75sv1

What Eagle said. Try and replace your pressure cap or radiator cap every 5 years. I had this on a 78 AMC Gremlin. Lost coolant. Replaced the thermostat. Nothing. Then read 'Automotive Repairs for Dummies' by Denna Sclar. Replaced the thermostat, coolant kept at the required level.

I've kind of noticed a jerkiness with a heavy load. So, there is sort of an impact on parts with a manual. Not an expert with towing though. The Ford 8.8 does come in 3:73. Probably limited slip available. Also, 4:10. Also, an auto doesn't have a direct linkage, the torque converter is a hydraulic coupling, so it cushions the start up. It didn't have much problems with one of my XJs twoing some 2400 lbs cars on a dolly. Well, looking in the rearview mirror and seeing a car on your bumper.

If you look at the specs, the manual trans is limited to 2500 lbs, the auto to 5,000 lbs. I am not sure as to why you are slipping in 5 th gear. I would agree with the others, larger brakes should be on the list. I think others do not have a problem with higher loads with a manual, but you have to be smooth with shifting. Wondering if it is a preassure plate problem, and the extra load shows it. With an auto, you should have an auxiliary cooler.

I think the main difference between headers listed for the Renix era vs HO is that the Renix has a bung for the EGR system. I think the two listed for them are the Clifford and the Pacesetter. I have/had both. The Clifford you have to drill through a wall in the tubing to 'activate' it. I though Borla or Banks might have made one for the Renix. The larger tubes cover the ports of the years to my knowledge.

I'd also check the idler pulley as for the bearings being good. I did throw a belt a few weeks back. It was mainly that the PS Pump pulley was bent. I did run over a year like that. I stopped at the Trash dump and heard a racket. Someone else commented on it. I turned off the motor. Looked under the hood. Saw some fluid on the ground, it was oil. I didn't drive far and then had no power steering and overheated. Anyways, the belt came off. I limped home, letting the engine cool off. Replaced the water pump, coolant, belt and the PS pulley. Then noticed the idler pulley was a bit off. It runs fine now. Got lucky on the motor.

The 90-99.5 XJ hubs (2.133)are about the same height as the WJs (2.118), if you wanted to retain 5 X 4.5 BC. I think the WJ is about 5 inches wider. I am in the process of doing the WJ brake swap. Hope to get me knuckles welded with the spacer. FIY, someone on the Jeep Form has done a 17 inch rim brake upgrade with '11-15 Durango calipers and Ford Mustang GT rotors, and using '84-89 Jeep XJ/MJ 4WD knuckles with 00'-01 XJ hubs. So far on mine, I have the WJ knuckles, the JKS spacers, Timken '00-01 XJ bearing hubs, lower WJ ball joints (Mevotech TTX). Alloy USA upper ball joints, Akebono calipers and brakets, and '07-08 Dodge Nitro (Jeep Liberty ??) rotors. I don't have to trim down the OD of the hub bearing or redrill the bolt holes.

NAPA had/has a sale going on. I wanted their Platinum series for synthetic. 41515 (same size as the 1515). They don't have one for the 1773 size.

I looked at rebuilding a set of springs years ago. There was anti-friction tape for springs. Might look at it. Also, there is 'teflon' paint at Auto parts stores. I did sand blast those sets of springs. Not sure it is a good idea though. I do have some machinery, lathes, mills. Some who rebuild them use an electrolysis process to remove the rust, paint etc. Not as complicated as it sounds. The part come out clean and bare metal.

OK, yeah the 2wd would not have the outer shafts. The WJ knuckles are 1/4 less on height than the XJs. I was looking at converting a set of XJ knuckles, but I think the WJs will be less work. There are three 'widths' or heights of XJ hubs. The early 1.8??. The HO 2.133 and the later or TJs (?) 1.918 or so. The WJs are 2.118. So, there is not much difference between them and the HO 90-99.5. I'd be interested in your combo of parts for the Tie rod etc. I was going to use or shorten the WJs steering set up. I think it could be done, but for the money making up the same setup from DOM , TRE insert ends and the Chevy/Ford/Dodge TREs might be the same amount of money. Also, read somewhere that the WJs slit in the tubing causes it to crack with heavy use. I am probably going to use the present XJ steering setup, then convert latter. I think I have a worn gear box. I have Canyon rims and a set of 16" rims. So hopefully the Akebonos have enough clearance.

I do have a '95 GC in my '88 MJ. It is just placed in there and not wired up. It does fit. I think I had to get the rubber piece for the fire wall from an XJ. From memory it does give about an 1" to 1-1/2' bit more room. I could look at it again if needed. I am not sure how the steering shaft worked out. I think I got it in there. Oops. OP was XJ and the next post said ZJ.

It will be interesting if the JKS spacers are not needed. I don't see that happening from my measurements. Or then if they are not needed at all. From my understanding, they space the outer shaft to align the u-joint with the axis of the ball joints. Some say it is not needed if you use the WJ hubs. I don't think so. The outer shaft mounts the same to the XJs or WJs. The depth or protrusion on the bearing surface from the knuckle surface is the same. I am gather parts for this swap on a '98 XJ. I do get the Mevotech lower WJ ball joints. They are made in China. They do look very good as pictured. I just replaced my ball joints with Alloy USA set. They XJ lowers don't fit firm in the WJ knuckles. I also went with a pair of 00'-'01 XJ Timken Hubs. They are roughly .230 less width than the WJ hubs. The bearing looks to be the same size. I am also planning to use '07-'08 Dodge Nitro Rotors. I bough some Centric (mid grade). They look good. I did do some stack ups and I might need to put in a 1/16th spacer to center the calipers with this setup. I went with NAPA Eclipse Akebono type and brackets. I just need to have the spacers welded on.

Owners or vehicle ??

I'd put in here, flat land or hills? Also, auto or manual? I did tow with my one of my Cherokees, but not that weight. And it was a '98. So, the dual diaphragm brake booster. It did very well, but the cars were only 2,200 lbs or so. I also towed some machinery. Still, about 1000 lbs. A trans cooler would help if an auto.

Basically, what Eagle wrote. Says '90 for your Eliminator, HP. The latter axles were LP, that the hub bearings and rotor were changed. If you swap them as a set, it would match up and work. The calipers are the same. I did swap on '98 rotors and hub bearing assemblies from a '98 HP to a '00 LP. I am presently gathering parts for the WJ big brake swap. So, I bought a set of '00 hub assemblies. Way things go.

The dowels are usually not a problem. I had to grind some on a '95 head to get it to position right on my '03 block. I think I am the only one who has had this problem. The pins were on my block.

Depends. The '88 head will fit. What are you putting it in? If say back into a '00, then as others suggest, get a newer head. The older heads 87 to 95' do not have the dowel holes for the locator pins. You would have to eye ball the centering of the head.

Yes Waggy front. PS drop. The Isuzu 44 has the shock mounts on the rear. I might keep them there and mess around. See what I like. Its a light truck so probably over kill, might mess up more than it helps. OK Decoder ring : PnP - Pick and Pull PA - Pennsylvania IN - Indiana

Any advice as to moving the tank to the other side? I want to run my exhaust straight back.

I did have some drilled on a Ford Contour. They did crack after some time. They might add some performance but I think there are other/better solutions. If I was 'racing' then I might go with them. Larger brakes or as was mentions rear disc. Also, do a search for various performance pads for Jeeps. Some rave about the 'Black Magic' brand. A bit pricey, but try them in the future.

I see 4:10 going for more than that. Other ratios are cheaper. People want the D30 4:10 and the JYs know it. I can get other axels for cheaper and non XJs in 4:10 or other rations a lot cheaper. PnPs charge for an axle, whatever it is. I picked up an FS GC D44 for about $130 at a PnP a few years back. I think they go for $400 to $600. Then again, I bought a D44 rear from an Isuzu Rodeo for $130 from a JY. I try to swing by Marshalls in mid OH. Just about PnP prices. I use Car-Parts.Inc. to scout for parts and prices.

Has anyone done a quad shock on an MJ? I am swapping in a Dana 44 out of an Isuzu Rodeo. The shock mounts face rear. I see two holes in the frame, much like the ones the stock mounts go through. Didn't pull those in PA, when I was at a PnP. Only one I saw at 4 PnPs. 2 in PA, 2 in IN.

I did have a set on my '88 Comanche. No real problems. Mine was ceramic coated. Some flaking at the edges on the flange. I ran it a few years. Most headers do not have the bung for the EGR system. Since yours is an HO, that is not a problem. Mine was an early set. Possibly made in the USA. When they moved to Mexico, I heard there was quality issues. That was long ago though. For an HO, I might look at others. Any header will rust if not coated or SS. I'd prefer Ceramic coating. It does reduce under hood temps. Wrapping with the heat tape will cause the header to rust. I don't know if ceramic coating would stop that. It should, but then why wrap them is ceramic coated. I'd compare cost. I did like the clamp section vs no clamp section of other headers.

How high are you going on the LA? Are your doing OTK steering? That might affect what I'd do with the Track Bar. No real experience here, just planning A WJ type steering and looking at Rusty's Track bar for this. Also, I did look at shocks, but went with Bilsteins. For a cheap stock I was going to go with Doetsch. They seem to have a good rep in the budget shocks. If its short term, possibly look at GC lowers. I think some use them for budget build lifts.

Someone posted that WIX 51515 is an added capacity filter than the standard 4.0L filter. Also, NAPA dose have a Platinum line for Synthetic oils.

Shell Rotella 10W-30 year round and NAPA Gold. This is in my tow '98 XJs. I also ran it in my '88 Comanche. I might be switching to a synthetic in the Purple XJ. I replaced the oil boss oring and the oil consumption seems to be nil. The green one has always been nil, but trying to sell it. Probably use Rotella T6. Something with 1000-1200 ppm Zinc. Diesel oils usually do. I run the 10W30 Rotella in my MB 240D in the colder months. The MB guys say no, but the manual says Yeah. Then they say its not diesel rated. I say read the website.