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DirtyComanche

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Everything posted by DirtyComanche

  1. DirtyComanche
    That's a nice fuse panel. What all are you planning on using it for?
  2. DirtyComanche
    Maybe that trunk lid isn't original and was sourced from another car? A fat chick might have sat on the original or something...
  3. DirtyComanche
    $2500 for just the shell seems high. If he wanted $2500 for the shell and all the parts, I'd jump all over it. That said, if a guys spent a couple hours picking that thing apart, and it really is amazing, yeah, I'd certainly consider paying $2000 for it. Consider, that is. I actually don't like that blue (my first MJ was that colour actually), so I wouldn't be happy just buffing that paint, but that's a very personal thing. If he doesn't want to budge on the price, you will probably have more luck trying to get him to include other things and keeping the price the same. I'd try to get the 8.8 rear and the good engine thrown in.
  4. DirtyComanche
    $300-$1000. Varies greatly by locality though. If I could find a pristine body without a driveline, and the timing was right, I would quite possibly drop $2000+ for it, with a smile on my face. What do they want? Is it worth it to YOU?
  5. DirtyComanche
    This. I do not think we will see a diesel. They will not meet emissions and perform satisfactory.
  6. DirtyComanche
    That trunk lid rot would make me wary that the rest of the car is hiding rot...
  7. DirtyComanche
    Worst case cut the needed/unneeded piece out of each cluster housing with a bandsaw, line them back up and liberally apply the 3M Plastiwelder. :laughin:
  8. DirtyComanche
    The fuel gauge mounting being different is a bummer, since the fuel level sender is the unobtainium part. Otherwise it should be fairly simple to drop the HO cluster in and either swap the temp sender or the gauge, the tach and volt meter should work fine. I'll have to try to track down a HO cluster to see how different the mounting is for the fuel gauge. But, this might be the option I want for my XJ. I want to replace my rusting fuel tank with the later plastic one at some point, and I have only a partial gauge cluster in it anyways. Hmm. Too bad I didn't know this before I spent money on a speedometer cable extension (it has a doubler in it).
  9. DirtyComanche
    Run it and see if it just needs some time to wear in. Mine jumped worse when I replaced the cable. It's quieted down a bunch now, but still does it around 60-70km/h.
  10. DirtyComanche
    I think those power switch panels look better in black, personally. I like the clean look with the factory radio. Too bad the aftermarket has never figured out how to make anything that looks clean.
  11. DirtyComanche
    Is it possible to put the HO electronic speedometer in the Renix cluster, or put the other Renix gauges in a HO cluster, in order to make a hybrid cluster that will work with the Renix sending units (temperature and fuel level) but allow you to run an electronic speedo? Obviously you would need to at least add a few wires to the chassis side of the harness, plus if using the Renix cluster you would either need the HO circuit board for it or to add those wires to the cluster. I'm not sure if the pin location is similar on the plugs, or if you could adapt/splice to make it work. Is this anything that anyone has ever tried?
  12. DirtyComanche
    That new bumper should work good for a long time. :thumbsup:
  13. DirtyComanche
    And buy a good valve cover gasket too. Don't be like me with my 10 cork gaskets I bought for $1 each when a NAPA closed. Eventually I'll use them up, but even for $1 they aren't a good deal because they're a pain in the @$$.
  14. DirtyComanche
    I changed my valve cover gasket, did the Cruiser mod to the valve cover breather towers, cleaned the orifice out in the back breather, and put a new grommet/elbow in the front one, and amazingly my rear main seal leak seems to have gone away... Any excess of pressure in the crank case (breathers being clogged) will want to force oil past the rear main seal. The valve cover often leaks because normally they have the factory gasket maker gasket on them still, and it just wasn't meant to last that long, that leaking oil tends to run down the back of the block and looks like a rear main leak. I would do that first. You need very basic hand tools (a socket set, a couple scrapers, screwdrivers, a drill/bits, hacksaw, and some files) to change the valve cover seal and do the Cruiser mod on the breather towers. It takes a couple hours to do because of the fiddlefarting and cleaning up the old sealant. You will want some good shop towels, some scotchbrite, and brake clean to clean everything. To do the oil pan gasket isn't very hard either. Same tools. Again, takes a while just to clean it up. Buy a good pan gasket set and it will go a lot better.
  15. DirtyComanche
    Yeah, but that's not here nor now. Does it crank reasonably fast? Do you have spark? Did you pull the intake off and mist some gas in it? When the lower rad hose was frozen, did you freeze water in the block/head? :???:
  16. DirtyComanche
    At this point, yeah, it's the air/fuel/spark thing. Almost. Is it actually cranking fast enough would be my first question. If it's just turning over slowly, it's probably not going to start even if everything else is working. If it is, proceed to pulling the intake off, and misting some good gas or starting fluid into the intake. It it tries to start, or runs for a few seconds, you know you've got spark. If not, proceed to checking for spark.
  17. DirtyComanche
    When was the last time it ran? Did it run until parked and shut off, or did something abnormal happen?
  18. DirtyComanche
    The long cranking is fairly normal with a Renix setup. It's just figuring out what's going on. If the CPS signal is weak, or other connections are not so good, it will exaggerate the problem. Read through Cruiser's tips and do the ground/connector refreshing and the upgraded grounding strap will probably help. You can move the crank sensor a little closer to the flywheel too, another one of his tips, but I've never bothered to do it. Eliminating the stupid C101 connector might help a bit too. Also, if you can get the cranking speed up it will help, so good battery cables, clean connections, and a good battery are worthwhile.
  19. DirtyComanche
    I'd budget about a thousand, and then somehow spend three times that.
  20. DirtyComanche
    Get some pictures of things, please, because I really don't know what you're working with. Assuming it's a 2003 2.5L that's been swapped into the 88, but the 88 wiring and injection has been retained, it shouldn't be too bad to figure out what's going on. But I'm not sure if that's the case. Let's clarify a few things: 1. Have you seen this thing run? Or were you told that it does run? 2. When you say it 'wants to turn over' that means to me that the engine wants to crank over (spin) when the starter is engaged. Not that it wants to actually start. Am I correct? Or does it crank and sputter like it's trying to start? 3. You tightened the positive connectors, I'm assuming you mean the positive lead on the battery? This made it crank over faster/better, or did it actually make it start? 4. You had to jump it. Was that after cranking for a long time so it ran the battery down? Is the battery charged? Is the battery good? Did it crank over properly when jumped? Did it start when jumped? At the very least I can tell you swapping the motor out is not likely the easiest solution right now. And AFAIK no Jeep has ever used an Allison transmission. Asin transmissions, yes, they've used those.
  21. DirtyComanche
    Maybe. My 76 J10 has it, but it was swapped in with an 81 engine, and it definitely was supposed to have a points setup. I don't remember, but 78 sounds reasonably likely. I mean, I could just look it up, but I'm being lazy right now.
  22. DirtyComanche
    I want to say 81. They went to a Ford Duraspark setup. It might have been a little earlier than that though. Why do you ask?
  23. DirtyComanche
    Wow, what a score. Keep us updated on it.
  24. DirtyComanche
    Knock sensor. Thanks, I was told by a few people that they're not important, my question is why would they not be important? I'll be replacing it. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk It's important. It will run without it, hence some people feel they are not important. However if you wind up in a situation where there is detonation then damage may occur to the engine as the ECU will have no idea and not cut timing. They did delete it on the HO system because Chrysler does stupid things. I don't know if they run slightly less aggressive timing or not with the HO.
  25. DirtyComanche
    It also would be cheapest to keep it basically the same as a Wrangler. They could then build it on the same line, as the Comanche was with the Cherokee.
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