are tight.

Just a pic of where the back seat cover attaches to the bottom of the back. Like was shown here.

I don't think it was cost of manufacturing because the 16 gallon actually used longer pipes to limit the capacity vs the 23 that used shorter ones. I think AMC just did it to have another option they could make more money from. I think the bottom line is AMC could charge more for something that actually cost less to make.

It is news to me as well that not all covers are interchangeable. I have a set of tan seats that are same as your maroon seats. I also have some 4 door XJ bolstered seats that have the same lower cover design as the folding seats. What year was the XJ you got those black covers from? It may be that early on the folding seats and non folding seats had different covers. Black seats are very rare you will have a very hard time finding another set of covers. That pattern was only used by AMC. Chrysler switched to something else. I would take them and the seat frames to an upholstery shop and see if they can modify them to work correctly. I saw @89 MJ posted recently about some non bolstered navy blue XJ seats. Maybe you could take some pics of those seats and see if they are the same as the black or maroon ones above.

I am running an auto transmission crossmember with the AX15. The only mod I did to it was to slot the holes where the transmission mount sits. It lifts the transfer case up slightly and it is closer to the floor but nothing hits. If you have a welder you could just modify you original one to fit properly. *You may need to shim your rear axle to get the proper pinion angle*

This pic is straight from AutoZone. It does show the hole. You just have to look close, it is on the left side of the sticker close to the wires.

I remember when I pulled some handles off a 94 XJ in the junkyard it did not have gaskets on any of the handles (I pulled all 4). I don't know if the gaskets were only on the early XJ/MJ's or if the one in the junkyard just didn't have any gaskets. Also if you want to make sure no water gets in through the door handles. The handles I pulled off the 94 XJ had o-ring seals around the push buttons. My 87 handles did not have the o-rings. I also found out that both front and rear XJ door handles are the same. So you could end up with 2 sets off one XJ.

I am looking to find a medium blue 3 spoke vinyl steering wheel. I found one on ebay but it looks terrible. I would like one that is not discolored. I can trade for the grey 3 spoke that I currently have installed.

On Ebay.

Got a set of factory mud flaps put on the back.

Pull your brake pads out and check them over. You may have a rock or dirt stuck in the pads. Also pull your rotors and look on the inside surface make sure everything is nice and smooth.

The seat back is only 2 bolts one on each side. It very easy to to remove. If I remember correctly they are T45 bolts. They are hidden under the side covers.

They fit both the Comanche and Cherokee. The Cherokee will get more lift from them than a Comanche due to factory shackle length.

If you are talking about the core4x4 adjustable shackles. I wouldn't run them. I don't like the idea of having threads used as an adjustment on a shackle. The lock nuts will probably loosen when flexed and then it probably won't ride well after. I recommend the JKS shackles. I have been very happy with them on my truck. However they are about 1 inch longer than factory shackles. You can also get OEM style XJ Cherokee shackles brand new. Those would also be a good option. Especially since you want to lower it a little. Also would be the cheapest option.