75sv1

Here's a link to the NAXJA forums: http://www.naxja.net/forum/showthread.p ... &t=1023104 I think the 2nd page as one for an MR2, then the last page ,7, has the one for the Dodge Stealth Mitsu 3000GT manual shifter. There is even a video showing the shifter working. Tom

I did some trading. I traded the 3" RC springs for some 4" Super lift springs. It cost me shipping the 3" springs to the other person. I did buy a brush guard from a member on this board. I am reassesing my plans. I am going in the direction of rebuilding the Dana 300 with the stock gears for the moment. I did get a Mitsubishi 3000GT manual shifter off of E-Bay. Some Jeepers are using them in place of twin sticks. It cost me $50 shipped, with the cables. The Hellcreek 4.5" rear springs came in. They look good. My neihbor might have a line on a Ford Explorer 8.8 with 3.73 gear LS. I am hoping on a cheap price. I haven't done much to the XJ yet. I did get a '97 FSM for it. I need to run through the wiring and diognostic test to get it running. I want it running before I swap wiring etc. and selling of parts. Tom

I have put in an '03 4.0L from a GC, into my '88 Comanche. I did put a '95 head on it. The problem you might run into is that two of the engine mount bosses on mine were different. One was longer and one was shorter. They were in the same location. The shorter one was easy, I added a spacer. I think it was .916 in length. The other side, I had one of the ears on the engine mount cut and welded to compensate for the extra length on the boss. The engine brackets are cast steel, so the weld easy. At least the welder told me that. Another person who had the same problem, cut down the boss. Another difference, is the water pump bolt pattern. I don't know how or if it will affect you. It has an additional bolt in the pattern, and there are two holes in different location. I am planning to use the GC accesory drive on that. There is also a square post or boss on the drivers side. It is for the A/C compressor mounting. I don't think it would affect anything, if you went with an XJ or MJ accesory drive. I'd probably keep the Intake and Throttle Body. There is a way to wire the Throttle Position sensor for the Renix to use a newer TB. Tom

Might look at the MADXJ site. They do have a write up on a cold air intake. I don't think cone filters are the problem. It is that you are sucking in the hot air from the engine. Tom

Thanks, and I'm in no rush. So, take your time. Tom

Its a Jeep Thing, no one understand, it's not suppose to make sense either. :D If I remeber right the one Bronco that was locacally here, looked like a bit of work. The Comanche ran fairly well. I had to get some work done to it at the time. $1400 and $600 is work. Here's some more pics of it. I did start to clean out the interior. I have a lot of work in there. I should be stripping that out. Roller rockers, '95 MT wiring harness, Renix TB and Intake, The intake on the engine in the bay is a 2000 XJ. I am leaning to a WJ accesory setup. There might be complications with the WJ's water pump. Also, it would put the Alternator higher. I should already have the brackets. Tom

I mainly cleaned the XJ Friday and Saturday. There was a lot of paper, trash and about $8 in coins. I gave the lock-pick set back to the original owner, along with some other stuff. The pics are of the cleaned vehicle. I looked at fuses in the engine bay and the relays. It didn't help any, still didn't start. I didn't have time for the NSS, and I need to check the fuses in the inside first. IMG][/img] I also duct taped the windshield up. It looks a lot worst with out. I needed to keep the rain out. Overall the interior looks very good. I am thinking of using the headliner and the rear speakers. I'll have to see how that goes. Still, deciding on a few things. The header panel is damaged, and I am going to graft on older style signal lights to it. I should be selling some of the parts from the '88 Comanche. I want to get the engine running on the '98 before it goes for sale. Tom

Thanks, yes I only need the ends. I have a damaged '98 header panel and if I splice in the earlier style, it should repair it. Also, I like the looks of the earlier turn signals. This way, I can make my good header panel avaialbe here for a decent price. I'll PM you me adress. Also let me know what shipping is, and I'll send you a personal check to cover that. Tom

I am looking for a damaged header panel, or front valance, 87-96. I want the end pieces. So something damged in the middle. I want to graft the end parts onto a 97-2001 header panel. Basically, I want the side blinker lights of the early style with the newer header panel. I am doing a swap of newer fnders and doors etc. I just don't want to cut up the good header I do have. Tom

The original gearing should be 3:09 or 3:10 or such. If you plan larger tires, the 3:79 (?) from the Ford exploerer should be good up to about 31's. Tom

'nice build but let me ask you and I'm not being a fool. you can't afford a bronco II but you can buy a trans and a motor and rebuild it???? bronco II's are like 500-800.00 around here in good shape' I was looking at the '64 to '76 era Broncos. There was one for sale near by at the time. I forget the price. It was quite a bit more than $800 at the time. Also, a lot of work. I drove my Comanche a few years, before I bought the trans and engine. So there was a different state of finances. I also bought the engine and trans about 4 to 5 years ago. I've owned this Comanche since 2000. I did order the Hell Creek 4.5 rear springs yesterday. I also found an article on Jeepin.com to clean the NSS. Hopefully pics of stuff I have, some of the owrk to the Comanche with new engine and tranny in, and pics of the Cherokee. Tom

Fred, If this works out better for you, then got for it. I can get seats a bit latter. I do have XJ seats to convert, if needed. I'll still call latter tonight to make sure what you want to do. Tom Hey Tom. I don't want to get in the way if you want to make the trade. I was just gonna offer a second if you couldn't. Fred, I am going to work on the truck tonight and the seat is already out, I can get some pics if you want sir. Thanks, Mark Mark, If you are going to use the seats, its OK. I have a ton of stuff to get done. I could use the seats, but time is killing me at the moment. To many projects. Also, if it works out better for Fred, then its OK with me. Tom

Is is not even engaging the starter? Is it an automatic? If so, check the NSS. They fail/get dirty regularly. Willy Willy, Turning the key, it does nothing. I had to use a remote starter, to crank over the engine. I didn't check if I was getting spark from the coil or to the spark plugs. I does sound like it is probably something like a NSS (neutral saftey switch). I don't know if it ran after the tree fell on it. Thanks for the info, Tom

Fred, If this works out better for you, then got for it. I can get seats a bit latter. I do have XJ seats to convert, if needed. I'll still call latter tonight to make sure what you want to do. Tom

Fred, I'll call later tonight. Tom

I got home a bit late, as I had some OT to get in. I stopped by to get something to eat and ask the previous owner if the XJ had an alarm system. I am having problems starting it. It doesn't have an alarm. I tired putting in more gas into the tank and some other stuff. The alternator was stuck. I loosened the belt, but it still didn't start. I'll have to check electrical components. The key won't turn the starter, I had to use a remote starter control. I didn't get a chance to take pictures. Here are some pictures of the head I did. Its a '95. I ported and polished the ports and bowl. Those are Elgin 2.0 and 1.6 SS Chevy SM valves. They are the same hieght as Jeep 4.0L valves. The stems are a bit bigger. Had the guides reamed to fit them. The springs are 4.0L, I forget which engine I had they were pulled from. I think they where near new. I used Chevy SB retainers and keepers. I had to machine down the spring location OD about .030. The stem seals are Chevy. That's what the machine shop put in there. I remeber useing Ford 400M push rods. I did a bunch of measuring and they fit. I am using MOPAR roller rockers. I don't know what MOPAR uses for their push rods for these. Tom

Red, I am well aware of this problem. I did use a '95 flywheel. For some reason, I wanted to delete the EGR valve. EPA, emmisions stuff. Probably where I'm at not a problem. I did a cross reference and the '95 MT flywheel cross references with the '98 MT flywheel. I did see the other swap of interior on this forum and JeepForum. It's a big help. It clarified the bracket and some other stuff. If I use all the '98 wiring, I think I'll be fine. I will have to figure out the MT vs Auto wiring. I know its been done before. The '98 also has Anti-lock braking. I plan to eliminate it. Mainly, because of the axle choices. Also, probably delete the airbags. Then again, see what problems are there. Tom

Now I was fairly content to just do the 4X4 bit. I kind of like the straight lines of the early years. I did plan at one point to put in a newer dash and bucket interior. A couple of years back, we had some flooding out hear in the Midwest. It actually shut down the palnt were I worked at for about a week. I went back to PA, to vist me parents. My mom was stuck in Chicago for part of that week. Well, just before going on vacation, I went into Hope to get something to eat. The owner of the place was talking of trading in his '98 Cherokee to get a PU or something else with a bed. Just before the storm, a tree fell on his Cherokee with him in it. He had a Ford Explorer Trak sitting there that day. We went driving around town to look at the floud. Little Haw Creek was a ragin river. Anyways, last year he was trying to sell the Cherokee. I offered $500. He thought he could get more at auction. He only got $200 bid. It came up in conversation about a month ago. The boyfriend on one of his waitresses was going to buy it. Last week, I asked about it. It was still for sale. I offered $500. He said OK. I said 'take a check'. "Sure.' Out came the check book. My neighbor helped tow it home last night with his trailer. It didn't start and one of his friends helped tow it onto the trailer. Someone had swiped the tires that were on it :fs1: . Oh, well. I still figure I'm money ahead. It is home at least. I know: :needpics: I'll get some pics of the XJ. It could probably be saved as a Wheeler. Its just a lot cheaper for the parts. I am thinking of changing directions a bit and going with all '98 wiring. I will need to get a '98 MT ECM though. I have a '95 MT ECM, '88 MT ECM and of course the '98 AUTO EMC. I will be keeping things for now, till I figure out what I need to keep. I might have the engine sold, but not the tranny. But left over parts will be sold, here first. Tom

This is a story of an '88 Jeep Comanche 2wd 4.L MT. The name Sue come from a combination of Johny Cash songs. Now, I don't claim to be Johny Cash cool. I think every one has heard 'A Boy Named Sue'. There was another John Cash song were he liberates parts on year at a time from the Cadillac factory. In the nend he has a car with one tail fin, and parts from about every year. I bought this Comanche in '00. It replaced an '85 Ford Tempo. I was looking at older Ford Bronco, but they were a bit out of my price range. This one was sitting on a used car lot in Hope. Yes, blow-by. It did well during construction of my garage space. The slave cylinder finally get go. I wanted to put in an AX-15. Then a NV 3550 was won on E-Bay. I bought an adapter slave cylinder from Advance Adapters. Also a Center Force Clutch. The original motor was doing fine, but for some reason I bought an '03 4.0L on E-Bay from a GC. 3K miles. The engine mounting bracket bosses are a bit different for that year. A spacer and a relocation weld on one of the bracket did the trick. I also put a '95 Head on it. I used Elgin brand SS Chevy valves. There are Mopar Roller Rocker arms, too. I have a '95 valve cover for it. M.O.R.E. motor mounts. A B&M Short Throw shifter. I do have parts coming for a lift. I plan on a 4" to 5" lift. I do have 31" tires on Canyon rims. A Ford 8.8 is planned for the rear end. I do have the MORE kit coming. I plan to use Hell Creek rear springs. Also, I have a Dana 300 for the Transfer case. I plan to get a 4:1 gear kit for it and twin sticks. I have tha case painted and disassembled. Also, probably a Dana 44 from a Waggy (74-80 ??) for passenger drop.

I looked at the steel brackets. The passenger side looked good. The drivers side was good, with a bit of surface rust, or more like patina. There was a few tears in the vinyl on the drivers side. Tom

"Ok, the color is ok for now until i reapholster it. Is it in decent shape? Does it have any rust, etc? What state are you in?" I'm in Hope, Indiana 47246. I'll have to check on the rust. I'll try and pull the seat out in the next few days. Tom

I do have a bench seat to trade. Its cordoba or the redish brown color. Tom

OK, then I don't know exactly what you are asking. Since you have listed that you are using the '87 flywheel, I'll assume that you plan to use your Renix ECM and other wiring. I didn't go this route with mine. But from memory, you'll either have to adapt the ERG valve or delete it. If no smog laws, then delete would be the best option. The next is to adapt the throttle position sensor and also the throttle body. Since, I would assume you sent with the newer manifold, then keep the newer throttle body. That way it matches the manifold. So, what you need next is how to adapt the throttle position sensor. There are some writeup on the web for that. I remember someplace selling a conversion kit for this. It was about $100. I'd check Cherokee America for a write up. Also, maybe Rusty's for that kit. Tom

I never really though about a flip kit. I think there are other options on a Passenger side drop. I haven't really looked at that problem in a while. My main concern at the present is the Ford 8.8 and what I need to do to get an even lift, Front and rear. Rusty's list a 4.5" lift kit. Then the rear springs on their site says 4" lift. I didn't know about Hell Creek spring options. The Metric Ton springs with their long AAL might work. I just didn't see link to it on their website. I was originally looking at DPG for some front spring or RE setup. Still, a bit expensive. I might have to see what the rear lift nets and then match springs to that. Spacer or the adjustable spacer might work out. Mine will be a daily driver, so some ride comfort is wanted/needed. Tom I did a websearch: '74-'79 Wagoneer Narrow-Track Dana 44 Differential Location: Passenger side Lug Pattern: 6-on-5.5 Good For: At about 60 inches wide it's a good streetable swap for most Jeeps with a passenger drop T-case Pros: Very common in wrecking yards, heavy-duty axle tubes, cheap, easy to convert to other popular lug patterns with bolt-on junkyard parts Cons: Will need to outboard mount leaf springs if used on CJ or YJ Identified By: Stop sign like diff cover, spring-under housing, 60 inches wide '74-'79 Cherokee Chief/J-Truck Wide-Track Dana 44 Differential Location: Passenger side Lug Pattern: 6-on-5.5 and 8-on-6.5 (some truck) Good For: It's basically a full-width axle (66 inches wide), good for light-duty full-width conversions on CJs, YJs, TJs, XJs and others with a swapped in passenger side drop T-case Pros: Fairly common, heavy-duty axle tubes, easy to convert to other popular lug patterns with bolt-on junkyard parts Cons: Will need to outboard-mount leaf springs if used on CJ or YJ, spring-under housing Identified By: Stop sign like diff cover, spring-under housing, 66 inches wide So at least one option. Maybe a few inches wide and the bolt pattern is different. Still, doable.

Pete, You may be right on the CJ axles. I went with the Dana 300, I guess more for I wanted to be different. With twin sticks and 4:1 ratio it will give me flexibility of FW, RW and 4WD in both Hi and Low. I'll probably never use it though. Tom