Parei_doll_ia

Not racing for now, though I do want to do some autocross, but I don't have the time or money currently. I've just been driving it around. It's completely stock except for the exhaust, and I don't feel the need to change anything.

so I got distracted by a lot of things. isn't ADHD fun? I'm also never on here anymore since I moved on to Miatas but here's the pod mount https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6250185

If you're coming here from the Cars and Bids auction: Don't ask questions about the truck here, ask them on the auction page and I will answer them there. My DMs are also closed here until the end of the auction. These are two threads I have made here that are also useful to understand some of the modifications to the truck. The 1st one is a write up that I made for the O2 sensor, and the 2nd explains how I repaired the EGR tube.

'13 JK '90 MJ '12 Golf TDI '08 WR250X '14 DR-Z400SM '01 XR100R '16 FZ-07 '18 Grom '22 Triumph Tiger Sport 660

I'll keep a look out, but it's probably in TJ by now. I always keep my hidden switch armed when I'm not near it, and I got lucky and found an apt with a gated garage.

Ignea is a good one The same song in English

There is, and it has a higher tow rating. It's not a true 4x4 though, it's added to the FWD transaxle like a Golf R

It's a light FWD truck which gives them more room for payload in the GVWR. The Gladiator is just heavy, and was always a compromise being built from a Wrangler.

Dex 3 was the spec for the older AW4s. I use Valvoline Dex/Merc

As soon as September ends: WAKE UPPPP

Bosch, NTK, Autozone, Chinese, doesn't matter. They all use the same metal bodied sensor that isn't supposed to be for the Renix, but it kinda halfassed fits the specs on paper. None of the ones you see advertised as a ceramic body will actually be one unless you find a NOS sensor. I used a AEM wideband and it's been working great all year and across the country. It's value engineering at its worst. There aren't enough of our trucks or vehicles with similar EFI systems around anymore, so they try to buy one sensor, and sell adapted versions that can "fit" multiple vehicles, but at a loss of performance. NTK held out the longest, but they probably ran out of an internal component that went EOL years ago.

I used .050" thick steel to form patches for mine. You can't see them from the outside, so they're very easy to make. I drilled a few holes in the bed side and did spot welds to hold it on, similar to how the factory did it. If they're too far gone, you might want to look for a new bed, or one to cut patches out of.

I think I used a 2000s Ranger latch on mine. It didn't have any screws, I just glued it on and was done.