DirtyComanche

Yes, he's a very talented fabricator.

I'm impressed you got that good of shot of the northern lights on your phone. I wish I could drag a better camera and tripod around with me. I've seen them do some trippy stuff in the real north. Seeing the ISS is cool too.

Sub? Sub sandwich? Submarine? Submissive? Suburban? Subaru? Subforum?

I would have thought the suspension would be squatting a little more...

These ones. Not the Chicom knockoffs. https://store.snapon.com/Hex-Head-Fastener-Extractors-3-8-Drive-10-mm-Hex-Head-Fastener-Extractor-P641685.aspx Edit, this is the actual 12mm one, but they don't fit the same on E-torx from what I recall. https://store.snapon.com/Hex-Head-Fastener-Extractors-3-8-Drive-12-mm-Hex-Head-Fastener-Extractor-P641686.aspx Apparently they're now much more expensive than when I bought the set of them though... But the last time I pulled them out was to do exactly the job you need to do. But if you can get a dremel in there and cut it off, that works fine, don't mangle the bellhousing. If you're using those little dremel cutoff disks, make sure you take about 500 of them. And ditto on whoever said to buy new regular bolts and not put the E-torx back in. I don't remember the size/thread, but they're a standard SAE bolt.

That's really bad.

Before you mess it up so it isn't able to be extracted, Snap-On sells bolt extractors for rounded heads. They are not expensive, a few dollars each.

A waterpump can/will weep before total failure. It's actually a design 'feature' that it will leak before the bearing f's right off and leaves you stranded. Brake clean the engine, observe for leaks after shutdown, as it easily it could be something else... Change the part that leaks.

The leads on Chicom garbage like that often are supplied open, to protect the meter and you from actually accomplishing anything.

I'm going to have to use Hobo Freight as an alternate though.

Your Horror Fraught Tools meter might be DOA. It happens. Will it show you voltage when you put it on the battery terminals?

Probably cheaper, probably easier. You will need to remove old brackets and put new spring perches on whatever axle you buy, unless it is out of a MJ (there's not many MJ D44s or AMC 20s for sale). You will need new ubolts and hardware ($70 approx for good stuff). There also may need to be some adapting of brake lines, ebrake cables, and you might need to perform some sort of driveshaft modifications, all depending on what the axle if from and various other things about the swap. Any junkyard axle you buy will likely need a little tidying up too, new brake parts and oil generally. If you have any interest in lifting the truck and going SOA at some point in time, I'd buy two sets of spring perches and weld the SOA ones on at the same time... But that's me.

I mean in person. I've never seen a 97+ XJ with a 4 cylinder even. They obviously sold them in some places, but they weren't popular around here.

I don't recommend you do this. You're quite possibly throwing good money after bad. Yes, a 2.5L 4cyl is going to have a hard time breaking a D35, but it's still a piece of junk. I think you'd be better looking at the Ford Explorer 8.8 swap option as you can just buy one with 4.10 gears for less money than the parts to regear your D35 to 4.10. Or as Pete says a Chrysler 8.25, but honestly I've never seen a desirable one (97+) with factory 4.10 gears. You could also look for an actual MJ D44 (rare) or an XJ one (still rare) or a TJ one (not quite as rare, needs more brackets cut off it before you can use it but is the same as swapping in any other non-MJ axle really). I don't believe you need a carrier if you wish to regear it. But you'll need a master install kit (shims, bearings, seals, pinion nut, marking paste), a set of ring gear bolts, and the gears themselves.

Probably. I'll be putting synthetic motor oil in mine next time. Maybe not 10w30.

Epic comment. Facebook response to such a question: "Try taking it to the dealer. I took my 2018 Trailhawk to them when I couldn't get the seat to adjust and they were really awesome and after only a couple minutes had it fixed and showed me how to work the buttons. They only charged me the minimum charge of $127.95, which was great because pennies are always tight and I'm saving up to buy eyelashes for my headlights!"

As said, CPS, might not be bad but might not be installed/hooked up right. Or as Eagle implies, wrong flywheel/flexplate. My guess on top of that would be engine grounds, or another wiring harness connect out of place.

These. She's broken. Junkyard replace, rebuild yourself, buy a reman, or buy a new one.

They were popular through the 80s to late 90s on Ford, Dodge, GM, Toyota, Mitsubishi, and Mercedez trucks... Plus the MJ. Not to mention many older semi trucks used a similar system. With the advent of 4 wheel ABS systems that actually worked, it's more or less an obsolete system.

$43.12

Could you link it? I run ZJ CV shafts. I like them, but I suspect they won't live forever. There is clones of the early CV shafts (used in certain Quadra-drive? NP229 I think, XJ applications) out there, they are junk. The ZJ ones are bigger. However they have a tone ring on them that must be removed to fit the earlier unit bearing/knuckle design, and you lose the inner wheel bearing seal in the process. Losing the seal isn't a big deal assuming you're running new production unit bearings that have sealed bearings in them, but the original design does not used seal bearings.

That's how it's done if you wish to adjust it on the fly. Just make sure you route the lines nicely and use a good grommet on the firewall so nothing chafes. This will not automatically give you full pressure in the event of a front system brake failure, and that's about the only downside. Make sure the valve you buy is stiff enough, detented, locking, etc, that it will not be accidentally bumped or vibrate out of the intended position.

It's a myth that the gears were different, at least as far as I've seen with a 4L equipped XJ.

Most guys who adjust them regularly put them within reach of the driver. Which means you have to route brake fluid into the cab, not a big deal but some jurisdictions frown on it. IMHO the factory setup is the actual intelligent way to do it... It's not like the MJ was the only truck equipped with a load (height) sensing valve. Most of the issue is that they are no longer functioning on a vehicle this old, or that the vehicle has been modified and it's not adjusted at all well because of that. Edit, I will fully admit it would be nice to have mine back and functioning. It was deleted before I got the truck.

Many CL or Facebook sellers can't be trusted to count a number higher than 3. If that. That said, I'd count them, always. Paint pen the first spline and count from there. Often they were marked from the factory. The OD of a socket is not an established value. I could measure all the ones in my toolbox to make a point, but I'll spare everyone that.