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About Vakarian

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  1. Appreciate that important reminder on the water Pete M. Thankfully we jury rigged the steering and was able to move it into the garage for ease of work.
  2. Rear ZJ disk brakes work but you may need to sand out the center some to fit over the axle shaft center depending on shaft manufacture. At least that was required for me and my new rear axle shafts that I bought for my rear disk conversion. Below is a list of parts I used to complete by conversion and will have to find the part numbers later when I get home, sorry for that inconvenience. However, I still am working on the parking brake setup currently as the wire connecting to the release handle snapped the last time I released my parking brake. AutoZone: 1998 ZJ Rear Rotors 1997 Ford Explore Rear Calipers New hard brake lines and fittings (not required but mine need to be replaced) NAPA: 1991 MJ/XJ Front Drive and Passenger Rubber Brake Lines. TeriFlex: spacer
  3. Thank you Pete M! I did not order a kit as I wanted to ensure the rotors were the same for all four wheels. I just bought the backing / parking brake plate separate forgetting the tapered spacer at first. Then just order new calipers and rotors from the local auto part store. Still working on the parking brake portion but still trying to determine how to replace the release handle as the cable snapped there.
  4. Hello everyone! I apologize for the all the info piled into this post. Been busy and forgot to update the progress of the truck. The truck got front axle reinstalled and moved into the garage for the work on the rear axle swap. Not focusing and remembering I forgot to take pictures of the process on the swap. DANA 44 Rear Axle So in the process of swapping in the new DANA 44, I replaced and upgrade the U-bolts. I ordered 5/8" diameter x 2-3/4" inside width x 7-7/8" long replacements from Plattsburgh Spring Inc [UBoltsDirect.com]. The bolts were larger then OEM and required a bit of grinding to open the spring plate holes some. For the new brake lines I went to NAPA and ordered new front brake caliper rubber lines for a Comanche/Cherokee to use in the rear calipers. All I had to modify to get the lines to work was cut off the joggle tab where the hard line connected for the driver side. For the passenger side the joggle tab gave a nice mounting hole to secure the connection. From there I learned that I am terrible at bending hard brake line but overall it worked out nicely. With the rear axle all that is left is to run the breather line up to the engine bay as a manifold is in the works for all the breathers. The manifold is a project for me to learn the end mill at work. As the brake lines were affected, I took the opportunity to replace/upgrade to a dual diaphragm brake booster. Booster is current now in temporary in place so I can work on determining the required brake line bend and lengths required in case the booster needs to be removed. Additionally, the area in front of the A/C fan was open and built a bracket to hold a relay box and additional pre-wired relay holders that attaches under the hood bar to hold it open. So with that you all are caught back up on the process of where the truck sits. Please let me know of your thoughts or feedback on the anything you see to help me improve the work being done. Thank you and have a wonder day / evening.
  5. Well truck has been down and set on front jack stands. Pulled in the driveway after work and more coolant poured out onto the ground. So out of frustration, I lift the front end and pulled the front axle out. Turns out after getting the axle out I noticed a lot replacing need to take place. So with that new bearing hubs and bolts, ball joints and upper control arm mounts were ordered because they were royally shot on the axle. Also planning on getting new calipers and rotors as the passenger side seemed ot have locked up on the rotor making a nice plateau. While waiting on the axle to get reared geared, I returned to finishing up the transmission. All the internals all back together waiting for the housing to go back on. The following pictures are before I completed putting the detente balls and springs back in. Otherwise I have been working on setting up a new relay box to handle the new lights within the bumper as well as later upgrades since currently the fog light wiring is tired down but is so unclean. I have been enjoying them till the axle got yanked out. First picture below is as I drive down my driving heading to work, while the second is on the main road. Well that is all for now while I continue to figure out why my truck keeps loosing coolant and work to replace the heater core and evaporator in my finance's Cherokee. Otherwise, have a great day everyone.
  6. Finally was able to get the Dana 44 re-geared by a local fellow I was recommended. The previous owner had started to do some work on it and took the brake drums to the dump, so I decided to covert the axle to rear disk brakes. I bought a kit online since the local junkyards were charging a large penny for the parts and for a little more could get new parts. Don't mind the messy garage, in the works of organizing, but my girlfriend got me differential covers as a gift. I saw a discussion and links on here regarding different covers for axles and I left the tab open. Well the kit for the disk brake conversion aligned and bolted up, but allowed a 1/4" of movement for the axle. So will be making a spacer at work via the water jet to take movement out. Additionally, I had to open up the center of the rotor allow it to sit properly on the axle shaft. One the spacer gets cut out , the axle will be completed and ready for install.
  7. Over the weekend I was finally I finished the overheating repairs. With the removal of the radiator required, I decided at the same time to upgrade to a dual electric fan system since I had a fan sitting around that I pulled off a Comanche in a junkyard. Removal of the mechanical fan was straight forward but took a few fit checks to determine what all had to be removed. Initially, I left the fan pulley on to maintain the same belt pattern. However, the studs for the fan were to long so I cut them as close as possible. Still no luck fitting and now there was no going back. So off came the pulley and removal of the studs leaving a what you see below. Then at work on my lunch break I took measurements of the mechanical fan shroud and superimposed the new electric fan. From there I made a sketch to have a co-worker bend me up a Z bracket to secure the fan. I dug through the scrap metal bin and found two angles that I took and used for securing the lower section of the fan into the slots on the radiator. You can make out the three brackets as the fourth holes was aligned to the upper passenger shroud mounting hole. The fan is wired via a fuse jumper into the ignition fuse to start upon start up. Works great but needs an adjustment because when the key is turned off the engine will continue to fun for a few sections before shutting off completely. Remove the fuse jumper and it shuts off normally. Had to buy a new serpentine belt and went with a belt part numbered 840K6. Started the engine to finish the fill up for coolant and the engine was staying at 180 degrees during idle. Upon taking the truck out, it turns out the belt is two long and it slipping. So back to the part store to get a shorter belt.
  8. Thank you for the replies everyone. Went through and check everything again in the fuse box as well as the grounds. After ensuring the ground was good it turned out that the fuse box for the dash fuse was a bit corroded. When I checked and cleaned the fuse, I didn't clean the fuse box side. Now all the gauges expect the fuel work correctly. It seems like the fuel has a bad ground as it moves but is not aligned to the full or empty markings.
  9. Hey Everyone, I have a 89' 4.0 L Comanche where the instrumentation panel won't work except for the turn signal indicators. Everything else won't function including the mechanical speedometer. If anyone has any input that would be greatly appreciated. I have checked the fused under the dash and replaced the one that was broken. Thank you for your time and help.
  10. Found it! Thank you again coolwind57. This will save me some money because I didn't realize that nipple was removable.
  11. Thank you immensely for the response and information coolwind57! Didn't realize they had different threads and made a mess.
  12. Where do you find the adapter for the renix engine?
  13. Hello ComancheClub, SO I had a little fun this weekend after figuring out the CAD system was not working. I just took it apart, slide the fork over and capped the two vacuum ports. Worked great and once the front axle is worked on it be removed. Well I got to hill on the motocross track at a local off road event and with the stock gears in the truck made a bit of smoke. I blew the radiator cap completely off and was eventually found wedge beside the steering box. So the cap no longer locks to the radiator. Below is an action shot of my truck this weekend on the hill that caused the radiator issue. KVID0530.mp4 Besides that exciting adventure, I went to a local junkyard in search of some Cherokee parts and came across this beauty sitting out front in the parking lot. Talked to the owner of the junkyard and said the whole truck was for sale! The truck is in better condition with no rust anywhere. Still going to pull the carpet and check regardless. Went back Monday with a trailer and after a jump, the truck was driven onto the trailer. They said the synchronizers in the transmission where going and it was hard to shift resulting in the owner selling it to them. Added some fluid to the clutch reservoir and it tightened up with no issue shifting. The only issues I could find were a dead battery, instrumentation cluster not working, a few bulbs out and flat tires that have a rounded key for the lug nut locks. This truck is going to be my 2wd daily driver for cruising around town. The plan is to swap the bucket seats over to the trail/camping ridge and put the bench seat in the daily driver. My girlfriend likes to sit in the middle of it when we drive around locally and the bucket seats will allow her to drive if need be out on a trip since they slide closer to the pedals.
  14. Yeah I would definitely like to take those plastic liners off your hand if you don't mind. I would greatly appreciate that. Yeah they got the support brackets and the horns moved up underneath the bumper now. Don't have to worry about hitting those. Are you going to Budd's Creek this weekend? I could pick them up there from you if are. If not, you are local so we can figure something out.
  15. Hope everyone had a great weekend. More progress updates. So the front bumper is complete but first more progress pictures. The front flares were a bit of a pain to get off since they still had the temporary hardware used to hold them up during assembly. Only broke three (3) or four (4) studs, but you can see that the plastic wheel well lining has been cracked to hell. So they have been removed for now and new plastic or metal once have been added to the need list. The original plan was to have the entire brush guard be removable, but to simply the design and ensure overall strength only the light sections can be removed. Now the final install, well 95% installed bumper. Still have to finish the relocation of the vacuum canister, install the license mounting plate, and some fender stiffener plates. The fenders got trimmed for the bumper and the fabricators made some plates to pick up existing holes in the frame and attach to the folded bottom edge of the trimmed fenders. First off, I apologize for the delayed response drcomanche. I didn't receive a notification of the reply. Thank you for the complement on the design. The fabricators took my initial paper concept and we worked together to make this. Now to wiring in the fog, winch, and winch lights before saving up to get a rear bumper fabricated. Also, just realized the horn needs to be moved upward about an inch to sit inside the bumper Until next time!
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