DirtyComanche

Pretty darn classic, if I do say so. Too bad they were unable to land the core.

The Renix intake manifold won't fit worth a damn. Everything else is easily dealt with. Make sure you don't get a regular O331 head. It will crack.

It's to lock the bolt into the thinner arm from the factory shifter and space the rod end off of it. The hardware arrangement isn't critical, it was just whatever worked well at the time, but locking another nut on is generally a more rigid setup than just spacing it with washers. The clearance is much tighter at the tcase side, so you would not be able to do the same thing, but it also isn't needed. Exactly how somebody else would arrange things would depend on what rod ends they were able to source, those ones are actually super expensive if you had to buy them (they came off a crashed helicopter), but functionally similar ones can be had for only a few dollars from a decent hardware store (or ebay/Amazon/whatever).

The Peugeot case is split down the length of it, with a seam roughly running along the bottom and another at the top. The AX-15 splits around the middle in several sections. Post a couple pictures for 100% verification. If you're going to convert to 4wd there's no need to worry about it, you won't be reusing it.

The registration renewal is a flat fee here, doesn't matter what you're registering. I think it's $38 or something. To renew the reg and insurance this year was $999. That's with me getting the highest level of discount possible on the insurance, and it's only liability insurance.

What is your budget? Lots of money, least amount of hassle, I'd say phone Currie, Dynatrac, etc and have them build you a D44, 9", or whatever that meets your specs. They can sell you a brand new bolt in axle. It will not be cheap, but all the parts will be new and it will be a nice product. Not so much money, a guy could find a MJ D44 and do a brake conversion on it. The 3.73 ratio is quite rare though, I'm not sure what option package would yield that, if any (4L trucks are always 3.07 or 3.55), so if you really want 3.73s you would have to plan on a gear swap, and you might as well put a Truetrac limited slip in at the same time. Plus all new bearings. This wouldn't be a super cheap swap by any means, I've got a couple thousand bucks into my rear D44 all said and done. I thick the cheapest option would be an Explorer 8.8 as 3.73 and 4.10 were the two common ratios, and it's easy to get them with a clutch pack limited slip, and the later ones are all disk brake from the factory. You would need new perches welded on for the springs, don't forget the companion flange and bolts for the driveshaft, and you will need to do some finagling to adapt the ebrake cables. It's a well built axle and they're very available used, but it does have the downside of being a bit narrow for the MJ, so a set of wheel spacers is a good idea with it. There's also the way overblown problem of it spinning the tubes in the pumpkin, which is easy to correct by welding the tube perimeter when the perches are put on. I farmed out the welding on my first 8.8 swap and I recall it only cost me the minimum charge in labour ($120) to have the perches and tubes welded, which was certainly worth it at the time, if you're unable to weld I would suggest doing the same thing.

Another thing to consider is my tcase is raised slightly for more clearance. I believe it will work fine with the tcase in the factory position. If a tcase drop is used there is a chance the linkage will not appreciate the added angle. You'll never see a tcase drop on anything I own as I view them as being a wholly counterproductive mod, so it wasn't something I gave much consideration to at the time.

That should be 4LO, but it was over a year ago that I took that picture so don't quote me. There's a lot of the snow on the ground, or I'd take you pictures of it in other positions.

If you undo the shift linkage and move the shifter handle there is no resistance, the only place there is resistance, or the position of the shifter is held by the shifter assembly (not the tcase) is when you hit the notch at the back of 4HI and have to move it over. Thus it is the only 'gate' in the shifter, as opposed to many other shifters that have detent pins, stops, etc throughout the travel; with a shifter like that the throw ratios are much more critical as you have maintain alignment between those points and the points on the tcase. I guess to be more technical there's the extreme ends of the travel past 2HI and 4LO as well, but they don't really count, you have some cushion there if things aren't perfect. It's a piece of 1/4" flat bar as that worked nicely with the thickness of the stepped portion on the stud of the tcase (I just drilled two holes and filed it out to make the correct slotted shape to interface with it). I don't remember if that was 1/4"x1.5" or if it was slightly narrower, either way adjustment can be made with a grinder.

It's so simple that people can't understand it. The throw ratio is 1:1 with the stock gate, the super complicated linkage that Jeep used is in fact effectively a 1:1 ratio itself. So the length of the arm I made is (center of the shift stud to the hole for the rod end, a second hole was drilled for no reason and I have always wondered why I did) the same length as the arm off the stock shifter (center of the pivot point to the hole in it that the factory provided). There only physical gate in the stock shifter is from the 4hi-neutral position, so as long as you're adjusted to hit that perfectly it won't matter if it is slightly out in the other positions, functionally mine lines up fine although I will admit I do not have a normal XJ/MJ to compare it to (my XJ has triple sticks). One can resort to using cables, or complicated linkages with bushings, or fancy laser cut parts, but there simply is no need. The stock linkage was designed to isolate NVH, and to provide some artificial feel/resistance to the setup. With this there is only actual feel, and the only resistance is that of the detent riding over the shift cam, and the actual shift collar in the tcase sliding into place. If one was not running a center console or regular interior, I would say it is preferable to not have the shifter attached to the body/chassis in any way, as there always will be issues associated with excess driveline movement in that scenario. However, if your motor and trans mounts are in good shape, it does not present any actual functional difficulty (this is for either my linkage or the stock one, both have the same issues if the mounts are soft/torn). Another note on cables is that the JK uses them from the factory. It's a terrible setup, but very good at isolating NVH. It also would have had a much lower per unit cost given the intended production lifespan, and very real savings regarding labour for initial installation and adjustment (or the fact there isn't any adjustment, more correctly) so they can do for a net cost of very few dollars what would cost many times as much for the aftermarket. I've only had it freeze solid a handful of times, and fall right apart once, and that's in the span of putting 40K kilometers on my JK. Meanwhile I can shift my MJ's tcase with no issues, and have no worry about breaking the linkage or a cable in the event it were to magically bind up...

You should be able to force it into basic HTML mode for slow connections (or in your case obsolete connections).

From the sounds of things they're polyurethane and yes, they will quite possibly make noise unless lubricated with the correct grease. That said it easily could be that something else is worn out or loose. Retorque all the suspension bolts, check the ball joints, wheel bearings, ujoints, steering, etc.

If you buy one of the ones listed on Rockauto to be correct you can just send it back if it isn't actually. You have to call them to do it, their automated return system won't let you. I sent back a cam sensor that was incorrectly listed before, they sent me a shipping label to do it. They were pleasant about the issue. Obviosuly there's some issues with what senders cross reference given what is going on with the listings on there.

I added this one to my subs after Curious Droid lead me there. https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCZFipeZtQM5CKUjx6grh54g It's not really videos, more like podcasts, but he has thought out a lot of how we could could leave this rock, and the implications thereof, without relying on any technology that we have no understanding or scientific capability for at this point.

Nope, working on other things for the time being. It will be a month or two before I am back to this. I did order clutch parts, I need to see of UPS lost them or not.

The one you bought is described as being a switch, IE for use the with idiot light. The way it is behaving would suggest it is too. Rockauto's listings are too screwed up for me to verify if the other ones are correct. They look it, but maybe not.

DIY it with some rod ends and threaded rod, etc if you can't get the factory one to work. Cable shifters are never that reliable, and generally give poor operator feedback, they're really a solution that is meant to be used when a traditional linkage would be too complicated to ever work reliably (typically in cases with doublers/triplers or divorced transfercases) and at $180 I just don't see how anyone could justify the Novak setup. Boostwerks makes a linkage replacement, but that chances of it actually fitting correctly and working are very low, I also seem to recall it's quite expensive as they complicated it several magnitudes of order more than it needed to be (which is also likely part of the reason why it often doesn't work). This is mine, total cost invested was under $10: It's just a piece of flat bar which was drilled/filed to allow it to index correctly on the shift stud on the tcase, some rod ends I had lying around, and some stainless allthread I had left over from a JB Custom Fab NP205 shifter setup. You may need to make it slightly different depending on the positioning of the tcase vs the floor/shifter, but the main thing to keep in mind is to keep the throw ratio at 1:1 and have the arm on the shift stud nearly hit the tcase when in the farthest back position (which is 2wd high). I can shift the tcase with my pinky finger using this setup, and the gates/detents can be clearly felt. Make sure your motor mounts and tranny mounts are in good condition though as it may want to pop out of gear otherwise (which is a problem with the stock setup too).

I wouldn't.

I've not yet seen any 3D printed plastics that would hold up to usage as a taillight. I'm sure they're out there, but not available on the hobbyist level.

And the spring rubbing the inner C (or inner knuckle, not the steering knuckle) is because the coil either isn't in the bucket and pinned correctly (there is clips to retain them, they strip out), or it's an aftermarket coil that's too large of an OD, or the track bar is the stock one or poorly adjusted so there is side loading on them. Spring steel is super hard, so it's not going to wear out any time soon, but it may be able to be corrected.

Assuming you read your tcase tag correctly you have a NP242. The shift positions are 2wd, 4wd part time, 4wd full time, neutral, 4wd part time low range. Note, part time means it is only to be used for part of the time, as there is no central differential action in this position, IE not for dry pavement. Chances are the tcase shift linkage is all screwed up and out of adjustment because it's a terrible design. You may be able to adjust it. You've got the regular non-CAD HPD30 in the front, and a D44 in the rear. Good stuff.

That would be cool, providing you either set it to something I know or email the details to my actual email address.

IIRC the 8.8 is offset to the passenger side a couple inches. Either way it does not produce any negative effects in the MJ chassis, as the small amount of angle added to the ujoint is within the working allowance regardless if a double cardon shaft is used or not, and it does not cause the driveshaft to foul on anything.

I doubt it will matter, but I'd put it in the bottom based on cooling system function theory. You may need to 'adjust' it later though.

I don't think the "I forgot my password" feature actually works. Or at the very least it won't for me. I have no idea what my password here is, I'm automatically logged in on an older laptop and given you only get a couple tries before it locks your account I think it's unlikely I will figure out what it is.