DirtyComanche

Of course you can, since the 9" is typically a cheap axle to build. If you want it with 5x4.5" bolt pattern and disk brakes (with a parking brake), it's going to start to get expensive. Or you could spend more on just a 9" third than that axle is, if you want. It's apples to bananas, some people prefer one over the other. IMHO I'd be hard pressed to spend that money on a D44, but then I've probably got $1500 into my own D44... And the as-pulled XJ axle I started with was free.

There's an ATP cable that I used, it's listed on Rockauto. P/N Y914. It's like $15 US, and it's plenty long.

Good to know. I can buy those then.

I'm not home but can almost guarantee they're a smaller metric thread. M8 maybe. Might be able to drill out and tap the inserts over to the larger SAE size.

The problem with the hockey puck is attaching it suitably. I bolted them in on my XJ, but it has totally different coil buckets since it's a Ford axle, I added a captive nut when I put the brackets on for that purpose. I didn't want to use hockey pucks, but I had them and I needed to do something as 37" tires and 3" of lift is a terrible idea without suitable bumpstops. I don't know if it would be easy to bolt something through the stock lower coil buckets. Next time rather than a hockey puck I would just buy some round stock and cut it to the length I wanted, drill through it, countersink/counterbore it, and bolt it on. It's not like you're getting any awesome compressional cushioning properties out of the hockey puck anyways. I never got back to doing anything about this on my MJ. So I'm curious if there is a solution. I need 2" or so more bumpstop than I have, leaving the swaybar on is all that stops me from really mangling things.

I guess that's kinda the nuclear option for repairing a crack around the hinge. I'd probably put the door in the right place with plastic wedges/tape/wood shims, then see where the hinge is sitting. Make sure the latch/striker is rigged right and not worn out before doing this. You're going to need a shim between the hinge and that repair plate you've put in there, as it is now closer to the vehicle centerline than it should be. I'd probably try sticking the fender in place too before committing to anything, but I assume you're planning to just bolt that on so you can change it later.

Probably not. I stand by the numbers in the first post, which are for low option/stripper models, but consider nothing to be gospel unless I weighed it myself. Throw your added junk (tools, jack, girlfriend, etc) on a good digital scale and you'll be surprised how fast it adds up. I got sick of the wildly varying numbers I got for the weight of everything under the sun and bought a strain gauge for my hoist.

Is it actually dead? Most of them are pretty rock solid...

Renix speedo is an entirely mechanical cable drive and no information for the purposes of operating the engine or transmission is gathered from it.

I named my XJ "The little blue pill" because it was light blue, and yeah, it's a reference to Pfizer's 'wonder drug' for erectile dysfunction. I mean, it's not exactly a great name, I think I was drunk or something. My 88 MJ is officially Tu-Ukumah. Named after Black Horse, a Comanche war chief. The Gladiator is just "The Gladiator". There isn't enough of them around to confuse people. I call my JK either "Pumpkin" because of the colour, or "The Ghey-kay" to annoy other JK owners. The 76 GMC plow truck is "Operation Plowshare" because the build was similarly full of poorly thought out ideas as the actual Operation Plowshare.

I've had snow at home for a long time. No pics, just believe me.

Clickspring. Here's the 5th part of him building the Antikythera Mechanism: I also really like Curious Droid's musing on space stuff:

Yes, he's a very talented fabricator.

I'm impressed you got that good of shot of the northern lights on your phone. I wish I could drag a better camera and tripod around with me. I've seen them do some trippy stuff in the real north. Seeing the ISS is cool too.

Sub? Sub sandwich? Submarine? Submissive? Suburban? Subaru? Subforum?

I would have thought the suspension would be squatting a little more...

These ones. Not the Chicom knockoffs. https://store.snapon.com/Hex-Head-Fastener-Extractors-3-8-Drive-10-mm-Hex-Head-Fastener-Extractor-P641685.aspx Edit, this is the actual 12mm one, but they don't fit the same on E-torx from what I recall. https://store.snapon.com/Hex-Head-Fastener-Extractors-3-8-Drive-12-mm-Hex-Head-Fastener-Extractor-P641686.aspx Apparently they're now much more expensive than when I bought the set of them though... But the last time I pulled them out was to do exactly the job you need to do. But if you can get a dremel in there and cut it off, that works fine, don't mangle the bellhousing. If you're using those little dremel cutoff disks, make sure you take about 500 of them. And ditto on whoever said to buy new regular bolts and not put the E-torx back in. I don't remember the size/thread, but they're a standard SAE bolt.

That's really bad.

Before you mess it up so it isn't able to be extracted, Snap-On sells bolt extractors for rounded heads. They are not expensive, a few dollars each.

A waterpump can/will weep before total failure. It's actually a design 'feature' that it will leak before the bearing f's right off and leaves you stranded. Brake clean the engine, observe for leaks after shutdown, as it easily it could be something else... Change the part that leaks.

The leads on Chicom garbage like that often are supplied open, to protect the meter and you from actually accomplishing anything.

I'm going to have to use Hobo Freight as an alternate though.

Your Horror Fraught Tools meter might be DOA. It happens. Will it show you voltage when you put it on the battery terminals?

Probably cheaper, probably easier. You will need to remove old brackets and put new spring perches on whatever axle you buy, unless it is out of a MJ (there's not many MJ D44s or AMC 20s for sale). You will need new ubolts and hardware ($70 approx for good stuff). There also may need to be some adapting of brake lines, ebrake cables, and you might need to perform some sort of driveshaft modifications, all depending on what the axle if from and various other things about the swap. Any junkyard axle you buy will likely need a little tidying up too, new brake parts and oil generally. If you have any interest in lifting the truck and going SOA at some point in time, I'd buy two sets of spring perches and weld the SOA ones on at the same time... But that's me.

I mean in person. I've never seen a 97+ XJ with a 4 cylinder even. They obviously sold them in some places, but they weren't popular around here.