DirtyComanche

Might just be an arrow. I hope you didn't throw out that box off the one you scrapped.

If it doesn't boil over or blow coolant out of the rad with the cap off, it can't be getting that hot. If it's getting hot and the water pump is dead, it will heat the coolant above boiling in the block and when you pull the cap off it will flash to steam and blow coolant everywhere...

Yup, that needs a cleanup.

That section would probably blind you if it was silver...

Looks good on those 35s.

Especially when you're going from a cold place to a hot place... All the problems of your cooling system are suddenly exposed.

Those solenoids do tend to fail. Lots of guys upgrade to solid state contactors instead.

Good thing it's only got like 63HP, or those portals would get destroyed.

It's good to know that Walker stuff fits that well. Is it all aluminized pipe, or is it just bare steel? It's a little unclear on their site, but it looks like it has some sort of coating on it in your pictures.

Wow, that track bar bolt, no surprise you had death wobble. That radiator looks a little crusty, and like it has seen some trauma (cores squished together at the top). However, I would be tempted to leave it... At the same time, you should look at your coolant pressure bottle, if it's looking like it's starting to crack (they all do eventually) it might make sense to just order up a newer style radiator, a universal overflow bottle, and convert it to an open system. Maybe. Maybe throw some new loom over that wiring harness that's exposed (in front of the radiator), if that gets chafed it can easily short out and melt the whole mess into a blob... Make's for a bad day.

I don't recall them being any harder than anything else, but I'm used to having to put vaseline on my arm so I can get it through an undersized access hole to get at some fastener that nobody has ever actually laid eyes on. I normally get at them from the top, not lying under the truck. Firstly pull more stuff out of the way for access if you haven't already. The airbox is the obvious big thing, but even things like the washer bottle being out of there might allow you to get a better angle. You can try a magnetic extension or two, like these: https://www.mactools.ca/en-ca/NoValue/NoValue/f0b0964e-1523-48c8-aac4-a2fb01851610/Magnetic-Extensions That way you can just fish the socket/bolt with a short extension on it to where it needs to go, then turn the extension with your fingers to start the bolt. You can also tape the bolt into a socket and do the same thing. Even a wobble/ujoint socket. You can also sometimes just stick the bolt on the end of a telescoping magnet and finagle it into place and turn it with the magnet, you definitely won't cross thread it if you do that.

Yes, a comealong being ejected at highway speed could be pretty spectacular.

I like how this got hijacked into a beer thread. I used to drink that all the time when I worked in PA. Can't get it west of the Mississippi I'm told, and I've certainly looked. I quite enjoyed it for being a competitively priced brew.

You'll be into it for a bunch of time, but what the hell.

True. I've never understood why people choose to drink Bud here when it's at a premium price.

I believe those tabs take the place of the problematic plastic clip. That said, you're trading one evil for another.

There's lots of good beer available in the US now.

What are you going to do for suspension then? 33s are a good choice for keeping the front axle alive, IMHO. Update us on that E-locker, curious how well it holds up. I really like electric lockers in general, unfortunately lots of them aren't built that well (Eaton has gone through 3 or 4 revisions of that locker, at least).

That winch looks brand new again.

Installing o-rings dry is asking for them to catch, roll over, and split/tear. I use light silicone grease most of the time, but a drop of clean motor oil or even a tiny squirt of WD-40 will save you a lot of trouble.

eBay for the injectors, get used cleaned/flowchecked ones. New injectors are either a ton of money or garbage. What year is it? I think you probably have more issues.

I've got at least 3 'spare' Renix clusters, but all of them have issues, near as I remember I don't have any HO ones sitting around. They're easy to find though. So I should be able to pick one up and piece this together at some point. The fuel gauge is the kicker because it mounts totally different and is reversed between the Renix and HO. The Renix fuel gauge resistance range is officially 0-88ohms (empty to full). Measuring mine it is much more like 0-99ohms (it does show being beyond the F mark when full), which conveniently corresponds with the old standard GM senders and gauges, so there's about a million aftermarket gauges that will probably work fairly well with the Renix sender. Worst case they'll show not quite full.

Bump this in two weeks and I'll do it.

I'd pour that stuff in a radiator before I drank it, so no, I'd not call that redneck. Redneck would be drinking all of it, and then filling the radiator with what results from rapidly drinking beer.

No, it's on it's own separate circuit, has it's own switch, relay, etc. Lots of the time something is wrong with the circuit or fan itself, and nobody does anything about it because it isn't really needed other than on really hot days when loading the cooling system heavily. If it's not actually getting hot, it won't come on anyways. I'm guessing you have a bad gauge or sender, or there's a wiring/ground issue on it that's making it read erroneous. Senders are cheap and easy to change, I'd try that first.