DirtyComanche

They're one time use. Cut it off and get a new one. Any decent parts store has them. Leaf spring center pin is the correct term. Normally the head has a slot in it though... It's just to hold it to tighten it though. Edit - Often you don't have to put a new center pin in when doing a SOA, as the diameter of the nut is normally the same as the pin head. But it would be more correct to change it out. I honestly couldn't tell you if I did or not when I did the SOA on my current MJ though.

Doesn't to me.

Hope it works out better than the last one I recall being stolen off here, which was torched.

Happens a lot actually. The windshield will take a chip or have small crack near the edge during the summer and it will go unnoticed until the first cold morning when you turn the defroster on. You can actually catch it as it spreads and "push" the crack to change the direction and force it back to the edge, otherwise often it will crack from one end of the windshield to the other. The joys of winter.

I've had decent luck with aftermarket senders. They're a pretty simple part to build... Just don't buy the lowest end garbage (SMP T-series, Rugged Ridge/Omix-ADA, BWD... Oh wait, I actually have a BWD one in my MJ right now, but still, don't buy that crap). I'd hit it with an IR gun first to see if the thermostat is the wrong one or sticking, or just pull the housing and look. Lots of guys throw the wrong (160, 180, not a 195) tstat in these things. And yeah, the cheapest of the cheapest tstats will give you nothing but trouble too. There's a good chance the temperature switch for your electric fan is dead too. At least, most of the ones I encounter are. Or it is just not warm enough for it to come on. Did you get the clutch bled better? They're a pain.

A 2wd OBS XJ... The best you can hope is it's parked in the 'back forty' somewhere. That's not exactly a desirable vehicle for 99% of people. I do wonder whatever happened to the 89? 4dr XJ I had. Last seen on the side of the road with a massive puddle of ATF under it...

There's also options for bucket seats, which is my preference.

Yup, they're Barbie Jeep accessories, IMHO. Use a normal cheap plastic can that you can buy at Walmart for $10 so it can be easily replaced when the tweakers steal it. Not that this reply helps at all.

Ouch, but yeah, looks fixable. That's shame it was so minty. Is calling the cops on your own single vehicle accident a good idea there? Here they would just write you a nice fat ticket for your efforts, then call flaggers and tow truck so you get to eat that bill too... When I rolled my Dodge I was adamant that they would not be calling a tow truck for me as the vehicle was not on the road, which saved me $1000 or so as I used my BCAA (AAA).

I don't understand how it could vibe that bad. My XJ has Energy Suspension poly motor mounts (don't buy them, they're a nightmare to install) and they do not transmit vibrations that are really worth noting. It's not like an OEM mount, but not much worse. And chance you bumped a plug wire or something when installing them, and the engine is actually running really rough?

Should work. Interchangeable P/N on Summit, which has a lot of positive reviews: https://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/pwm-7294/overview/ Or more amps or more money: https://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/pwm-57295/overview/ There's other options in there if you look for a 12si alternator.

Is that a v belt accessory drive? There's a good chance it's only a 60~amp alternator then, but again it's basically a GM alternator so you can get a larger one from another application. And there's aftermarket setups available. I'm not very familiar with the 2.5L, or the pre-87 XJ/MJs, but I know there was multiple accessory styles and alternators used. Optima's build quality and QC went to crap some years back and I don't trust that they have rectified the issues, and they were denying warranty claims all over. IMHO they command a very premium price for a product that is not superior. Odyssey/Sears Platinum AGMs are a superior product for a lower price, and there is certainly many other AGMs on the market. Optimas are actually a gel cell/spiral wound setup, which IMHO makes no damn sense anyways. That said, there is absolutely no need for 95%+ of people to spend the money on an AGM battery, personally I like them a lot as they perform better, do not cause corrosion, and won't leak if you're way off camber, but high quality flooded lead acid batteries certainly work and they do cost less money. I think most OEMs (save hybrids and electric vehicles) still use flooded lead acid batteries, so they can't be that bad. I only have one battery on that vehicle (it's actually an XJ). The inner fenders are stretched and a battery would not fit in the stock location or the other side. I do not believe in mounting batteries in the passenger area of a vehicle, so I had to find somewhere it would fit. Much trial and error lead to that location. Of the dual battery vehicles I have owned I have never run an isolator. An isolator is for if you want to have a starting battery, and a 'house' battery to run accessories while the engine is off, as this will mean you will not inadvertently kill your starting battery. There is no advantage, in fact there is only disadvantage, to having an isolator in a situation where the second battery is not being used as a house battery; being that you've complicated the system, increased costs, added a failure point, and decreased the ampacity of the wiring install as a whole. If the second battery is being used as a house battery it is also typically/recommended to use a deep cycle battery, which may or may not be suitable for all usage. Unless you're planning to do a lot of long pulls while winching, a second battery is rarely needed. It may be an unneeded expense and complication for you. Also, as Jtrux is implying, the output of an alternator at idle is much less than maximum (a 60 amp alternator may put out a measly 15 amps at idle), and a high idle/throttle lock/hand throttle will go a long ways to allowing the alternator to perform better. That said, if you've got a wimpy alternator, a second battery will certainly bandaid the situation decently. What winch are you buying? And an ammeter is IMHO a silly do-dad at best. I'm assuming you actually have a working voltage gauge or charge indicating light.

What year and engine? I'm going to answer assuming it's a Renix 4L since that's most common. 1) All factory ones are small, 105A I think? Works fine. Some aftermarket rewinds are more or less. It's actually a slightly modded GM alternator, so you can use a GM one to get more jam... 2) Group 34 is about what you can do 3) Something AGM, not Optima. 4) Mean Green probably still sells a kit, I think it's rubbish, it mounts the second battery sideways (like, on it's side) or some garbage. If you remove the airbox you can build (or buy a euro diesel XJ tray) and fit another one on that side. I relocated mine to against the firewall, so it could be used as a second battery location, but you can't run A/C if you do that, and it required a lot of fab work. 5) Back to the battery with the negative. I recommend having a disconnect in the works with winch wiring. AMP makes some nice ones, I could dig up some P/Ns and pics of how I did it on my JK probably. Relocated battery at firewall:

Of course you can, since the 9" is typically a cheap axle to build. If you want it with 5x4.5" bolt pattern and disk brakes (with a parking brake), it's going to start to get expensive. Or you could spend more on just a 9" third than that axle is, if you want. It's apples to bananas, some people prefer one over the other. IMHO I'd be hard pressed to spend that money on a D44, but then I've probably got $1500 into my own D44... And the as-pulled XJ axle I started with was free.

There's an ATP cable that I used, it's listed on Rockauto. P/N Y914. It's like $15 US, and it's plenty long.

Good to know. I can buy those then.

I'm not home but can almost guarantee they're a smaller metric thread. M8 maybe. Might be able to drill out and tap the inserts over to the larger SAE size.

The problem with the hockey puck is attaching it suitably. I bolted them in on my XJ, but it has totally different coil buckets since it's a Ford axle, I added a captive nut when I put the brackets on for that purpose. I didn't want to use hockey pucks, but I had them and I needed to do something as 37" tires and 3" of lift is a terrible idea without suitable bumpstops. I don't know if it would be easy to bolt something through the stock lower coil buckets. Next time rather than a hockey puck I would just buy some round stock and cut it to the length I wanted, drill through it, countersink/counterbore it, and bolt it on. It's not like you're getting any awesome compressional cushioning properties out of the hockey puck anyways. I never got back to doing anything about this on my MJ. So I'm curious if there is a solution. I need 2" or so more bumpstop than I have, leaving the swaybar on is all that stops me from really mangling things.

I guess that's kinda the nuclear option for repairing a crack around the hinge. I'd probably put the door in the right place with plastic wedges/tape/wood shims, then see where the hinge is sitting. Make sure the latch/striker is rigged right and not worn out before doing this. You're going to need a shim between the hinge and that repair plate you've put in there, as it is now closer to the vehicle centerline than it should be. I'd probably try sticking the fender in place too before committing to anything, but I assume you're planning to just bolt that on so you can change it later.

Probably not. I stand by the numbers in the first post, which are for low option/stripper models, but consider nothing to be gospel unless I weighed it myself. Throw your added junk (tools, jack, girlfriend, etc) on a good digital scale and you'll be surprised how fast it adds up. I got sick of the wildly varying numbers I got for the weight of everything under the sun and bought a strain gauge for my hoist.

Is it actually dead? Most of them are pretty rock solid...

Renix speedo is an entirely mechanical cable drive and no information for the purposes of operating the engine or transmission is gathered from it.

I named my XJ "The little blue pill" because it was light blue, and yeah, it's a reference to Pfizer's 'wonder drug' for erectile dysfunction. I mean, it's not exactly a great name, I think I was drunk or something. My 88 MJ is officially Tu-Ukumah. Named after Black Horse, a Comanche war chief. The Gladiator is just "The Gladiator". There isn't enough of them around to confuse people. I call my JK either "Pumpkin" because of the colour, or "The Ghey-kay" to annoy other JK owners. The 76 GMC plow truck is "Operation Plowshare" because the build was similarly full of poorly thought out ideas as the actual Operation Plowshare.

I've had snow at home for a long time. No pics, just believe me.

Clickspring. Here's the 5th part of him building the Antikythera Mechanism: I also really like Curious Droid's musing on space stuff: