DirtyComanche

It should have a 1310 yoke on it. No need for a companion flange.

He needs it for his sunshine shovel, snowboard, and surf board...

Explorer companion flange is 1310. F150 is 1350.

That's a little too bro'truckin' for me. Oh yeah, anything with a company logo laser cut into it is automatically on my "Will not buy" list. If they read this. Yes, that can limit what is available for parts, but I paid YOU for the part, so unless you're going to pay ME for the advertising, you can keep your gotdam logo off it.

Typically when you go to purchase one you make sure you get the companion flange (and the bolts) at the same time. I made that mistake the first time around. While I have never done a KJ 8.25 swap, the Furd 8.8 swap is quite simple and straightforward. But really, any sort of a swap (except a D35) with the perches actually welded on in the correct place would probably work fine for him.

On the upside, even if this MJ is a total disaster you still came out ahead.

Since this harness/ECM was out of a ZJ, I'd go ask on MallCrawlin. Otherwise you're just going to get more advice like that ^^^.

Looks really nice... Is there damage on the ring gear teeth, or is that just that disgusting contaminated gear oil on them? I wouldn't bother doing anything with that axle beyond selling it or throwing it in the metal recycling bin.

The restrictor works for this sort of stuff 99% of the time; some race classes it's common to not run a thermostat and just tune the system with a restrictor. If either the water pump flows too much, or the thermostat's 'motor' moves the valve too fast when it hits rated temperature, you will get a massive rush of hot coolant from the engine into the radiator, which displaces all the cold coolant in the radiator... Drilling a bypass hole in the thermostat can help too, as it means there is always a little coolant flowing through the system. This problem is why GM smartened up and started putting the thermostat on the inlet side of the engine.

Don't turn your efan on all the time for a start. Beyond that your thermostat is moving too fast. The restrictor Don mentions will help. Or try a different (better) thermostat.

Cool, a bobbed longbed. I want to do that with mine, but unfortunately I'd have to find a better box (one that a tree didn't fall on) to start with to do it, which just makes no sense at that point. It's going to take some time to stitch that cut they made back together, but certainly it's doable. Would I be correct in guessing the truck has a 5spd? If so, I would highly suspect that front axle has 3.07 gears. I don't think it would be too hard to get that thing safe, but it will cost a few bucks depending how bad things are. If you stick with that much lift you're going to want new aftermarket upper control arms (adjustable would be a good idea) or to go to a long arm kit of some sort, and the steering will suck unless you make some changes there too.

Self proclaimed expert. Most torques given for engine assembly are with the threads lubed with oil. It's standard practice, as no engine components are assembled dry. Anti-seize would require a higher torque, if anything, than lubed with engine oil. If you've spent any time behind a wrench you should be able to feel the bolt stretch when it hits torque. This is elastic deformation, there's a brief period (15-30 degrees) where you can turn the bolt without the required torque to do so increasing. After that the torque increases, then it decreased, this is plastic deformation at that point, and you'd better f'ing stop or it will break off or the threads will come out. Snap-On used to sell a 'magic' torque wrench. It worked on this concept. They were great, but people used them when they shouldn't have... No, I don't trust my arm or elbow, I use a real torque wrench. I do not decrease torque values for applying anti-seize, there's enough spread on the torque range for a fastener that regardless if it was a dry or wet torque that was spec'd you will get away with it, UNLESS it is in some special cases with either low grade/super elastic bolts, or threading into soft metal castings, or you've got bolts/nuts with threads that could only be considered a class O fit. In those cases you have to be careful, as always THINK before you do something. Examples would be if you're threading into straight aluminum, or a poor grey iron casting with minimal engagement. Too tight is always better than too loose. An overtightened bolt will live, and undertightened one will either back out or break off, save for rare instances that mostly don't apply in automotive use. If you take your truck to a SAE certified mechanic, the chances are he will tighten everything with the impact set to 11. He does this all day. Either the bolt breaks off then, or it is fine. Is it right? Hell no, but it works.

Looks like a good candidate for a donor driveline for a MJ. Any chance somebody can 'accidentally' wrap that one around a pole so I can buy it for pennies? Just don't damage any of the moving parts.

I'm surprised there's no smoothies available. I'm guessing it's some weird metric bolt pattern? Those with some skinny lower profile tires would be a good start. I'd do that, and skirt the rear wheelwells. Also get one of those electric door popper setups for hot rods/Mexican cars, then take the doorhandles off and bondo the depressed area smooth. Rear window wiper, ditch that, along with the antenna. Ditch the badges. Passenger side rearview, garbage that too, along with the driver's side if that's legal in your area. I'd say definitely yes to the lowering springs, but there's a good chance you could just cut a coil off the ones you have and they'd be perfect.. After that you've really only got weight savings left as a viable option, so I'd say start with pulling the carpet and headliner. Maybe there's some stuff under the hood that you can trash, the A/C sounds pretty optional/detrimental and I'd probably start with that. I'd say you could definitely gut the power windows out of all the doors but the driver's, but check if that it legal first. Maybe replace the back seat with just some stretched canvas or something? I bet you could pull 400lbs out of the car if you try, maybe more. At least then you can tell anyone that questions you driving it that it is literally entirely about saving money on fuel. Because otherwise there is nothing redeeming about those cars.

Yeah, NTC means "Negative Temperature Coefficient" in reference to a thermistor. You should be able to see what resistance it is from that pin on the battery connector to the B- to get the room temperature resistance. Then just go buy a little resistor that is near that resistance or higher and wire it in on your new battery. You also can probably cut that old battery open and fish the thermistor out of it, if you want to be more proper. You're going to need the connector off it anyways. Edit, assuming the board you have is a multilayer or such and there is actually something hooked to the NTC+. Otherwise just nip the connector off your old battery and put it on the new one.

I debated it because a topper is nice half the time, and an open box is nice the other half... But I don't think one would hold up to the snow loading it would see here when I leave the truck parked outside. I've debated building something like a modular topper, say a steel frame with individual panels on it that can be removed. That way I could pull the topper off without other people/my hoist, 'fold it up' and store it in my shed. However that's just a thought for the time being.

Same but cheaper: https://www.ebay.com/itm/STAINLESS-RACING-MANIFOLD-HEADER-EXHAUST-FOR-91-99-JEEP-WRANGLER-CHEROKEE-4-0L/172820117735?_trkparms=aid%3D555018%26algo%3DPL.SIM%26ao%3D2%26asc%3D49923%26meid%3D19bfb96dc7e34250b87fcead6282ff11%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D3%26rkt%3D6%26sd%3D180803180801%26itm%3D172820117735&_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851 Tempted to order one for my MJ, for if I ever wind up going to a HO head on it.

That's the header I have on my XJ. You'll need the HO intake manifold and everything to make that work. It will not clear the Renix one. You will not get it to clear by grinding anything or lightly denting a primary tube on the header. I don't know if the collector flange is in the same location as a stock HO one is. I cut mine off and put a V-band flange on it because I needed the clearance to get a flex pipe in before it would foul my driveshaft. I added a stainless O2 bung from Summit as well. BTW, it is actually made mostly of 3XX stainless. The flange is 4XX I believe. It's amazing how cheap you can build a header when barefoot children are bending the tubes and welding them together in a dirt floor tin shed in China.

You've got three wires on your current battery and only two on the replacement. What is the third wire for? I'm guessing there's a thermister in there to monitor temperature during charge. You likely will not get the battery to charge without it, although you can probably use a resistor to simulate it.

Thanks, just used it.

That's cool.

How much oil is it consuming? You don't have any other leaks, back of the valve cover, rear main, timing cover, filter adapter, etc? Blowby into the air filter/airbox? That could just be that you need to go to the new style PCV setup...

Maybe on the WJ? I don't recall how they're set up. The ZJ still uses a manual tensioner, it's a lot nicer setup than in the XJ though.

I'm curious to see the gears/carrier out of the axles. I'm wondering if they have better bearings or a third pinion bearing to make them live, as they are smaller than the last generation. There may be more hypoid offset, based on how high that high pinion looks. Those inner Cs look beefy. The knuckles themselves, I would wait on that one. I would not be surprised if Crane and Reid are making replacements in short order. Better brackets is great, too bad they're boat anchors, like on the JK. Tube improvement is good, but not surprising, the weak tubes were costing Chrysler money as they had to warranty axles over it. CAD sucks, one more thing to go wrong. I'm sure there will be delete kits for it in a hurry. However it looks like it hangs down too, at least on the old CAD XJ axles you weren't really losing any clearance to using them.

IMHO, and we're into the whole can of worms that oil is, you would have been a lot less likely to see that issue with a full synthetic. The Valvoline is a decent product. Mobil1, Quaker State, and *gasp* even Pennzoil make some quality full synthetics.