75sv1

I have a set. Its just the brackets, not the rails. $40 shipped in the US. I also have a set of red Comanche bucket seats. Bad apolstry though. Tom

If from a Cherokee, then your brackets from the bench seat will work. I do have a set of brackets, but not the rails. Tom

I think I have seen articles or studies, that cell phone use is as bad or worse than drunk driving. I think texting would be a lot worse. I don't know if the insurance companies could negate their coverage if an accident was caused while texting or cell phone use. Germany does or at least use to put the blame of an accident on a person if they were not using a seat belt. Tom

I was in PA over the Holidays. There was a pair of red bucket seats in a white Comanches at Joes PnP, in New Ringgold PA. Nice shape. I was going to pick them, but the front nuts on the drivers side were rusted bad. The bracket still looked solid. I didn't see any major rips etc. Looked very very good if cleaned up. There was a set of Cherokee 2 dr seats at Harry's. Gray. Also, a newer 2dr in another Cherokee. Tom

I have a set of red buckets. The vynil is cracked in many places. I also have a set of GC seat that can go with them. I think I have $100 on all 4. I am about 1 hour south of you in Hope IN. I do make it up to Indy on most weekends. Tom

One use I have heard for city lights is for fog lights. You still need headlights to be recognized by on coming drivers. But, in dense fog, regualr headlights can throw back a bunch of light. I have also experienced this in snow. Sort of like high beams. So, in fog, then the low mounted fog lights get under the fog to light the road. I also own an MB. I plan to set it up with city lights and driving lights. Tom

Should fit. I wrote a long reply, but wasn't logged in. The bolt holes should be the same. The later heads have smaller exhuast ports. Also, some had pre cast. So, the headers might no be listed for late models, but should fit. Tom

I have a set for both sides. I think I can go $50 shipped for all. They are in good shape. Presently being used as a stand for soldiering iron. Tom

I have a set from an '88. I hear there are differences. Unless someone confirms otherwise, then I think you need to match year to year. I don't think the motor changed much if any from 87 to 90. Also the other posters price if very good. Same year as yours. I'd probably snag it. Tom

What year MJ? Tom

I did pick up the roll bar last night. It is for a SWB Comanche. It is in very good shape, but does not have the backing or frame plates. $150.00 or trade for LWB roll bar. Tom

I have to check. There might be one for sale local to me. Tom Also, what is the price on the LWB roll bar and shipping to 47246.

I have swapped a '95 valve cover onto an '88 Renix motor. I did the big tube CCV update. I used, I think 5/8 fuel line hose to adapt the CCV elbow fittings to the CCV hoses. Also, check NAPA for the CCV hoses. I think they are fairly reasonable from NAPA. Tom

I was there last Monday. I didn't see that one. I didn't see any MJs in the yard. I walked the entire truck section. I saw three at Joes EZ pull in New Ringold. One got crushed while I was there. The one with the funky moon roof was goe from Harry's. I looked at it around Christmas. It had bucket seats, but they were moldy. I did get a purple rear door for a Cherokee I am rescueing. Some other parts as well. I got a set of tailight and gray bucket seats at Joes. The seats were $5 each. The tailights $10 each. Tom

I was on vaction last week. Went to PA. I took the Mean Green Cherokee. Yeh, gas prices didn't make me happy. I went to Joes EZ Pull in New Ringold PA. I got a set of Comanche Taillights for $20, and a set of Bucket seats for $10. Oh, happy day. The seats are a bit dirty, and the passengers has a small amount of wear. Then I drove up to Harrys, in Hazleton. I was looking for parts on late model Cherokees, and more Comanche tailights. I didn't see any Comanches. I was going to drive up to Scranton for a drivers side rear purple door for a purple Cherokee I have. I got one at Harrys for $33, an airbag, under hood light, rear speaker cover, a set of infinity speakers, turn signal or marker lights, and some other parts. I was running out of money. I then went fishing on the little Leheigh. I managed two trout, and lost another. I fished Stoney by Daulphin, caught three and lost one. The creeks were up, but running fairly clean. I fished Penns. It was way up. To dangerous to wade. I didn't catch any. There were some rising. I think to caddis, but I think I didn't have a small enough pattern. I caught one on Elks the next day and lost two. Tom

These have been sold. I contacted the seller. I think he has deleted the adds in other forums. tom

The fenders and header panel needs to be from a 97 to 01. The hood and cowl vent can be from any year. I have two '98. Both of them were /are wreaked. One Green the other purple. A tree fell on the green one. The purple one hit a deer and went off road. Neither are/were in as bad of shape as yours. I will say that the roof damage to the green didn't go as well. It looks OK and it does run. Also, the windshields from any year will fit. I think I used a '95 or '95 on the green one. I used a '95 hood and cowl on the green one. The paint matched and PnP price was good. Tom

I made the weekly trip to the PnP on Sunday. I saw a Comanche with a rear sliding window, the three piece type last week. The taillights were busted. I went back this weekend with some of the saw cord, a box knife and a long scraper. The saw cord didn't work very well. I used the box knife and the scraper to get out the window. I went to the other PnP. I tried the week before to pull a steering gear box from a Dodge Durango. I couldn't get the knuckle joint to the tie rod to break free. I took a pickle fork this time, and a few smacks it was free. I also bought a '98 Cherokee. Its purple, trashed interior, smacked in both drivers side doors, motor probably blown. $500 delivered. I think I have the Green one sold. Neighbor has a 2000 4.0L block that needs a cam and is miising a piston. It is actually mine or was mine. So, I should get a good running engine out of the two. I don't know the milage. I'm still trial fitting the GC dash frame. I took the Comanches dash support around the steering column. It is angled back in the rear. So I cut it both sides and made it flat. From the looks of it, I'll take 1 inch from the drivers side and 3 inches from the passengers side. I did cut the '98 Cherokee headliner I have into sections, to see how it will/would fit in the Comanche. I left the sections long, to see where I need to place the seem. There are two depressions for the rear seat belts. I plan to cut just in back of there and then match the front piece. The speakers will be fairly close to my head though. I'm also looking to cut the overhead nav pod to fit. I looked breifly at that. Tom

I have one for an '88 4.0 2wd MT. I think they are different though. Tom

are you needing the cable or the assembly? Tom

Went to the PnP, again, Saturday. I borrowed a Sawzall and got the two doors off a blue '98 Cherokee. They were $55 each. No mirror or panel. I'll get some panels for $35 each. I also got the clockspring and steering wheel to add cruise to my '98 Cherokee. I already have the cruise servo. I also pulled the headliner and sound bar, but no speaker covers. Also, the coolant overflow bottle and braket. Its a bit different than a '95. So, I'll see how the fuse box fits. There was a '95 4-cyl MT Cherokee. I pulled the steering column and took the adapter. I broke a part that was not on mine. It might have been a lockout for the MT trans. I was going to pull a steering box from a Durango/Dakota, but I was getting a bit worn out. I also forgot my hammer. On Sunday, I pulled one of the Ranchero shocks from the Comanche. It was dead. I was going to put them in the Cherokee. Then I pulled the '96 GC steering column from the Comanche and put on the adapter. It pushed the column about 1 inch out. I had to drill out, or slot the plastic isolators on the column. I'll also have to do that to the adapter's bolts holes. They at spaced out a bit wider. I did some hacking on the dash steel frame. I still need to do some more trial fitting. I am thinking of using the Comanches channel over the steering column. It attaches on the bolts there. It is about the same width. I did center the center vent/radio/heater control section and see what needed to be cut. I did borrow a sawzall, and I broke the charger for it. I'll have to get it repaired. Tom

Well, I went in to work early yesterday, and flex time to get to the PnP about 2 pm. Getting there I found out I forgot my tool box. I went in anyways, but no one had torx bits. I drove to Advanced and bought some tools, $50. The Torx set was $30. I couldn't get the doors off. The lower bolts were rusted in there. I couldn't find anyone with a sawzall. I might go back with a sawzall on Saturday. Anyways, I went to NAPA to pick up one rear brake cable I plan to modify to work with the Ford Disk. Then got a burger to eat. I got home and decided to do some wrenching. I took out the old steering column. I laid it nex to the GC's. They were the same length, but the bolt plate was in a different location. I put the GC's in the Comanches to see what the fit would be. The firewall bolting plate didn't match. It seemed like it would swivel a bit. I messed with it, and the end came off. There is a donut rubber ring that holds the flange piece on. I put the GC steering column back in. It fit, but I had to drill out the plastic clips a bit. Then slid it back in and bolted it in place. I put the drivers seat in. Hopped in to see how it felt. The steering wheel was in a good position. It might need to come out about 2 inches. I had the seat all the ways back. My legs felt good in that position to the pedals. I will need to make a plate or flange to adapt it to the firewall. I put in the link between the steering column and the gear box. It fit. I think think moving the column out about 2 inches would help some though. I also, think that going to a center parking -brake, remove the parking brake from the drivers side, will allow more room. So, I plan to bend the clutch pedal to the left. Also, try to put in a bit bigger brake pedal. I did part the drivers side dash frame. I started to cut the passengers side. Still, trying to figure out where to cut the dash cover. I might get rid of the defog vent on the passengers side, ot move it a bit. I also looked at the instrument panels. The GC the smaller guages are angled out. On the Cherokees they are on top of each other. I plan to put in the Cherokke gauges into the GC gauge housing. Then use the bottom warning lights of the GC.

I went to the PnP Saturday. I snagged a bunch of the dash trim parts I was missing. I also got the heater control and the instrument cluster for a '95. I did put the steel frame for the dash in to see what I need to do. I need to cut 2 inches from each side, to keep the center radio,heater controls etc. centered. I am looking at 2 inches on the three channel bars on the glove compartment side. There is a space just right of the steering wheel column that has rear defroster/rear wiper control. I'll be cutting that out, or at least narrowing it. It depends on how I shorten the plastic under shell. I think 2 inches will preclude using the GC cluster. I might need to adapt a '95 Cherokee cluster I have. I will need to cut off and relocate the warning light block. I also looked at GC and Cherokee center consuls, E-Brake/parking brake and tilt steering wheels. I have GC E-Brake. Their cable runs through the body. The Cherokkees goes under the body at the mechanism. So for a Comanche, I think the GC's will work better. The '95 GC steering column should bolt up with no mods. It pivots mainly the head of the steering column. The latter Cherokee ones pivot further under the dash. So you need to adapt the aluminum bracket. I will need to use a 97-99 Cherokee heater controls. The GC has an electronic heat control, while the Cherokee has a cable control. That should match the present Comanche's cable control. Tom

I'll look into chopping out that vent. I am thinking of slicing were the cluster hump meets the flat of the glove box side for the vinyl. I need to go to the PnP this next weekend and see if I can find the missing dash parts. That would help a lot. Tom

I took off the vynil cap, wiring and other stuff off the GC dash. I don't have a complete dash. I need to seperate the plastic frame from the metal frame. Then I'll have to see were the best place to take out to narrow it. I am thinking a cut at the steering column channel and the top middle bracket. On the vynil cap, I am hoping to be able to cut 4 inches on the drivers end. That is problably the best place to hide a seam. Weather it will work or not, remains to be seen. Its a free dash, so its just time. Tom