DirtyComanche

I have an accent that's a bit weird because I live and work in northern Canada but grew up in the southern BC interior. So it's mostly a western Canadian accent but I say some things... differently. I slowed my speech down a bit for it as I think there is people that would have trouble understanding me, but that's a bit of a fine balance and something I want to work on. Again, learning experience. And yes, the difference between my accent and an eastern Canadian accent is fairly apparent. Then we have the Quebecois and the Newfies, I'm half convinced that a Quebecois speaking French is closer to what we would call English, than a Newfie speaking 'English' (Newfanese) is. Throw in the natives (who I spend lots of time talking with) and it gets really weird. And in retrospect that welding scene dragged on... The actual time it took to weld that dragged on. I cut the others down more, and you're right, I probably could have dumped a fair amount of that.

Let us know what you find out. I thought they came either either the Chryco 8.25 or the D44HD (which is an odd duck of an axle, and not to be confused with the old D44HDs). A lot of AAM stuff is a bit of a pain because there is little aftermarket support, similar to the D44HD...

I think my take on video length may differ from others because I primarily view Youtube as entertainment, I rarely go to it to answer how to do something. When I watch stuff on Youtube I will ride my stationary bicycle (it's like a town bicycle but less fun), and watch for a half hour to two hours. Hence some of the things I have suggested in the Youtube thread on here are typically staggeringly long episodes (Bad Obsession Motorsports, Isaac Arthur) or they're something where you can easily just watch 5 or 6 different videos from one videographer. I didn't really intend for this video to function as any sort of a how-to, it was more of a "this is what I did" and there's enough information that if you know the basics of fabricobbling you could do something similar (or better). I actually hate short videos and only make a few exceptions in what I normally watch (Vintage Space because Amy is hottt).

Thanks Hornbord. I spent a ton of time trying to cut it down so it was fast enough to not be boring. My worst fear was making some heavy breathing, white noise infested, long winded video with too much time spent on one thing or long awkward scenes of pretty much nothing. I've still got a ton to learn, so most of this was really just figuring out the best way to film things, and the editing software, audio, etc. I did it in Davinci Resolve. The titles were one of the first things I did since it was at the start of the video, and at the end I wasn't happy with them but decided to avoid redoing them for the time being. There's definitely better ways to do them in Davinci. It was filmed in 720P, I would have to buy a new camera to film in 1080 or 4K. I felt if this went over well enough and I was happy with what I was capable of making, investing some money in better gear would be on the table. To me there wasn't much point buying a nice camera and then going "Well, I sure hate doing that" and leaving it in a box until it was outdated and worthless. The other problem is that what I am doing is hard on the camera, grinding/welding/etc isn't the nicest thing; I need to look into what guys are doing to protect their lens, etc when filming this stuff. The other thing is you can clearly see the artifacting when welding, the camera simply isn't good enough to deal with the intense light output of the arc. So, anyways, in summary the hardware I have is limited, I'll do the next video with it (it's already mostly filmed and partly thrown together) and then I will decide if an upgrade is in order or if this was a part of my life that will be forgotten in 10 years. The audio also was not as good as I would have liked, due to two distinct hardware limitations. The camera I filmed with being one (it struggles with the sounds of the arc, and a few other things), and the other that I actually have a proper condenser microphone for recording narration, but I forgot a needed cable and couldn't source one in a timely manner, so I used a much cheaper microphone and spent more time and labour cleaning it up to be acceptable. I know what you're saying about the length, but I am totally unwilling to cut a video into two parts when it is focused entirely on one subject. However, this project spiraled a bit I intend to keep the next one at around 10 minutes max, which I think is a little more reasonable for most casual viewers. I'll also try to keep the projects organized and limited to a scope that allows this. I'm torn on spoilers, IMHO leaving the preview thumbnail as that is something of a spoiler and hopefully work without outright showing the finished product... I actually intend to upload as a proper thumbnail instead of a Youtube generated one at some point, and to do so in the future with any other videos I upload. It's something I will play with though. Thanks man. The cross border shipping would kill you though.

I've thought about that. I think for the floor you might better off coating it with some good quality epoxy paint or bedliner just to ensure it is sealed, then putting a rubber mat over it. I'd say doing the trans tunnel, firewall, cab walls, roof, etc with a Dynamat type product would probably be fine, you should be able to get it to adhere with almost no air gaps, and there shouldn't be a risk of pooling water (and salt, the other big thing) getting trapped behind it. A guy might be well off to seal up any unused holes in the firewall or whatever though, and this would be a good idea for fighting general sound intrusion anyways. Resonance on the floor shouldn't really be a huge problem, providing it's just the footwell area that you don't cover, and like I say you have a rubber mat over it (which could even be over your rubber flooring or carpet). Once you stop panels from resonating, and cut noise from leaking in through air gaps, it's mostly just adding mass that makes the difference. Hence a thick rubber floor should do a good job. Adding some foam type insulation can filter out some higher frequency sounds, but that's not normally the noise Jeep owners are annoyed by (we hear the lower frequency tire and engine noises mostly, because our tires and engines are loud). There's good info here: https://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/ As you can see, they don't bother to cover every square inch of metal with a material like Dynamat, as it isn't actually necessary to control resonance. Getting the decoupled mass loaded vinyl over every square inch does much more.

I'm looking for critical feedback. This is only really the second video I've made. What do you hate? Is it boring? Does my fabricobblication make babies cry? Disclaimer, I rendered and uploaded it and didn't actually watch it through to make sure it didn't corrupt.

Some forums actually have the "Likes" or "Likes/Dislikes" shown, I'm thinking you can integrate that through Crapatalk. Not sure though.

I don't know why more people aren't into this. It's actually interesting racing. Meanwhile NAPCAR can pack a million people around a track.

Is it still valid? I need a wiring harness too... And about a million other things. Edit, $90 in shipping on that harness, neeeevvvvvveeeerrrrrrmind. I wonder about eBay sometimes though. It's kinda convenient, but at the same time it isn't because I'm counting on the seller to actually ship promptly and their international shipping warehouse to actually deal with it quickly. I needed a shifter boot for a NV4500 GMT-400 truck, found one on there for $80 US (junkyard pulled), offered the guy $25, he countered with $70. Whatever, it's not worth near that, figured maybe he would cave... Got an email that it sold for $68 US. WTF? Who pays that for a junkyard shift boot from a 95ish Chevy truck.

That's good to know.

The HO alternator should work find with a good external regulator... So it's kinda either or. I guess there is still potential that the PCM is fine and somebody just butchered the wiring because of bad troubleshooting.

You can basically run the Renix alt as a 1-wire. I think I had mine switched to the ignition or master disconnect on my old MJ, but I don't believe it needs to be as it's like any other CS-130 and shuts the field off if there's no rotation (or whatever magic goes on there).

I'm not him, but if you're sure you don't want it you can tap the hole in the intake to 3/8 (IIRC) NPT and just thread a pipe plug into it.

This.

I wouldn't be surprised if the Mahindra dealer could just order them in. If they can't, they should fix that. Anyone that uses one in the winter would appreciate them.

Allegedly they planned to sell those in the US market at one point, but the whole crash safety standards things (NHTSA?) shut that down before it could happen.

I have to agree, but I want to see pictures of this D60 rear in a MJ. Along with the BOM number on it so we can find out what it's actually from. If you want to enter the world of bizarre, you can bolt the right GM 10.5" 14 Bolt rear in a MJ with 'literally' no modifications beyond ubolts/plates to fit the 3-5/8" tubes (and a slightly longer brake hose, maybe the shock mounts don't work as I'll admit I didn't try that, and a conversion ujoint again with the caveat that I didn't try that so the driveshaft is likely the wrong length). That wouldn't make it factory though, and it's obviously not to anyone that knows anything about MJs.

That makes perfect sense.

Looking good. Interesting intake mod there, was there a reason to not use a factory one? I love your rubber floor... Wish mine had one.

So they're likely Venezuelan market only and unless I want to dodge gunfire from feuding druglords I'm probably not going to see one. 10-4.

Green Mesa is on the numbers there. Personally I would not buy a diesel one and plan on driving it long term, even if it is currently working. However, they're extremely rare, so it's unlikely you'll run into one. Parts aren't really available, and they have massive inherent weaknesses. Since it's very unlikely you are looking at buying one of these, that's all I will say. The 2.8L GM V6 is a pile. Be very cautious if you buy one. If it has been kept in good shape they are pretty easy to work on, and it will run a long time if you baby it though. Personally I'd only ever buy one if planning to swap the engine out. The 2.5L was by far the best engine offered in those years. As Green Mesa says, they're good quality but lacking in power. If you're not needing to boot it onto the interstate or pulling a trailer, they're perfectly fine though. Honestly, the MJ/XJ chassis is very easy to work on (the MJ is easier than the XJ even) and there is a massive amount of aftermarket support for the XJ along with a little for the MJ. So everything but some of the MJ specific parts are easily enough sourced. Most autoparts stores will stock nearly every regular wear item. I spent a ton of money fixing up my 88 to daily drive it... But I modified a lot of stuff at the same time, and it was absolutely clapped out and undriveable when I bought it. If the truck you're looking at just needs some odds and ends, fluid changes, and a cleaning, you'll probably be able to get it back to roadworthy for only a couple hundred bucks. If it has been run long term with zero maintenance and hack modifications, costs might spiral...

Got a link?

Exactly, a guy could just put three little pigtails on it and terminate them into a Weatherpack/Molex/Amp/Deutz or whatever connector, so you could still pull the whole cluster out easily.

Good choice.

Fix your seals first. That's where most of the noise leaks in. I honestly don't think I'd be willing to use peel and seal... but I've thought about it before. B-Quiet Extreme is the bang for the buck stuff: https://www.b-quiet.com/collections/50-sq-ft-rolls/products/b-quiet-extreme-50sqft The performance of these products on a roof is minimal, it will just knock out some of the tinny sounds. Otherwise you need to add mass... There was a thread here that I started on that, I believe. If you to spray something into the B-pillar or whatever, there is sprayable products. I don't know how well any of them work, but Lizardskin seems to be the most commonly used. https://www.amazon.com/050220-Spray-Deadening-Unwanted-Vibration/dp/B001URKV0G https://www.summitracing.com/int/search/part-type/sound-deadening-coatings