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Andy in Pa

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    Downingtown, Pa.

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Comanche Aficionado

Comanche Aficionado (4/10)

  1. The switch pressure inlet could be dirty or have something blocking it too. If you can pick one up cheap enough, I would probably change the switch.
  2. I would be tempted to just cut that outer sleeve/rubber off and see if it really affects the driveline that much. I have spoken to some driveline experts, and when a driveshaft gets to around 45" long, that is when harmonics and weird driveline vibes may become noticeable. As long as the rest of the driveshaft is OK, I would try that first.
  3. This is a very slippery slope because there are probably a million little things you should do at the same time as doing this conversion. Do you want to lift it as well? Control arms/bushings, motor mounts, tranny mounts, ...etc... How mechanically inclined re you? Could you do the interior work, front axle swap and other work, and take it to a shop to do the tranny/t-case swap, driveshafts and finish it up? I just did this to my 89 MJ, but I have lots of local connections to Jeep parts, as well as nationally in some cases. I also did the majority of the work myself. Finding an ax-15 set up for 4wd was the most expensive part, but the rest of the BIG parts were free in my case. Of course, the D30 I got needed rebuilt with bearings, ball joints, seals, rotors, calipers, brakes... I went to a deeper gear ratio (3.55's) so also swapped in an 8.25 rear too. So leaf spring pads, drums, hardware kit, cylinders, pads and such for the rear too. I converted the t-case to an SYE version (4wd MJ driveshafts are VERY hard to find) and had a custom rear shaft built locally, and cut down and re-balanced a front shaft which was less than $100. My best recommendation to you is to get involved in your local Jeep clubs, meets and local repair shops and show that MJ around a bit. It looks VERY clean, and once you start talking to some of these folks about possibly converting it to 4wd, you may find some local help. Otherwise, figure its worth right around $6-7K as a 4wd 5 spd 4.0L if you talk to a shop and they give you a price to do the work.
  4. Where are you? I have one in my shed. Not new, but worked perfectly before I converted to 4wd.
  5. Definitely make sure the D30 in your Eagle is a HPD30 and not a LPD30. I looked into this a few years ago, and it seems like it was not the same as most D30 diff's that came in MJ's and XJ's. It may be a LPD30 like the TJ's and later XJ's had.
  6. You may want to check the actual performance of the TPS with a meter. Hook up a meter and move the TB open/closed smoothly and slowly to see if the TPS has any deadspots. I can't help you on how to hook up the meter though, someone else will have to provide that info.
  7. Ok, I had a similar issue, and it turned out to be a bad wire from the turn signal switch to the connector on the steering column. My right turn signal would not blink. I tested it all the way back to the steering column. I had JUST put in a used tilt column, and there is a dk blue wire that is for the right turn signal. THAT WIRE was broken. With the tilt mechanism I could push my column all the way down, and while holding it there it would blink properly. I first tested it at the column connector, realized it was the problem and I pulled the wheel off and got to the turn signal switch.. Got the switch mechanism loose (wires prevent removing it completely), cleaned up the contacts really good and put fresh dialectric grease on them, and spliced in a new wire for the rt turn signal. ...Problem solved....
  8. You know, I am starting to wonder if the flywheel is loose or cracked or something. If the relationship with the CPS somehow changes with clutch in/out, it would affect rpm at high levels. With the clutch pushed in, it unloads the flywheel and it spins more freely. Or maybe the CPS is loose? It sounds like you were just in there working on it not too long ago.
  9. I don't hear any noise in the video, but are you hearing anything that sounds loose? Also, do the rpms change at all at idle with pushing the clutch in? Even a little jump? You may want to to take a good look at the wiring under the dash by the clutch pedal/linkage. Maybe something is getting rubbed or pinched when the clutch gets pushed in.
  10. I used the Bosch 69302 kit, it comes with everything you need. If you replace the pump and STILL have a problem, look up a post I made about this earlier this year. My problem was the ECU, not the pump. It was doing the same thing though, only pressurizing to 5-10psi on the fuel rail. In my case the fuel pump relay was buzzing too though.
  11. There may already be a post about this somewhere, but I could not find it. SO with the research I have done, I thought I could contribute to the sticky thread with this post. My goal is to run all LED marker/turn signal/Hazard lights. The side marker lights up front are easy, just replace the incandescent lights with appropriate LED's. There is already a post for that with some light research on this site. If you want to convert them to turn signals as well, there is already a post for that too. This post deals with just flashers- what is needed and why. The "why" is simple... our factory flashers use a thermo-electric circuit, which depends on the power draw of an incandescent bulb to flash. I can explain in deeper detail how this works, but you can also google it if your curious. The simple answer is LED's do not draw enough power for the flasher to thermally "switch", so either you get one blink and the light stays on, a rapid series of blinks with no audible clicking, or something else specific to your vehicle/grounding/wire condition when trying to use a factory-like flasher on an all LED setup. 1. You CAN run a mix of incandescent bulbs and LED's on a factory-like flasher. I would still plan on replacing the factory units if your truck still has them. 2. You CAN run both incandescent AND ANY combo of LED lights with an LED flasher too. 3. For ALL LED lights, you will need an electronic flasher that has a ground wire, and be able to make the appropriate GOOD ground connection. Test your ground and MAKE SURE ITS GOOD. Some sites call them Electro-Mechanical flashers because they still contain the relay contacts for the audible clicking sound we all have grown accustomed to. Here is a list of Electronic flashers specifically for ALL LED lights. Keep in mind, these types of flashers CAN BE polarity sensitive too, and there have been cases where the female connections on the fuse block have been switched. If you install one of these and STILL have a problem (it will be obvious, like -"nothing works at all"- type of obvious), try switching the female connectors (recommend making two jumpers to test it first though). NAPA- NF EL12L1 (Amazon) CEC- EF32RL (Amazon) CEC- EF32RLNP (NP = not polarity sensitive) If you don't care about the audible clicking, www.superbrightleds.com has two options that I am aware of, that are actually quite affordable. These options also do not have a ground wire that needs connected. There is no relay to "click" so no grounding needed on this type. CF12ANL-01 - $9.95 FL2-RED - $12.96 This one has a bracket for remote mounting. I am sure there are others, but hopefully this will get you moving in the right direction to source the correct LED flasher for your turn signals and hazards from your auto parts store. .
  12. Yep, I really didn't think anything about it, and just ordered it thinking it would work. Its a flasher... simple circuit that any shadetree electrical guru could design, but I guess even for that its "buyer beware".
  13. Gonna bump this back up because I got what was listed on Amazon as an electric flasher that works with LED's, and amber LED bulbs to convert the front marker/turn signal bulbs to LED's (This is on my 89 MJ). Reason was I found a bad socket. I assume it went bad because of age, and due to the heat of the incandescent bulbs. New socket installed (Dorman 85898 works perfectly), put in the new flasher, put in the LED bulb on that side, and now it flashes rapidly and the relay is not "clicking" when I hit the turn signal. Worked fine with the incandescent bulb in the front, and LED's in the back. I have not changed the Hazard flasher yet, would that make a difference? Superbrightleds.com has one they sell for this (their part # CF12), but it doesn't click, and I kind of like that clicking sound in case I forget to turn it off. I have read plenty that says I just need the electric flasher (not thermal), but it doesn't seem to be working in my case. With this flasher it does say it works with mix LED's. Maybe that means it doesn't work with only LED's... Here is the flasher I used... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07MJGC28B?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2_dt_b_product_details Thoughts? Anything helpful you can add? Thanks, Andy
  14. Assuming the steering box is good (and honestly I would replace it since you can't get it to stop leaking at this point) there are some very stout steering box bracing kits out there. I would recommend looking at www.Ironman4x4fab.com steering box brace. I just put one of these on my daughters MJ, and honestly there is no way the steering box CAN move at all at this point. It can be tough to put on if the truck has been hit or tweaked in the front at all. I think Andy the owner actually has a video of the install on the website right now. If you have creaks you can't find, then I highly recommend this kit.
  15. Yikes... yeah that is either a missing shim or bad carrier bearings. Who was the last one inside that axle? Take a good hard look at the gears too and make sure there are no bad wear patterns. If its badly worn, even after its fixed it may have a growl or whine.
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