DirtyComanche

In the link they modded the heater ducting and moved the HVAC controls down. He used the 96 style dial controls because the massive slider style control head wouldn't fit. I'm guessing if you used more of the 97+ parts you could use the 97+ HVAC controls. Sounds like a lot of messing around to get a double DIN in there. I've never seen a double DIN I liked enough to bother...

It's probably mangled. But my ego is stroked, and that's all that really matters.

I got the first right answer.

Mine gets around 20-21 normal mixed driving with a lift and 32s or whatever they are. I reset the tripometer on every tank because I don't trust fuel gauges. O2 sensor, MAP, and CTS are where I would start, along with the standard tuneup stuff like the plugs and rotor. Also check your brakes aren't hanging up and you're not stuck in 4wd, although those are both obvious.

That is normal. The pulley is made by wrapping an ribbed extrusion around the center piece. It's a cheaper manufacturing process.

Depends on what engine you've got and what fuel you're running. Winter blend diesel typically has less BTUs, but it's not by a lot (5% maybe). Running Jet-A I normally saw an increase on the highway in the winter with my 12V and 24V Dodge piles, vs the summer with the same fuel, the turbo really enjoys the colder air. But around town, idling it all the time, constant use of 4wd to not get stuck, etc, it would suck. The dually was especially bad, the extra tires really see a lot of added resistance in the snow. More modern stuff seems to often not like it as much, the emissions systems freak out if the engine/exhaust is kept cold and will actively try to do something about that.

Not to get technical but Help! is Dorman. For future reference on the fuel rail, I undo the rail from the engine and flop it out of the way whenever I can. You don't have to worry about the quick connect fittings then. Obviously this isn't always an option. My XJ just has FI hose with FI clamps on it going to the rail, because it's a HO rail in a Renix chassis and I didn't have the factory lines. That said, the parts to change it to AN stuff are sitting in my Summit cart, I just don't like having that much exposed FI hose. I did wrap the hose in heat shield material though. They're just slipped over the factory bulb in the line (that retains the quick connects). You can actually get the metric (M14x1.5 ORFS or maybe they're ORB) fittings from a regular old hydraulic shop since it's a pretty common fitting apparently. You can then go to JIC (which is basically AN), SAE, hose barb, or whatever. But either way it gets expensive to do it. Even good quality transmission cooler hose isn't cheap.

Your flywheel/flexplate might be all chowdered too. Pull the starter off first and look at the bendix drive on it and then look at the flywheel teeth. Also could just be that the starter bolts are coming loose and it's not engaging right anymore. Otherwise I'd say just don't buy the cheapest reman.

The only time it will matter is if you're winching for a long time. A worthwhile upgrade, but certainly not a requirement.

I'd try a little harder to get the quick connect fitting out first. Screwdrivers, picks, spoons, etc, while pulling on the line. If you look at the one that came out you'll see the two tabs that need to be compressed. But yes, if you can't get it, those adapter fittings just spin off. I believe they're sealed with an oring from the factory, you'll need a new one. Spinning the fitting off will likely trash the orings in the quick connect, so you'll need to get it apart one way or another... And it's easier if the tranny is still attached so you're only pulling on one half of it while wedging things in there. If all else fails you can buy AN or hose barb fittings to replace them and ditch the quick connects. Edit, squirting some WD-40 in the quick connect will help lube up the orings and get them to pop out. Not looking for a "WD-40 isn't a lubricant" argument, it works well for this because it is so thin. Kroil, AC-50, whatever, they work too, but there's really no difference for this purpose, spray it in, start working the fitting around and the oring will draw it in and then release.

You can do a lot with M$Paint if you've got the time.

I'm in the very middle of BC basically.

I haven't updated this at all in a while because I'm really not working on it. However I will report the new clutch slave has thus far been flawless (metal Bendix one). I also picked up a 2wd external slave tranny for converting my spare AX-15. The driver's door piled up completely so I'm going to bring it in, weld the hinges, put new hinge pins in, change out the striker, weld up the cracks around it, and try to get the lock linkage working correctly again. This requires parts I don't have, so I'm going to park it for a bit until I can junkyard some of that stuff up. I did throw together a trail spares kit for it a while back, and made a terrible youtube video about it. I'm open to feedback on the video, although I made it really just to see if I could handle the editing process. Typically these types of 'show and tell' videos are terribly boring, and I think this one is too. I need to work on my speaking (and actually have a script) and use a real microphone for this type of video. Anyways, if there's some other crime of motion picture that I have committed, let me know.

Tubing doesn't mean rubber hose. Braze, silver solder, or TIG weld it together, depending on what you can do and what material you go with. Or if you use hose make sure you get the submersion rated type. I'd have to hunt down the spec but it is about a 20 year life in fuel, so it doesn't cause issues. Guys have issues because they use regular FI hose, it will fail relatively shortly if submerged.

You can probably just pull the pump put of your current tank and put a piece of tubing in its place. You'd probably still want a pickup sock on it, but it shouldn't be too hard to build something that would work. Are you using the Walbro external pump to feed the carb then? If I was you I'd order up a Holley Sniper and save myself the time of changing out the current pump.

So what happened to the old "Popular Topics" subforum, or whatever it was? Edit, I see you just merged it in here. That works.

Yeah, that is kinda cool.

Many good vehicles have gone to the junkyard because people will make zero effort to get a title for them.

Sounds more like a 33 year old child.

You can change the forum to allow you to create a profile feature that is your 'garage' or whatever that you can put vehicle details in. Much like more generic options (A/S/L). It's still clunky as you have to click the user to see it, but that's better than nothing. Assuming this forum software supports that, which I'm sure it does.

I'd buy it and keep it, or sell it to another enthusiast. Cut up an XJ to do your conversion instead. Only thing you will need is a new rear driveshaft, and they're not that much to have built. Or piece it together from multiple XJs or other donor vehicles. That way you could get a better rear axle, a non-CAD front axle, different gear ratios, a 242 transfer case, etc, as your heart desires.

My bet is it will show up for a couple years, be problematic, and then they'll figure out some other way to save .03 mpg and eliminate it again. But that's just speculation.

I'd have to make sure, but I think I have mine a notch or two below the straight on position. I like the wheel to be lower than most people would. I think I could live without it though. I did snag a tilt column for my Gladiator. That doesn't mean I'll definitely wind up using it though.

A GM flashing the check engine light means there is a severe misfire, and it will then disable other systems as part of its efforts to get you to stop driving the vehicle.

Losing my keys has never been an issue... But now that I've said that I'll probably drop them in the snow and have to try to find them in spring (like one of the trip springs off my plow truck, it's out there, somewhere, I hope).