DirtyComanche

I wouldn't buy a wear part, like a TRE, from Crown.

That's not a bad idea. It also makes the limited search function a little more useful (eventually, once enough new content is added). Moderators will have to expect to move threads fairly often. But that's part of the job. :rotfl2: Just don't make too many subforums that it becomes overwhelming.

The kids probably traded in Dad's truck for an economy car. :doh: I'm trying to get a J-truck thing together again. Attempt #3 at this point. I'm hoping I make it happen this time. :thwak:

A negative contrast skin is a good idea. IE, JKowners and Pirate4x4. Much easier to read for most people.

Thanks!

Bump. I need a code again. Got a pile of expensive stuff I need for my J-truck/Gladiator/Dodge abomination and some maintenance items for them MJ. Anyone got a good code? . :MJ 2: .

A Google custom search can be embedded. It's fairly common on more recently birthed forums. I want a button to turn off Hornbrod's anti-Renix posts! :teehee: Nah, a better search and photo hosting would be good...

Anyone who has a "Plus" account (it's like $2.99 a month) and still has working pictures, be aware that will end at the end of 2018. They're trying not to scare off the current paying customers, but if I was you I would start migrating now, as starting in 2019 they will want $400... The longer you wait the harder it is. I'm trying to fix some of my threads and it's a lot of work.

Nice looking truck. :waving:

I fixed a bunch of the later pictures that Photobucket broke. And I resized the ones Hornbrod complained about. :laughin: There's some earlier ones on another phone which Photobucket deleted. I'll try to get fix them later.

That Pioneer CA3068 cable will probably be long enough too. Looks too short for 4wd applications. I'd order whichever and worst case phone them up and say it didn't fit, their customer service is ONLY good if you phone them.

It uses the same drive setup and you can use an automatic or 4wd cable. I think the ATP Y804 will work fine. The Y914 will be super long but you can just loop it around and put a zip tie somewhere to support it if need be, I've ordered and used that cable and it has the correct ends at least.

They were low on washer fluid and filled the wrong thing.

Hmm, that's an interesting idea, might have to play with that. Unfortunately I'm a little sidetracked right now with other projects. So I'm betting you'll come up with something before I do...

What brand of water pump is it? I had an issues with one before. I believe it was determined it was actually a TJ/WJ (much newer) casting, and there is slightly different offset on the pulleys between the earlier and later 4L.

Everything always is. They look good, and functional, though.

That's pretty bad. Okay, maybe that's an understatement.

How do you like the RCVs?

I always liked the turbine wheels. My first truck came with them. Your truck is looking good. Keep up the work on her. :thumbsup:

Wire wheel that stuff off. Run a vacuum in there while you do it, and wear a mask, the seam sealer crap is bad stuff to breathe. You should be able to get away with just cleaning it after that, then a zinc etch primer, and then top coating it with a good quality paint. If it's in the channel reinforcement then short of pulling it up probably the best thing is to get some of that Eastwood internal frame coating stuff. http://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-internal-frame-coating-14oz-aerosol.html

Bumper looks good. :cheers:

For the record, you can put 10w30 in the tcase. NP/NV is not on board with it, but it's not likely to cause any issues. Anything thicker (gear oil) doesn't pump well and will cause issues. I don't think I'd do this, but maybe a 0w synthetic I'd consider... I don't feel there is much point in trying something like this either way though. The type of ATF you use in it does not really matter, +4 is only called for because the tcase is in a Chrysler application. They called for Dex/Merc prior to Chrysler. GM called for +3 in their NP231s. All the tcases are functionally the same. I wouldn't put straight 40w in a diff. :dunno: I use the same 75w140 synthetic in my axles as in my tranny. These choices are based on the assumption that I'm going to subject the components to massive abuse.

Anytime you get a D44 rear it's a good deal. :thumbsup:

The Peugeot case is split down the length of the trasmission, with a split line roughly on the very bottom and the very top. The AX-15 is a split by a band that goes around the entire case, near the shift tower. The Peugeot also uses some weird square metric internal plugs.

There's probably as many opinions on fluid to use as there is members of this forum. You're supposed to use an API GL-4 oil according to the OEM, but that is an obsolete standard. Chrysler later decided that 10w30 motor oil (IIRC) was acceptable. I used Lucas 75w140 Synthetic last time. It is a API GL-5 oil, and is listed to exceed the requirements of a API GL-4 oil. But it might eat the synchos, although technically it shouldn't as if it exceeds the GL-4 spec. Personally I doubt it will and feel that was something of an overblown issue to begin with, probably exaggerated by the formulation of the early GL-5 oils that were quite likely to corrode yellow metals. There's lots of AX-15s running around with the cheapest 80w90 that the quick lube pumped into them, and failures are rare. A better oil might have been the Redline MT-90 75w90. I can't buy it easily, so I wouldn't. Amsoil MTG would probably be the best option, but it's quite pricey. Royal Purple probably makes something too. Motor oil does not have any extreme pressure additives, however using it (or even ATF) in geared transmissions has been popular for about the last 15 years. There doesn't seem to be any issues with using it, but that's a little hard to quantify. There's been a lot of threads on it over the years, but not really a lot of failures that you could point at being from the oil used. If your synchos are shot after 500000 miles, you probably shouldn't blame the oil. :rotfl2: