DirtyComanche

I believe somebody on Pirate4x4 called the guy, and he said he would take $7000 that day. He knows its overpriced badly and is just fishing. Besides, it's got a freaking Peugeot.

If you had a Youtube channel dedicated to modding Jeeps with 20k+ subscribers and regularly pulling in 40K views per video, I bet they would, assuming you promised to only speak positively of their products. Or if you competed regularly at events they might consider it, but I wouldn't expect a lot out of them for that as they aren't really marketing to the higher performance crowd and I suspect they already have as many people sponsored as they would like for that. Otherwise they aren't going to care. They're an established company, the return vs cost for sponsoring some random person is simply not there. I've never been sponsored. I have friends that were/are, and it's something of a pain in the @$$, the sponsor will wind up dictating what can be used in the build in exchange for providing only certain parts of the build or parts at a discount/cost. One of my friends wound up running an original Elocker because of his sponsor, and he lost races due to the reliability issues they had.

He might need a large slide hammer too... Or to push the hubs out using a punch/bolt and the power steering. Personally I normally just use the slide hammer. I antiseize the hub bore in the knuckle when reassembling. They come apart easier the next time that way. No point changing the whole knuckle unless things are really mangled on the knuckle itself. That said, the early 'windowed' knuckles are the weakest of the lot, and I regret not throwing later knuckles on my axle for a couple reasons.

I'm not.

Schrodinger and his damn cat has visited this thread.

Looks like a solid starter. The PO probably meant they put a "long block" in it (remanufactured bottom end), as opposed to an "iron block" as all 4.0s are iron. But, you never know. 87 is a Renix injection engine. Hope you own a multimeter.

Video doesn't play for me, but I'm running NoScripts so that's normal. Looking at the spec list the thing I find weird is swapping a NSG370 in. I rate the thing barely higher than the SM465, and certainly below the AX-15. I guess the AX-15 wouldn't likely be happy with the power they're making, but there would be better choices.

No, that AA kit won't fix your problem. Or I don't think it will. The YJ/TJ mount is located differently than the XJ, and the assembly is not interchangeable (or not intended to be). I actually was going to try using a TJ mount for my AX-15, but it looked like the crossmember wasn't going to hit any of the correct holes on the uniframe, and it was probably going to put the driveline way too high in the tunnel. As far as the crossmembers go, they are all the same EXCEPT the AX-15 version (and maybe the NV3550, I've never seen one though). The AX-15 version has a 1"~ dropped section in the middle of it for more clearance. You don't actually need the AX-15 crossmember when swapping in an AX-15, but there's a but on that. With my 88 I used an AW4 crossmember (or whatever, the non-AX-15 one), partially intentionally because you can tuck the driveline up that extra inch without huge issues, it may rub some things and you might have to clearance the shifter hole some. However, I also converted an AW4 mounting plate into an AX-15 one (welding required), since I didn't feel like finding one and was in a hurry, and I may have built it a little out of spec compared with an actual one. It wound up moving the driveline even higher (maybe another half inch), and I've had to trim the shifter hole and the actual shift tower, plus there's some other rubbing... Just track down the right parts from a junkyard and it will all go together without hassle. Don't be like me.

If you want to save it, just weld a nut to it and back it out. Shock cool it or wick some wax into it if it's really stubborn. But as said, it's a strap yoke, not really worth bothering.

100%, and they had "square headlights" so they weren't real Jeeps, were a disgrace to the brand, and everything about them sucked and their owners were a bunch of [insert derogatory stereotypes].

Wish I owned something as nice as one of those!

Until Jeep builds something and uses LJ as the production code. IMHO they should have just referred to it as a TJU like the whole JK/JKU thing, yeah, I know they didn't realize at the time... but it would make more sense.

Yeah, but not LJ. I think I'm satisfied that I was correct that "LJ" was entirely fabricated by owners and picked up on by the aftermarket to differentiate the TJ from the TJ Unlimited.

Good info, thanks!

How is it as far as the lighting goes? I find most of the cheap stuff is blindingly bright. If it can be set to be reasonably dim, it sounds like a unit that would work great.

I've heard nothing but good things about that 3M gun.

Quite possibly. Then throw a aux in and USB pigtail on it and hide them in the center console or something... It's not really the solution I'm looking for, but it could be neat.

I'm actually kinda tempted to buy one of these: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JJXBBSY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_FuSCzbY2TBYEV I just don't know how you would make it look right in the dash.

If you don't need a conventional head unit, there is some options from the marine world... Give me a minute and I'll find out.

Could be okay. I'd have to see it in person. It still plays CDs, like I said, obsolete, no idea why anyone wants that. I'd like a unit without it since then there's no moving parts, it should be cheaper, and it will likely survive being vibrated on gravel roads better.

I guess I should mention my major aggravation with the current unit I have (IIRC it's an older/5+ years Alpine or Kenwood, honestly forget) is it causes massive light pollution in the cab, even when fully dimmed. That's part of what I want to avoid.

Link takes me to random things...

This one looks kinda alright: https://www.alpine-usa.com/product/view/ute-62bt/

So, it's not 1994 anymore. CDs are obsolete, kaput, like the Dodo. I still have some somewhere but I assure you I don't miss them. Is there a head unit that does not play CDs (and thus is hopefully a little more shallow), is well built, has a decent amp in it, has a user interface that isn't retarded, has front USB/Aux in, and isn't lit up like a goddamn Christmas Tree? And no, not looking to mod a factory radio. I just want something that will drop in and work, that I can just order from Amazon/Walmart/Best Buy, without me having to mess with it too much beyond sorting out the wiring.

Yeah, with the automatic the converter will be unlocked basically the entire time you're wheeling, so there will be lots of slip and higher revs the entire time... Thus worse fuel economy.