DirtyComanche

I don't trust Wikipedia. Was "LJ" stamped on them as a build code or anything at all? I believed it was fully made up by TJ guys that wanted to call it the "Long Jeep".

At 503lbs dressed it is lighter than a 4BT by about 200lbs, I believe. It's more in line with the weight of a dressed 4L at that. It's also not as tall, at 28"~, compared with the 4BT which I believe is about 34" (IIRC). Width is still going to be an issue at 25". That stupid catalyst downpipe is going to screw you, but at least the remote oil filter can be moved. It's almost perfect, but it isn't. Like I said, I'm curious what the bellhousing pattern is too. I think they mentioned it in DED, but I forget, and I've got terrible internet here so I'm not watching it again to figure it out.

My understanding is the LJ was never called the LJ by Jeep, and it is simply a sub model of the TJ. Correct or not?

Hah! Not quite. If they could sell it with a mechanical pump, no remote oil filter, no oil cooler (you supply your own) and no emissions crap for $2000 cheaper, plus pickup at a local dealer to save on freight, rather than to your door shipping... I could see the temptation getting high. Because then it would only be $10000 Canadian, and while I would be installing it in a vehicle I bought for $300, somehow in my mind I could maybe justify the economics of that. Well, maybe not.

Shipping in, it's $13000 Canadian. Should I hit buy?

Most of the electrical Cummins engines are retarded easy to wire up, FYI, the only reason they seem hard is because most people deal with them in a Dodge (terrrrrrrrrible) chassis. Even an ISB 24V stolen from a Dodge can be made to run with only 5 or so wires going to it, the ECM and associated harness is on the engine and is meant to operate standalone. The other wires are to run the various datalinks with the Dodge PCM and to run the instrument cluster. This one looks like it would be dead nuts simple to wire up, and likely wouldn't give you any issues in that regard for many years. I don't like that it has an EGR cooler and a cat integrated into the downpipe. Waste of money to buy something you're going to throw in the trash, and hopefully not cause any programming issues by doing so. What bellhousing pattern is it? SAE something?

I'm curious how well that dye will hold up on seats where there is a ton of wear.

So the side tie ins don't interfere with the 'cab mount' or the extra brace pieces for the crossmember on the inside of the frame? Since those are the differences between the MJ and the XJ...

This. And needs fuzzy dice for hanging from the rearview.

The only dealer I know here is pricey, and I get a massive discount at one of the other parts houses, specifically including Lucas products.

How easy was it to fit the CavFab crossmember to the MJ chassis?

There's extensions for both Google Chrome and Mozilla Firefox to bypass that. I heard there is one for IE/Edge as well, but I wouldn't have anything to do with that browser. Unfortunately my preferred browser (Pale Moon) doesn't have an extension yet.

I use the synthetic in my AX-15. It, like most modern GL-5 oils, do meet the GL-4 spec for sulfidation corrosion. Unfortunately the presence of high levels of phosphorous means it will eventually strip the synchros (I did not know this when I put it in). Should I be using it? Probably not. But I'm not a fan of putting motor oil in a tranny. I'll probably switch it to something else next time, I haven't decided what though (most of the better options aren't really available to me, and I'm not putting $$$ Amsoil in a transmission that's already mostly junk).

Yes, it's the thicker oil. Most likely at least. Being better oil probably doesn't hurt. I'm surprised you ran cheap oil. And then not switching to a synthetic? Even I run synthetic, and have you seen my garbage!?

I'm assuming it's from doing something wrong with the puller or the up'n'down wrench. Filing some threads off, or a thread file, can fix either if you know how...

On the threaded shaft in your steering column, you can probably just clean the first couple threads off with a fine file and it will be perfectly fine... Or get a thread file and clean them up more properly.

That's a cool process. Nobody around here does it, which is kinda too bad, I need something like that done on my old J truck cab.

That's good info on the latest style MAP sensor. I'll have to try to remember that.

As for the 242 vs 231 tcase, some of the parts do swap between them. As long as they're the same generation, the input gear and planetaries are the same. However, that's pretty much where the similarities end. New Process actually rates the 242 for a higher maximum input torque, IIRC, but as to of how much of a difference it makes in the real world I don't know. I wouldn't hesitate to use one or the other for what you're doing. Don't fix your floors with fiberglass. It's temporary at best. Weld or rivet/panel adhesive new pieces in. Keep working at it, you're making great progress.

No point now. Does anyone have a picture of the TJ tank installed in a MJ?

There's an extension for Google Chrome or Mozilla Firefox browsers that will let you see the pictures.

You can take the brackets off your bench seat and put them on a set of XJ buckets. You just have to find the correct XJ seats (84-95, the straight railed versions fit much better) and drill the rivets out of the brackets on each and replace them with 1/4" bolts and nylocks/stovers. I think there's a decent tutorial in the DIY forum.

I want to pull apart the slave that failed on mine just to see if it was assembled wrong or just a really $#!&ty part. GTLMA is Dot 4, which is an odd choice for a clutch system, I guess next time I might try it or a Dot 4 fluid.

I'm not familiar enough with their build to know. Did they do a 97+ swap at the same time? Because if so, the 97+ fuel system, cluster, and fuel pump wiring would likely play nice with the TJ tank. Otherwise it should be a matter of adding a return line to the tank, and swapping the sending unit guts (and perhaps the fuel pump) over to the TJ pump/sender/pickup basket. You would have to bend/trim the arm on the sender correctly for it to read accurately. I think the TJ pump basket also has a regulator on it, you could likely leave it in place though. I've toyed with adding a YJ tank as an aux tank, I was just going to graft a XJ fill neck and sheetmetal into the rear of the bedside, it looked like it was possible to snake a filler hose through the frame back there, BUT you might need to cut/weld a notch in for it. This really should be a new thread, it's a different topic really...

Following this logic, cracks on the road will cause death wobble, while loose steering allows it. Balancing tires only goes so far, as there is nothing you can do about the other potential sources of vibration or upset to the stability of the vehicle. I'm not saying don't get the tires balanced, but if he has a blown shock and a bad ball joint on the same side, it will likely still death wobble.