Andy in Pa

I believe all the t-cases that went behind an AX-15 were 23 spline. So when you are sourcing the 242 t-case, just make sure it has a 23 spline input. A.

Me neither, but I like to pull the upper rad hose and fill the radiator that way.

Wow!!! Never knew there was such a thing on the 4cyl. Well played htchevyii

It is very easy to install that ignition switch incorrectly. I have done that already. One spot off, and it won't slide the switch far enough to hit the "Start" contacts. If you fixed that fusible link AND installed that ignition switch at the same time, and its not installed correctly, that may be your problem.

I am in for a set of these MJ seat brackets as well. Please reach out to me so we can make this happen. Thanks, Andy

That is a block heater. That is very common in the colder states. Looks like it was completely destroyed at some point, but there is usually an electrode that sticks out in the center where a wire attaches. They can be a MAJOR pain to replace if one goes bad. Happened to my neighbors car, and I helped him replace it. Shouldnt affect how it runs at all, but it looks like someone tried to put a new one in and had to JB weld it in place.

Ok, so this is more of a fluid dynamics issue than anything else. You are killing radiators because you are over pressuring them, This is because of the overflow pressure cap being at the expansion tank. Because of line size and dead-heading the system BECAUSE of the heater cooler lines still running through the Mac tank, the pressure builds in the MAIN cooling circuit (engine, upper/lower hoses and radiator), with no way to relieve quickly. Put a straw in your mouth, now try to blow out as fast as possible.... take the straw out and do the same. Which relieves pressure faster? It will be a fully functioning OPEN system if you eliminate those heater core lines and run them directly to the heater core. An open cooling system is a NON PRESSURIZED system... at least nothing over the pressure rating on the cap on the radiator. Honestly, you may STILL over-pressure the radiator and force leaks, because the radiator cap is not on the radiator. OR... you NEED to put a solid cap on that aluminum expansion tank, and get rid of the overflow bottle entirely. FYI... There IS NO NEED FOR AN OVERFLOW BOTTLE on a closed cooling system. Its one or the other with the way you have this set up. You can put an open cooling system radiator into a closed system setup, because the pressure relief is still at the radiator (AKA the main source of antifreeze volume and pressure), not at the expansion tank. Its not suggested because its overkill to have a expansion tank (with a normal sealed cap like factory) AND an overflow bottle, but I don't see why it wouldn't work.

The leaf springs themselves are different, but rear shackles and all front end components are the same. There are companies out there that offer SPECIFIC MJ leaf springs though, you just have to do some digging. Also FYI, rear axle spring perches are different as well. A rear out of an XJ will not bolt right into an MJ without moving the spring perches on the axle.

I have known people that have chased that rear main seal leak, and finally just decide to live with it. If that is the only thing wrong with your MJ, I say you have invested plenty, and now its time to drive it and enjoy it. If you look under almost EVERY other XJ, MJ, ZJ, or TJ with that motor, with over 100kmiles, they are either extremely lucky that the RMS is not leaking, or, like 90% of them, they leave a few little oil drips from their RMS.

incandescent bulbs or LED? While running, or just "key on"? Any other weird electrical problems that may point to the 101 connector or something else this may be combined with? License plate lights work?

Please do a "shadetree" alignment on the front end. Just having the truck that far out of alignment could create that wobble. Find 3 and 9 oclock on the tires and measure the distance from inside of tire to inside of tire as accurately as you can. Loosen and adjust the draglink adjustment until those numbers are close. If that doesn't make sense, dig up a few videos on youtube and follow along with them. Lots of good info out there.

That is definitely your water pump leaking. I had exactly the same thing happen to me, AFTER I replaced the lower hose, thinking it was the problem. So at the risk of confusing this issue slightly, I have a question on what type of cooling system you are actually running. It says you have an "Open" cooling system, but your still running that metal catch can (replacing the plastic one needed for a "Closed" cooling system). Does your radiator have a cap, or is it still the older style with no cap? When converted to an "Open" cooling system, that plastic bottle is removed (in your case it would be the metal catch can) and the cooling lines are re-run as well to eliminate the extra piping not needed any longer. Then a small plastic overflow bottle needs to be installed so the over-pressure line has somewhere to go in case there is an over-pressure condition and it burps out past the cap on the radiator. This bottle should have the fitting on the bottom so the fluid can be drawn back into the radiator as it cools down. Seems like you have some redundancy that could be removed to simplify your cooling system a good bit.

Just found this thread... you've been busy!! Looks great, my daughters MJ is also still doing well. Andy

If you left the grease seal from that u-joint cap on the u-joint trunion, believe it or not, that is enough to not allow the trunion already through the cap hole NOT go in far enough for the opposite side to slip into place. Once the grease seal is off, the slight edge of the center "black" part of the u-joint has to go into the cap hole, and it slips into place.

Actually, yes you are going to have a problem if you try to run 35's on factory backspaced 16" (5 on 4.5 or 5 on 5 pattern) Jeep wheels, so you'll need adapeter even if you had that bolt pattern. In your case, add the correct 1-1/2" conversion spacers to the 16" Jeep wheels and you'll be good to go. I bet the tire will stick out less than an inch with that combo. And if its a D44 front axle, there is much less worry about the load the spacers put on the hub bearings and such.