75sv1

Not expecting miracles. I'll have to judge for myself, when I make the swap. I did change ball joints last year. So, it won't be one of those bunch of changes and saying just the one made a difference. I will have to change the bottom ball joints to the WJ ones. Just orders the GM TRE setup from RuffStuff.

As suggested I'd check steering gear box play or adjustment. Also, any slop in the track bar. My XJ had a slot for the hole in the track bar bushing. I fixed that. Much better. Then adjusted the gear box, but the seal leaked so replaced it. Much much better. Still, not like a rack and pinion. I will be changing to WJ big brakes and a GM cross over steering. Mine is lifted 4.5. So, the cross over steering is suppose to help with that.

Yes, I have a set up stairs. I might need a bit of work. $50. It is gray. Sorry for the delay. I was looking for a PM. I'll look at it tonight.

Any input on dics on an AMC 20? I have seen swaps, but have to make plates. Also, all the other swaps are with drum inners.

I have an ISUZU Rodeo or Trooper axle at home. It uses an internal drum brake like the Ford 8.8, KJ (?), MB 123. The cables have a regular drum brake end. Not sure if I have time to take dimensions on other stuff. Give me what dimensions are needed and I'll try.

Might look at the ISUZU Trooper or Rodeo, and Honda Pilot rear ends. They are a Dana 44, and some or most have rear disk brakes. I do not know if the fit other D44s. I though some of the GC had a D44, but an aluminum housing.

Basically, the rear one goes to the intake manifold. The front one goes to the air intake box, or some just put a small breather element on it. Not sure of all the tubing etc for the Renix for that. Taking it off or to the air box, would help with 'Blow By' or oil being sucked into the air filter.

I have put a '95 VC on my '89 Comanche. I think there are three styles. The one I used had the 90 degree turn fittings (91-95). The two others had the latter style grommet PVC fittings. I have two at home. One was on a '94. I have only seen a picture of the last style, or its my imagination. Same grommet PVC, but a slant to the VC.

Two MJs at PnP at Producers Lane. Two taillights, Headliner, tailgate other parts. There is a good rear bumper on the 4 cylinder. I pulled some of those parts, but the CC machine was down. I did get the wiring harness from the cab to the taillights, speaker brackets and one good curtsey light. One did have a slider rear window. I already have one. Don't know when I'll make it back up there. Tailights were $22 or so each. They have gone up, since last time I picked some.

I have a set. I'm in Hope.

:popcorn: I think you'll get fat on pop corn. I've been working on this for quite some time. But keep the Indiana economy going. I have been doing a few things on it. Need to get the WJ 4.0L figured out, then axels. Then electronics or interior. Lots to do. If other vehicles behave.

I am in the process or at least tried this. I cut the front and then the rear to match. I plan to take some of the center section to glue on the back as a reinforcement. I am going to try and put in the 98-up sound bar. Yeah the speaker will be right at my ear. I also plan to put in the navigation over head. I'll have to cut it a bit and put in the reinforcing plate or whatever you want to call it.

You also have to keep an eye on shipping. Some parts are OK, other sky high, and cheaper to go local. I do order from them at times. I do try and check online and see what prices are. If close or reasonable, I buy local. Usually, NAPA. I did order Timken bearings from them, and possibly Mevotech ball joints.

I have the window crank knob. SnakeDoc has what I'd call the arm rest. Let us know either way. I don't have tan arm rest.

I looked last night. I have one on the drivers side. PM me your address and I'll ship it. I am putting in late style doors etc. I think I grabbed this at a PnP years ago.

Mine isn't. It has a carb. The newer ones are probably. Kawis are the nicer engine. I think there are two Cub engines. Read around. The upgrade one is suppose to be a lot better. People prefer the Kawi tough

I might have one. Its very light. Not sure if I can check tonight or not.

John Deere has synthetics oils. Mine has a Kawasaki motor. I think some of the Cubs use Kawasaki.

Iron Rock and possibly other make a brace for the WJs that tie together the rails at the track bar. It is suppose to take care of death wobble in them. I do have a cheap $35 steering box brace off of ebay from Dayton OH. in my XJ. Can't comment either way. From posts I've read some of the bracing shifts the stress to another area on the frame. I bought mine to put on a Durango box. I just rebuilt one, I had laying around. It will probably go on the MJ.

There are internal stops in the Durango box, that can be removed. I am rebuilding one. There is a metal 'C' clip, that gets removed and some spacer post on the aluminum end cap that get removed. From reading the various threads, some people lose turning radius others don't. Some gain it back with a longer pitman arm. Removing the stops helps, according to what I've read. Other say upgrading to the WJs power steering pump helps a bunch.

OK, then its an electrical problem. I have only dealt with a '98. So a lot different wiring if yours is a Renix era. I think the HO (90-95) is a bit different. Cruiser's tips are the main source for Renix info. If you can find were to measure the ohms to the solenoids, then measure them. Usually the middle one goes bad. Mine was, and the Transgo instructions stated it usually is. On mine one of the speed sensors was bad. The early ones might only have one speed sensor. The TPS, ECM and brake light switch also have input to the trans. Also, make sure your battery is in good condition. If it is a solenoid, you have two PnPs in Indy. Its been a month or two since I've been to them. There were two '00 or '01 XJs at the one on Producers lane. I did pick the solenoids and speed sensors from the trans laying out. The latter, greenish blue solenoids are suppose to be better than the brownish tan ones. I do have some brownish tan ones as spares. I'd have to see if I have some of the latter ones I can spare. They guy who bought my other XJ didn't pick up a trans I have.

If the fluid level is correct then I'd unplug the TCU and drive it in manual mode. If the trans shifts manually, then its electronics. I usually measure the Ohms for the solenoids at the plug up by the trans fill tube. They should be 13 ohms +/-3 ohms. If you need help, I might be in Indy on Saturday evening.

This^ You can also search car-part.com for an MJ AX-15 crossmember. I did this and got mine for $60 shipped to my house. Also, if you have a BA10 trans, you will need the backing/inspection plate thatsits between the engine and bellhousing. Then obviously the trans and transfer case with all of the shift linkage for the T-case. The 4wd shifter as well. Not sure if the ZJ front driveshaft is the same as an XJ/MJ, but you will want that as well. XJ cross member work? I used on in my MJ, but the NV3550 is tucked up a bit high. Then again I might have used the BA one. I think the ZJ is an inch or so longer. I did a HnT on my XJ. That did come up in discussion, but should be checked.

What are you swapping in? Or are you replacing? Should be just bolt out, bolt in. I just replaced the one in my XJ, PS though. I was adjusting it, and then the front seal was leaking. replaced it with a Cardone. It did help a bunch with the XJ from wondering. Still, wonders a bit. Did you need adjustment instructions or other info?

First check fluid level. Then do as suggested, unplug the TCU. Not sure what year you have. Then shift manually as suggested. If it shifts OK manually, with the TCU unplugged, then its electronic. If reverse works, then its probably electronic. Then I'd check the solenoids, three of them. I don't have the pin or plug call outs. But should be able to check them from the TCU plug. Also, check the speed sensors if you can. The Solenoids should be 13 ohms +/- 3 ohms.