cerial

Thank you for the help

8 year old thread; But on the roll pin you just use a pair of pliers off setting the teeth so one is higher then the other with something the size of the roll pin to push against the higher one. Then you just squeeze gently until the roll pin moves 1/4" out then pull the pin out the rest of the way with the pliers. When replacing the pin be careful of the O ring. It is easy to rip the o ring and If to rips they can sometimes be hard to find just a replacement o ring as it is some weird size.

I want to avoid having any air enter that main pump shortening the life as much as possible. It is only a $100 or so pump and I will carry a spare later on just in case to be able to change it in a lot or campsite if need be. But I want to avoid any kind of restriction or air entering that pump if at all possible and see this line as a possible weak link. I could sleeve my current or a new factory sending unit. Freeze a pipe and heat the other before sliding the 2 pieces together then solder the ends before putting 10psi into the new line to check for leaks. This is plan B as I don't like the idea of having any hose inside the fuel tank and any clamps or any possibility of air entering the line if I can avoid it. But if the one in the above link would work there is no need to have this sleeved section as it is one tube from ring to sock. The only difference I can seem to find in the mj tanks is that the 86/87 ones did not have the slosh plate. But That should not matter with the pickup right? It is the same basic bends. Correct?

Pulley clearance was the main reason I did it. I hate having to pull 3 things to get to a hose clamp kind of thing.

I want to avoid any rubber anything in the tank that would be submerged in fuel. Just install the pickup and I won't need to touch the thing unless the send unit goes out which is not something I see happening any time soon. Yes, I am using the Walbro to feed the carb. Actually the High pressure/flow Walbro feeds a 3 quart surge tank till full up to a point then a return line runs back to the main tank. The surge tank feeds a Low pressure mechanical pump and the engine. When I go fuel injection the 3 quart surge tank will have it's own inline fuel pump at lower pressure/flow then the main tank one with a return to the surge tank allowing me to kill the main tank pump and run off that 1/2 a gallon or so during the stupid angle stuff. Nothing I can do about the thing running out of oil. But this thing is just meant to run 200-250hp junk yard engines so I don't hurt the ax15. If I toast one I can throw in another and have the thing up and running that weekend. That's what has me confused. It might work. I am thinking it probably will work. But I just don't know about these to say it will without a doubt be the same. I'm ordering all this junk now while it is in the 20's so I can have everything ready once it gets closer to the 50's as this build is outside. It would really be a kick to the head if I put the thing up there and find out it is smaller then the efi one.

If you don't need your ac you can do what I did and move the radiator forward then install 2 modified GM factory fans(they were vertical I cut them down so they would be horizontal). It adds around 2" between the fans and radiator allowing you to actually reach things in front of the engine. I ran the transplanted 4.0 up and down the road for maybe 10 miles before a cheap used v8 conversion was offered and I jumped on it.

I have an 88 mj that is going 350 Chevy. Entire truck has been stripped electrical wise and is being upgraded. The 350 engine is carb with standalone efi being a option later. I have the fuel tank that runs down the drivers side. I have the 88 tank and sending unit and I am using a external Walbro to feed the throttle body with a return line running back to the tank. I want to eliminate the current in tank pump completely. Leaving just the sending unit in there which will run a speedhut fuel gauge. I am looking at installing a non efi fuel pickup like this; https://www.ebay.com/itm/1986-1987-Jeep-MJ-Comanche-18-23-5-gal-gas-tank-sending-unit-/391892643149?rmvSB=true But before I drop$75 plus locking ring/gasket and make a $100ish mistake plus down time to get other parts. I would like to know if there are any differences like baffles inside the tank or the locking ring being a different size between the 86/87 tanks and the 88-92 tanks. The tank I have has some heavy tank protection that basically welded to the frame around the fuel tank. Unless the thing is leaking I really want to avoid swapping it out any time soon. That being said if this pickup ring is say 1/4" smaller then the other one. I might consider just replacing the 88 tank with a new 86 one so everything goes in as I have planned. Thank you for any advise and help.

I am switching my dash over to full digital gauges and marine switches. 15 switches and 10 Gauges. All blue 2 to 4 number gauges. Getting close to hitting the buy button on everything. I am thinking of using this universal/programmable one for both the Fuel level and Oil temperature(I loose one gauge and it is close in color to the rest). http://www.egaugesplus.com/water-temperature--fuel-level.html# I have the 88 fuel sending unit and tank. I plan on leaving the original pump/sending unit in the tank and using a mechanical fuel pump to suck the fuel through the (dead) electric pump body into the mechanical one and to my carb. As far as resistance should I run new wiring all the way back to the pump? Or can I get away with simply use a female blade on the new gauge wiring and male blade on the old fuel wiring having it read correctly without a issue with the blades and resistance? If I am not powering on the pump will the fuel level still read correct? Thank you for your time and any help/advise you can provide.

I see that AC bracket sitting there all naked. Is on board air in the future?.

This^. Sliders eliminate stuff grabbing your shackles. I feel they also give a better ride.

Ask around for part outs. I know a few people that part out jeeps and managed to snag a pair of newish mounts and new bolts for $40. Get a long extension for removing the drivers side mount bolt and exhaust bolts from under the jeep. Impact sockets and an impact will make this job tons easier. If you have a floor jack you can remove the transmission cross member(after setting one side of driveshafts on the floor) and drop it down a few inches which will let you move the engine slightly higher for more room. Take a rag to the engine block/frame while the mounts are off. Buy new hardware and clean your threads. Great time to replace your oil pan gasket if it is leaking.

First check your fuel pressure at the rail and see if you have a regulator/pump out. Next test your injectors and the wiring to the injectors Test your crankshaft position sensor(by flywheel) and wiring Clean and tighten your ground strap(s) Test all the sensors/check wiring on the throttle body . You can be considerably off on the distributor and the thing will run. I think it is 20 degrees or such off the top of my head. The computer controls it using the crankshaft position sensor and cam sensor. If you are on the compression stroke, the distributor is aligned with the holes in the distributor plate, and all your sensors are working the thing will run. It might take several cranks for the computer to find the spot on the crankshaft position sensor on the flywheel but it will start and run if your sensors are good. If you have replaced the flywheel with a different one(someone will chime in here on what years are different)then the crankshaft position sensor has nothing or the wrong position to read and it will cause all kinds of headaches. What was the jeep doing before you began replacing parts? What year is the jeep/engine/and any modifications? Just cause parts are new does not make them good. I have bought new echlin parts at napa and had them be junk out of the box I have also had people give me the first part on the list thinking all 4.0's are the same. Unless you had trouble with your old parts try throwing them on and see if it corrects the issue. Check your part numbers if you still have the boxes or receipt first to see if you have the wrong part.

Fina a entire 2.5(or 4.0) Cherokee(rolled, frame rotted, engine blown, etc) then you will have all the many little parts you need. It might cost a bit more up front. But your going to have all the little things that will save you cash(and many trips to the junk yard) in the long run. If the frame is rotted/cracked or the thing had a light roll you can still drive it and test stuff this way also. You will have a load of extra parts that you can sell or "upgrade" the Comanche with.

I bought the truck with a 4.7 stroker. Had it for a month and went depth finding with the engine. Went out and grabbed a 93 4.0 dropped it in the truck running the renix system and it is more of a dog then I expected compared to the 4.7. I found someone with a mild 78 355 v8 w edel carb mated to a ax15 and bought that carb to pan, balancer to the front of the transmission. Then I bought Novak mounts,and a new slave/parts to mount it to the bell from AA. I am waiting on various new gaskets(while it's out), mechanical fuel pump, pump to carb line, autofab pins, 454 radiator, and dual electric fans to arrive. I am spending the cash to make this as "bolt in" as possible. The only exception is I am moving the (much larger) radiator to where the tailgate currently is. But that is so I can hide a winch behind the grill and have a flush to the grill bumper. Here is what I need and would like recommendations on. Throttle cable-I want something I can find at a parts store that I do not need to modify. Recommendations on modifying my stock tank pickup/pump.for mechanical pump (I do not want a electric pump/regulator) GM pump to jeep power steering box fittings(where to buy) Waterproof, mud proof, ice proof, heat proof starter/cs130 alternator recommendations (both mounted low) or just buy stock and replace it under "warranty"

Just read over that entire thread. My hood has a 2" scoop made by blue xj. If possum was able to cool his engine with the vents the 2' tall x15 or so wide scoop should have no problem getting the air out. He was using the 2.8 radiator and I am using the stock 4.0. My fans dual electric fans move much more air then the factory two did. I have 1/8 clearance all around my fans. The fans are 1/8 from the bottom, 1/8 from the bottom of the hood, 1/8 from the edges, and 1/8 from the radiator fins. I have a second controller cause they are way to much for the single 25 amp one. I think they will work. But I would prefer to run a 7 blade if it will fit in there. Not concerned about the marginal hp loss. The reliability is what I am after.. The clutch slave is the big thing here. If need be I will just use what advanced adapters recommends. But I can see that costing $500 or so where as I might be able to build one from factory parts and save a few hundred. What have you guys done for a clutch when using the ax15?