DirtyComanche

Not really. Those are heims or rod ends, and aren't really comparable to a typical tie rod end setup. What you have is possibly stronger, but will suffer wear issues much quicker.

I'd just go SOA in the rear, then match the front to whatever that worked out to, then bumpstop as required and/or add springs or spacers to get it to exactly where you want it. However, if you want to do zero cutting or trimming, I'd just about guarantee you will need 6" lift and about 5" worth of bumpstops.

You need to see where the wires actually go. Yes, they may have used it to bypass the starter/ignition relay, which would be absolutely stupid but it wouldn't be a first, since all that stuff would have cost more money and been a big PITA compared with just swapping out the relay. What is still hooked to the starter relay? There should be a green (IIRC) wire from the center pin on it to actuate the starter solenoid, if that's still hooked to the starter solenoid then it's not that... Also could have been a charging or isolation system for a camper or trailer battery... There is a good chance that if it was for some piece of equipment that was removed, that the wires off it are just cut off and taped over somewhere.

Top one appears to be an old style starter solenoid, generic GM/Ford/Chrysler sort of a part, although most of them normally have 4 contacts. If that's the case, it's just missing the "I" contact, which wasn't always used. The other two look like they're self resetting thermal breakers (often referred to as fuses, but they don't fuse). Is there an inverter wired in the truck? Big HAM or VHF radio? Or some sort of device that needs a lot of power? It looks like it is set up to provide a switchable power supply that likely is keyed to the ignition. Of course without actually seeing where the wires go, who knows.

Do you know anyone that lives close to a Mexican border town or visits there regularly? It is the place to get good quality chroming done. Otherwise phone your local heavy equipment dealers and see who they use for cylinders, they may still be dealing with a semi-local shop.

You're viewing in mobile? The desktop site isn't too bad, but you pretty much need adblock. Once a forum gets sold to VerticalScope they just bleed it dry...

Interesting way to do it. I'll watch the videos in a bit here, but please post the rest of it.

Made in the USA, with global components...

He has bedsides, but he forms them in a brake rather than with a die. So they do not have the wheel arches, or corners, they're just a basically flat piece that's been bent with the basic body lines (he cuts a wheel well out of them, but it's just an opening, no edges or anything).

There's no off the shelf flare that will fit that. I'd Flexy Flare it. Or maybe it's Flexi-flare.

The Timken wheel bearings are only $83 Canadian from Rockauto... That's like $65~ US... https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=1117784&cc=1179705&jsn=431 And if you have to go cheap there is some Mevotech ones for $35~ US each, at least that's the route I'd go out of the economy brands they have listed.

First I would check the cranking voltage output from the CPS. Lots of the aftermarket ones are junk, there is no saying you didn't get one that's bad out of the box, or that it isn't too far from the flywheel. After that, the ICM is kinda the only big component left in the ignition system. Since I have a spare, I'd try swapping it first. If I didn't, I'd probably chase some wires. You should be able to get a FSM with decent wiring diagrams off Cruiser's site.

97+ XJ, the redesigned body style. So 97 until 2001 or whenever they happened to stop making them. If you want to use that HO engine, you're probably best to swap it and the transmission and all the wiring and controls in, which means you're going to want the tcase too since your current one is 21 spline input, so you'd need to find one with the 4.0/AW4/NP242, which isn't rare so it should be doable. This is helpful if you want the newer "nicer" interior, as it means you can do the swap as a full feature affair and everything will work. 98ish? (somebody correct me if I'm wrong) they went to coil pack ignition, which is a worthwhile thing to have, but they changed to the 0331 head as part of this. The early 0331 heads were bad, and they've all either cracked or will crack. The factory fix was a later casting which was still an 0331 but had "TUPY" cast into it as well, who knows what that means but they did fix the cracking problem. (and Omega replied just as I was going to hit reply)

Time to swap a new harness in?

So you want a 97+ HO so you can steal the interior and get a few more ponies out of it? Because the interior really didn't change until then, it's all just minor differences or colours. Just don't get a donor motor with a 0331 head that doesn't have 'TUPY' on it.

I love it, and the name.

Neat Wildernest topper.

And they're called stovers by most people...

Stover. They're kinda the better self locking nut.

Yar.

I don't know the answer to that either. I've never owned one. But I'm sure a higher trim 4runner or Lexus whatever would have power mirrors.

When I reply using my phone I tend not to proofread to see if what I wrote actually makes a lick of sense. Anyways, somebody should go grab an early 90s Toyota mirror to see if they can fit.

I've always thought he was a colossal idiot but I generally refrain from saying so. Anyways, I think it makes my point that an LS swap is not just that easy.

I dated a girl with a 91 Toyota. She had a set of chrome mirrors on it and promised to give them to me when she found black ones. If you put them side by side XJ mirrors they look like they could be twins, but the Toyota ones are maybe a little bigger. But she was insane, so we broke up before I got the mirrors. I wanted them only for research purposes and I'm not going to go buy a set to see it they fit. So basically I have nothing to contribute. But if you want some rounded new style chrome mirrors, Toyota may be the answer.

I was trying to get a set of early 90s Toyota mirrors to try. They come in chrome. Looks like a very similar shape to the 97+ mirrors and 3 bolt mount. Unfortunately she was crazy and we broke up. I don't feel like paying money for mirrors that likely won't work. Maybe another time.