DirtyComanche

It's normal for these engines to have a little blowby, or to vent some oil onto the filter like that. They're not exactly a high-zoot ultramodern engine. Cruiser54 has a tech tip on his site about modifying the breather towers in the valve cover to cut down on it. Another option is to install a catch can of some sort.

Or you might find the original mirrors. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk I dislike them. If they were maybe 50% bigger they would be liveable. If I swap to the later style doors I will probably use the later style mirrors. I don't know if you could bolt them to the fender and still have a decent viewing angle out of them. :dunno: If anything they should be mounted back a little farther, but I choose to pick up on two existing holes rather than drilling all new holes. I looked for some generics like the OEM tow mirrors but didn't find anything that wasn't junk. Grote probably makes something like them but I forgot to check their catalog. All in all I'm happy enough with them for now. They might look a slight bit more natural if I made shims so they bolt on a bit straighter, since the YJ/TJ doors are flat and straight up and down, while the MJ door is angled in a bit where I put them.

Thanks. Yeah, there's more info in the build thread. Assuming photobucket still works, there's pictures of the brackets and calipers mounted. Edit - Currently it does not seem either of my photobucket accounts are working. If I have some time I will try to find all the pictures and upload them to Imgur. Photobucket has been nothing but downhill for the last couple years. Painting the topper is on the list. I was going to pull it off for summer (which would be a good time to paint it) but its been proving too useful for the time being. I am torn on if the truck will stay Krylon or not long term. I think I know where a better box is, and I have been eying up 97+ XJs for a front clip/doors swap. Or I might just keep touching it up and leave it.

Looking good! I'm assuming you're going to add flanges to the tranny crossmember if/when you need to remove it?

Well, that's garbage. Hope you find something else soon.

Which line of SMP? They make one line that is "Absolutely the cheapest option that will work long enough for you to sell the vehicle, or maybe to get you to the liquor store and back" and another that is "Not the greatest, but at least it isn't BWD." T-Series is what they call the terrible stuff, and the P/Ns are the same as the better stuff but with a T on the end. IE the automatic TPS is a TH67 for the better one, and a TH67T for the junk one. I didn't know that. Times change -- back in my pony car days, Standard was the go-to brand for points, condensers, caps and rotors. A lot of their better line of stuff is pretty good, but like everyone else they are victim of globalization and the race to the bottom. I don't think there is any aftermarket source of parts that can be completely trusted anymore.

Which line of SMP? They make one line that is "Absolutely the cheapest option that will work long enough for you to sell the vehicle, or maybe to get you to the liquor store and back" and another that is "Not the greatest, but at least it isn't BWD." T-Series is what they call the terrible stuff, and the P/Ns are the same as the better stuff but with a T on the end. IE the automatic TPS is a TH67 for the better one, and a TH67T for the junk one.

Very nice! :bowdown: And I think your car looks way better with those wheels on it. Less grandpa, to say the least. :yes:

Gauge error? Is it actually running hot, or has the gauge or sender started to fail? I changed the tstat in my truck because it was running cold, I naturally figured somebody had put the wrong tstat in it to try to mask an overheating problem. The temperature was the same afterwards. So, obviously it was the gauge or sender at that point. Turns out the temp sender was no good, I threw it in a cup of boiling water to check it and the gauge, then did the same with a known good sender. If it isn't an indicating problem, then your cats plugging would be a reasonable thing to check.

Do you have cruise control? Either way, the speedo cable, or one that will work, should be available. However, it looks like the worm gear that drives the odometer has rounded off...

I don't know about those manuals. If it is the same as this manual: http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=3565545&cc=1181674&jsn=368then yes, it would be worth it. I doubt it is, as I don't think they would legally be able to sell the FSM for that little money since FCA still owns the copywrite for it and is not willing to give it away. For reference, the official reprint off Rockauto is $140 Canadian ($100~ US). They offer a licensed CD version of the official for about $22~ US here: http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=3755688&cc=1181674&jsn=369 I'd probably spend the money on the CD version since I know it is real. You can find originals of the paper ones on eBay or the classifieds here fairly often, if you prefer a paper manual. I do feel the paper FSM is worth its weight in gold and would probably just buy the reprint off Rockauto if push came to shove, luckily the original owner of my first truck included them. Or you can download one of the pirated, er, I mean distributed in a manner strictly not for profit, copies from Cruiser54's website. 1990 one is pretty much bang on for a later production 89. http://cruiser54.com/?page_id=365 I doubt an original of that hose is available anywhere. It is a generic product though. The aviation term is scat hose, but I'm not sure what it's called in the rest of the world. Somebody else will know probably...

It's a NP242. Sorry we've absolutely mangled this thread with random sidetracks and off-topics

Found a tan wagoner an 86 tow package D-44s in a yard. Think it got crushed dam shame. I didn't need them but thought someone would grab them. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk XJ? Because I don't think any 86 XJ came with a D44. Now, that said, that's AMC days, and just about anything could have happened because AMC. IIRC, somebody on here posted up an 86 MJ with a D44 rear at one point, which the BOM did not match to anything that made any sense, nor was it the same as an 87-92 MJ D44, but it was the correct width and bolt pattern and definitely a truck D44, leaving one to assume it must have been one of those All Makes Combined moments.

Well, that's some major progress. I am curious how the fuel economy aspect works out. If it does, for research's sake, could you try swapping the bigger 97 TB on to see if it hurts it?

Yes, the first generation of Grand Cherokee was the ZJ. Prior to that there was the SJ Grand Wagoneer, prior to that they were just Called a Cherokee or a Wagoneer. The SJ Cherokee/Wagoneer (maybe only came in Wagoneers and J-trucks?) could be had with the Borg-Warner Quadratrac (BW1305 had no low range, BW1339 had low range) full time tcase. The later Grand Wagoneer came with the NP228 (open diff in full time) and NP229 (I believe a VC style limited slip in full time).

Full-time transfer case "option"? I wasn't aware the Grand Cherokee came any way other than full-time. The early ones had some funky transfer case that the off-roaders hate -- 247, maybe? -- that didn't do something. Was it no low range? The later ones (in the ZJ series) I thought all had the 242. The ZJ and the WJ could have the NV247 AFAIK. It's got a viscous coupling that always fails. Junk. They also could have the NV242, but it is not the same as the XJ version as it uses some odd internal arrangement to move the shift forks, I believe it's a cable. They have problems with popping out of part time 4wd under load. As to the limited slip axles, there was options for them on the ZJ and WJ I believe. They aren't a clutch pack setup. I believe they use a VC instead? The one out of the front axle might be worth swapping in if somebody had the time and interest. I'm totally not a ZJ/WJ guy though, so there is absolutely no warranty on this post.

That hose is to draw warm air from the exhaust manifold during cold starts or cold operation. There's a little flapper door on the front of the airbox, and it's controlled by a little thermal switch in the top of the airbox with the vacuum lines running to it. Personally I think it's a gimmick and remove it, and I live in a cold climate.

You definitely have the right sized socket on that bolt? It's an awkward thing to get the angle right, and I want to say it's a 5mm socket. I'd have checked the fusible links off the ignition relay first, or that the big wire to said relay is hooked up.

I'd monitor it. Like I said, I doubt it was the oil. If it keeps making metal like that then it's a time bomb.

Who rebuilt it? I do not think running the 85w-140 caused that. A bunch of that looks like outside contaminants, i.e. unclean work conditions.

The IAC is the same. The Renix TPS can be adapted onto it. Same with the GM throttle body.

A HO one is a little more streamline. Early GM vortec is bigger, but flows way better. Hard to say without seeing what you're working with.

There's maybe a 5% chance it has a D44 rear. If that.

What diameter exhaust pipe? Are you running a full tail pipe past the muffler, or just a dump? I used two of those mufflers on my plow truck, 2.5" diameter, and dumps. It's loud. I mean, it's not terrible, has a decent tone with the V8, but probably not what I'd want for a daily driver. :eek: If you've got a full tailpipe past it, it probably won't be too bad.

I'd probably put a fuel pressure tester on it, but without one you can still check a few things. You should be able to hear the pump humming when you turn the key on. The pump is in the tank. If it isn't humming you should use a multimeter to see if you have power at the plug for it, or jump, prior to pulling the pump out to replace it. As said, if the gas is old it's quite possibly no good. You also might be out of gas but the sender is stuck, if it's been sitting for a long time. Also, ethanol fuels may rot the 'sock' filter off the inlet of the pump, which will plug the pump. Likewise that, or other contaminants can plug the filter on the frame rail. See if the pump is running first, and if you actually have fuel in the tank (add some fresh gas) and go from there.