Jump to content

scaleless

Members
  • Content Count

    89
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About scaleless

  • Rank
    Comanche Fan

Profile Information

  • Location
    Louisiana

Recent Profile Visitors

107 profile views
  1. Right, might as well check and clean up your fuel pump ground, which is behind the driver's side tail light. Remove the tail light assembly and it'll be right there. You clearly have a fuel issue, so if that doesn't improve the issue I would rent a fuel pressure tester from a local auto parts store and give it a check.
  2. Available from MTS, part # JPSU-6P4.0 http://www.mtscompany.com/sendingunits.htm I don't know what pump they use, but they're definitely not all equal. The forums here like Bosch pumps for good reason. You might want to get the model without a pump and throw a Bosch pump in.
  3. That is such a clean stall when you let off it has to be electrical. I think Jdog is right about the clutch pressing or pulling a wire or something along those lines. It's very odd!
  4. If you think that's magic, you should have tried methylene chloride strippers before nanny government stepped in to make sure we couldn't hurt ourselves and banned it! That said, I haven't had any luck with citristrip. It strips rattlecan paint and other weaker finishes really well, but it doesn't really do anything to tougher stuff like automotive paint. My favorite is Kleenstrip Aircraft, even after they swapped to a non-methylene chloride formula.
  5. Doesn't start or doesn't crank over at all with the clutch released? If something was binding, I would expect no crank or a very noisy crank.
  6. The video you posted sounds exactly like piston slap, and the comments seem to agree. As oil heats up and flows better, it makes sense that the noise would quieten up as well. Doesn't sound like flexplate or flexplate bolt noise, which would be rythmic with respect to the flexplate position, but if you slow it down and time it, it seems to hit about once or twice per stroke for 700rpms, which would mean any of the reciprocating components. Given it's louder on the bottom end, piston/rod-related sounds more likely than valvetrain like you said. Then again, that's diagnosing his vehicle, no
  7. Safelite is exactly the bottom-barrel installer I was referring to haha Obviously the install quality varies by location so check your local reviews, but Safelite manufactures their own glass which is wholly inferior to OEM glass. They also source OEM glass by availability, so you sometimes luck out but don't know what you're getting until it's in. I can't speak for the Comanche in particular, but on a lot of models Safelite's glass is a lot thinner than OEM and the metal windshield trim will not fit as a result. This obviously doesn't matter if you're going with the later rubb
  8. Don't be afraid to pay more - I've had many disasters with the bottom-barrel installers! Windshield frame damage, windshields not adhering properly, butyl strip installation on late-model cars...
  9. Hard to tell without hearing it, but temp-dependent noise like you're describing is usually an exhaust leak. Renix exhaust manifolds very commonly crack and cause a leak.
  10. In that guide you can see he used shims to drop the crossmember down to match the drop of the AX15 crossmember, which does get your driveline angles back to factory at the cost of an inch or so of ground clearance. For the transmission clocking, here's a write-up of someone swapping: https://www.stu-offroad.com//engine/aw-4b/aw-4b-4.htm Take a look at the holes and see if it matches yours. That's an AW4, but the idea is the same - there's an obvious area for the holes, and if they're aligned CCW then it's a XJ/MJ trans and if they're CW it's a Wrangler. I think some peo
  11. First I would start by cleaning the sensor grounds if you haven't, and completing Cruiser's relevant Renix tips while you're at it. http://cruiser54.com/ If you've already done so, I would start by testing your IAT, then checking for a MAP line leak. The data from these is used to calculate air density, of which a wrong reading would lead to the issue you're describing.
  12. I have not experience but have heard of proportioning valves getting internally seized, which kinda sounds like what you're describing.
  13. You mean this adapter plate? https://www.advanceadapters.com/products/716007--nv3550--ax15-crossmember-mount-kit-for-jeep-yj-wranglers/ I wasn't able to find any other. That only fits YJs - they use the same crossmember but a different mount for the BA10 and the AX15. Comanches use a different crossmember AND a different mounting plate. I'm not sure if the bolt holes line up, but the BA10 crossmember is an inch or so higher than the AX15 one and will screw with your driveline angles a bit, especially badly if you have a lift. Another thing regarding the tran
  14. I was under the impression that to activate the bypass valve you needed to open the front bleeder, then press the pedal, then start bleeding the rear brakes. This is because the bypass valve activates when there is an extreme pressure differential between the front and rear lines. Having both open before you press the pedal does not cause a pressure differential. I'm certainly no expert, though, so it would be great if someone else chimed in.
  15. I don't think you need that kit, just a 1994+ slave cylinder and some extra hydraulic line. Should come out to much less than $170! I and others I know here used Centric 13667512 pre-bled master and slave cylinder set when we swapped from automatics, but I think this requires a larger firewall hole than stock 1986 - 1993 comes with so you may need to enlarge it. It is cheaper and nets you a new Master, too, though. You'll also need a new crossmember and I'm fairly certain the AX15 needs a different mounting plate, as well. If you don't have a matching transfer case, you'll ne
×
×
  • Create New...