Cochise

Thanks for all of the info, the posi-lok cable will be here tomorrow and I will check it out and see how it works. I may look into designing something that would attach the cable to the T/C shifter or linkage to engage the cad when the T/C is engaged. Hopefully I can find a spot on the T/C shifter/linkage that gives the right travel length for the cable engagement. If not I could make an over-travel slotted connection that should do the trick. I'm a mechanical engineer and I do machinery design so I'm pretty sure I could figure something out. It will take some prototyping but I'll let you guys know if I get a working model. I only use the 4wd when I go surf fishing or down to the river, I would rather keep the cad because it sees alot of highway use and would rather not be power-rotating parts that could otherwise be free-fiction spinning. I think the vacuum cad is great because I can just pull the shifter anywhere up to 55 mph and keep going, but I don't like the idea of having to pull a cable and shift the T/C if I start getting stuck. I have a new unused vacuum control for the cad that I won't be using now, maybe someone on here could use it, I'm just tired of fixing vacuum lines.

You would have to tape every wire under the hood, that would take at least 163 beers. I'm going to try the posi-Lok, the cable is 80", I hope it's not way too long. how long was your cable? and how did you route it?

Well that sucks, maybe I'll try the cable that will arrive on Friday. Just tired of fixing the vacuum leaks from the country rats chewing the lines, I live in the country and these rats just love to crawl under your hood and munch away. I actually had to sell My 2002 Silverado HD with the 496 big block because the wiring was coated with some kind of soy based insulation, they thought it was rat candy. Thanks for the reply

'89 Base model, was thinking of doing a front axle cad delete via the permanent rod kit or a DIY fix, was wandering how hard this is on the chain in the older NP231 T/C. Were the +'91 T/C's (I think NP242) built to operate better with a non-cad setup?, did the chain turn all the time like the 231 will?, I'm not worried about gas mileage as it's only on the highway twice a week, I'm more worried about the extra wear on the T/C chain from allways turning. Front driveshaft will allways turn also but replacing driveshaft or U-joints is easier to fix. I have a Posi-Lok cable on order but I may not use it just yet.

"advise" yah, and thanks for the advice too

All is well for now, runs really good, thanks for the advise.

Well, the Gods of Good have smiled on me (at least for now), decided to hook the EGR back up and took it for a test drive. All went well as I cruised a few long Texas back roads and let the ECU do it's learning thing, even at temp it was good. One difference between this time and last time, I didn't reset the ECU after hooking it back up, it was running good so I left it alone. Maybe I didn't let it learn long enough or maybe it doesn't have anything to do with the computer at all, maybe it's not the God of Good but the Boss of Bad that's setting me up for another letdown, we'll see. (balls crossed just in case)

All good advise, all was connected as it should be, the mystery to me is the fact that after I disconnect the EGR it continues to run bad until I reset the ECU. Also a mystery is that it did the same exact thing when I originally hooked up the old system, this and the fact that there was no sign of carbon behind the EGR valve when it was removed. This problem may have been there for a long time, hence the lack of carbon from being disconnected for so long. Solenoid is new and valve is new but I will do some more checking per your advise, curious that at cruising speed it needs to see 35 inHg vacuum.

When I removed the EGR valve there was no carbon buildup in the intake, the valve must have been disconnected for alot of it's life. All vacuum lines are new and it runs fine with it disconnected. The fact that it runs bad after I hook it up and then runs bad after I unhook it tells me it might be computer related, after I reset the ECU (with EGR disconnected) it runs fine again. Could it possibly be a sensor?, Did I not run it long enough for the computer to adjust?

Tried to find something through searching but didn't have any luck. Got the truck running like a top and all was good. Plugs looked perfect, no heating issues, idled fine etc.. I had the EGR blocked off and I thought I may have heard some pinging when I was in a strong head wind coming back from surf fishing (could have been a rattle, not sure), so I decide to fix up the EGR system and try the lower combustion temp theory. I replaced the solenoid and valve, and had previously put in a new vacuum harness (which I had EGR lines plugged ). Hooked everything up and reset the ECU and took it for a run. It stumbled a little when I first backed out of the driveway and then it was fine. After it warmed up good it started to fall on it's face when I gave it throttle and started to idle really rough. I kept going thinking that the computer would correct itself but it didn't, so I plugged everything back up to be back where I started (no EGR). It still ran poorly and idled worse, so I reset the ECU again and all was good again. The stalling and bad idle happened when I first hooked up the old EGR system after I got the truck, so I figured that part of it was bad and just plugged everything and moved on. Now I put new EGR stuff and it acts the same way, maybe the old EGR stuff wasn't bad after all and it's something else, Has anyone else experienced this?

I agree that it's not a lubricant, I think that may be what's causing the popping, It looks like the PO may have used it to install some of the bushings. I've checked all the track bar connections and all is tight and good. Even the PO said it never popped before he had the entire front end rebuilt.

Thanks, it does look like they have been sprayed with WD40 or some kind of penetrating oil, that's what caught my eye originally, everything else is tight and checks good.

When I got my MJ the previous owner had replaced the front end bushings (red), not sure what they are made of. There is a popping noise when I'm turning and going up or down grade at the same time. It reminds me of when I used an oil impregnated nylon material that acts as a bearing for sliding on steel parts of a piece of heavy machinery that I once designed (it popped like crazy when it was sliding). I've checked all of the usual popping sources that are listed on this forum and the entire front end was rebuilt by the PO. Has anyone noticed popping or "creeping" after installing new bushings? (these bushings are red and shiny looking). Thanks