Eagle_SX4

Look down in the distributor hole and check the gear on the cam shaft. If it is worn out it will just eat your new distributor gear even worse than the old one.

I had my cam shaft eat my distributor gear. It could be that but I have not found any other instances of that happening so it is a real long shot. This is what my distributor gear looked like.

As far as I know the only thing the CPS does is tell the computer where the engine is at in the rotation. It does not give any signal to the tachometer. The tachometer runs off the pulses from the coil. It just happens to go through the ICM first. As you can see in this pic the sync signal (CPS) only goes to the ECU it shares a ground with the ICM but no information is sent to the CPS from the ICM.

Thanks, is it attached to the lower dash panel?

I am going to put an amp in my truck and trying to figure out the best place for it. I have a manual transmission and thought maybe I could put the amp where the Auto Transmission computer is supposed to go. I just have no idea where it is supposed to be. Any pics or info would be great.

The TBI (throttle body injection) was introduced in 1987. So if you want fuel injection look for something 1987 or newer.

Found these schematics on eBay awhile ago and they have been very helpful.

The tachometer gets it info from the ignition control module not the CPS.

The CPS is difficult to probe correctly. Have you checked for spark with a spark tester?

Probably a bad ground somewhere. Try this.

Why are you trying multiple CPS sensors if it will fire when you use starting fluid? That indicates a fuel issue not a spark issue. Gas tends to varnish after sitting for long periods of time. Have you checked flow at the fuel rail by simply disconnecting the fuel hose and putting it in a bucket? If you don't have a steady flow I would start by changing the fuel filter. If that doesn't work your lines are likely gummed up and need to be thoroughly flushed.

My dad's car doesn't have cruise (manual transmission). I will check for HVAC vacuum hoses tomorrow night.

If you need pics of something my dad's 84 Eagle is fully stock with all the emissions stuff still on it.

The more you get into the car the more shared parts you will find.

This is a big misconception. The transfer case is not the issue it is the transmission. It is has the transfer case bolt pattern is drilled at a different angle to sit higher off the ground than the Cherokees. But in most cases you can re-drill the bolt pattern and it works fine..

Keep the shims where they are at and use your old bearings as set up bearings. Given you can remove them with out damage and they are not completely worn out. I used a Dremel with a sanding drum to open up the inner diameter of the bearing to be a slip fit instead of a press fit. You can buy setup bearings but they tend to be more than new bearings.

Very nice Eagle. How are those mudflaps attached? I haven't seen pics of factory mudflap mounting before. Also that trailer ball setup is interesting. I don't think I have seen a set up like that before. That rear window wiper is a nice option to bad the arm is missing.

Yes that is basically what I did but it took longer without a bleed screw. I would install the master cylinder and run the line down to the slave cylinder and hook up the line to the slave cylinder without it mounted and then follow the video. I think the only reason he used a vice in the video was to get everything in the same frame.

I am excited to see some pics. Eagles are fantastic vehicles.

You can get a new thermal switch for your e-fan so that it automatically kicks on earlier. I installed one when I swapped my engine and went to an open cooling system. This is the one I got it has been working great so far. It is a 200 degree switch. https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productdetails.asp?RecID=27900 I installed it into an H.O. thermostat housing with an extended wire harness.

The bottom two bolts front and back should be studs and you can place the gasket on those and it stays in place when putting the manifolds back on.

It is my theory that the reason the later 4.0's had worse heat soak issues is because of the fuel rail not a lack of a heat sheild. The later fuel rails went to return less system which lets the fuel sit in the rail longer and is more prone to heat. The Renix fuel rail is the best in my option as the inlet and return lines are on opposite ends. Letting the fuel return to the tank before it has a chance to have heat soak issues.

It was a cost cutting measure they cast a poor heat shield into the 91-98 manifolds. The 99+ manifolds also have a similar design.

Search you local classifieds for XJ Cherokee, ZJ Grand Cherokee, and YJ or TJ Wrangler rims. They are the same and seem to be plentiful. You might get lucky and find some Turbine wheels. Most are 15" diameter and 7" wide with 5x4.5 bolt spacing. Some TJ rims are 8" wide.

I would keep it in place. There is no need to remove it to take off the intake manifold. Remove the air box and you can reach under manifold and get to all the bolts quite easily.