75sv1

Might also look into slider shackles. Suppose to be 'almost' like a 4-link rear. I think they add 1/2-1 inch of lift. I was curious about them. I need or want to 'de-lift' a bit in the rear. So, I put that idea or plan on hold. Then again I don't know if there is one specific for the MJ.

There is the Transgo shift kits. I installed one on an XJ. It was the basic kit. The Trans or vehicle had some other issues. It ran OK, but can't say it did or did not do anything. I do have the HD kit, but haven't installed it. There are rebuild kit option. Basically Raybestos yellow band and Raybestos Blue band. Also, there are manual override shift kits or electronic toggle switches. There is a write up on one of the Jeep board with Toyota parts for an upgrade. Not sure on pans, there probably is one. Best thing is to put a trans cooler on.

I looked at the rebuild kits. There are ones for about $250 and some for $450 ish. I did look into have mine rebuilt. It was $950 with a rebuilt torque converter. That was with the trans out of the vehicle. Probably no different than any other trans. You can do a web search. There are a few rebuild threads and such.

Might look at Car-Parts.com. Has listing nation wide. I did a search. Look for B&T Auto Part in Sparta NC. 208K and $200. Still, do a South East or other search. Might find one you like better.

If its any help, the bolt location are the same as an XJ/MJ. The one of the ones on the driver's side is 0.900 or so longer, than on an XJ. The passenger side one of them is 0.900 shorter than an XJ. So, you could cut down the one on the driver's side and drill and tap. I made a spacer for the passenger side. I might look at what or if Brown Dog could make something semi custom. It is a fabbed plate part.

Might not help. I put in a '95 GC steering wheel/column. I have not work out the electrics etc. More of a mock install. This was with the bucket seats. It seems to give a 1-2 inch more room. I felt less pinched than the stock one. I'm 5-11 + 210 lbs. Still, it all depends on arm length and other proportioning. I plan to install the GC dash. Yes, there is some cutting to do.

Thanks for the reply. I did talk to my neighbor. He works as a mechanic, usually at a Jeep Dealership. Was actually putting in a trans into his Dakota. Said dry unless needle bearings or such. So, I'll skip the lube for now. I might have the trans rebuilt sometime latter. Also, the FSM says to grease the splines on manual trans. Just so no one mistakes that.

I finally, installed a motor I replaced the crankshaft in. I didn't put any grease in the 'pilot bearing' hole in the crankshaft. Last time I put in some bearing grease. It was a bit hardened, when I took out the engine. I didn't see any mention of putting in grease in this location in the FSM. Do you run this area dry or not? I don't want to disassemble this if I don't have to. Still, I don't have the manifold or other stuff bolted on yet. Tom

The crankshaft should not move. Actually, it is only suppose to move about .002". Not a lot. I grabbed the harmonic balance and mine shifted at least 1/8". Not good. Hope you caught yours in time. As for the .002 to I think .006 specs, you need to put a dial indicator secured to the engine block and one the crankshaft end. Then pry the crankshaft forward and back. I did take off the pan and the thrust bearing was worn on the crank. I had to replace it. If the thrust bearing is not worn, you might be able to put in need bearings. So, I'd just pull forward and back on the harmonic balancer and see if you can detect any movement. If not, then I'd just put on a new harmonic balancer.

Fairly simple. get a harmonic balancer puller. You will need to remove the radiator. Then install a new one. The elastomer or rubber ring goes bad on these. I'd check crankshaft end play. I just had one go bad. It took out the thrust bearing surface on the crank. Yes, my belt was getting chewed up, a lot of squeeking etc. A new one is about $50.

As for Hi Flow, you might look at Mr Gasket. I think a similar design as the Robert Shaw, or look on E-Bay. I would not use a 180 degree. It really won't help if you are running a higher temp than that. You usually want to run about 205-210. The 180 is/was for the early fuel injection on the drag strips. The temporary low temp would trick the system to run a bit richer. For a run or two. A lot of bad stuff can happen with cooler engine temps. Yes, even in OK. I lived in Tulsa for a few years. Think larger or two row radiator if you need lower temps. Also, trans cooler if Auto and an oil cooler.

I think the original is pressed in. Not sure if they sell them that way or not. I just put in a 'new' pump, I had for 10 years or more. It was not fun to 'press' in the new tube. I had to file down the OD. Also used anaerobic sealant. Not sure if that helps you any.

The Wrangler lines are good for 3 to 4" lift, I think. Not sure on the rear, but I think Dodge Dakota is good for 4 inch lift or so on an XJ.

Caution: I had a harmonic balancer slipping. Sounded like a belt. Did PS pump, alt, idler pulley, AC bracket replaced. Missed the Harmonic balancer. I was going to replace the alternator again. I installed a HI-Amp one and ground on the bracket. Anyways, replacing the alternator, timing chain and the harmonic balancer, the old one was an 1/8-1/4 forward. The thrust bearings were shot and damaged the crank. This is on a '98 XJ.

I was not implying that the 99.5+ intake was worth a bunch of HP. Just that some strokers claim 300 hp. At that, I think they sonic map the block for core shift. Some have reported losses with the 99.5 intake. I would agree that what you do on intake will not see a huge gain, till you do upgrade the exhaust system. I think Dino claimed 220 hp from a stock engine.

I would add the 99.5+ intake manifold. I think some advertise 300 hp with the stroker. 260-270 is commonly advertised with strokers.

Are you going to mix parts or complete engine? Complete engine I'd say 96-99. For the block, Mexican block RENIX era or the latter blocks. '91-95 head. I'd add the crank support cradle from the latter engines if using a RENIX block. Might look into a budget stroker or even the long rod one.

I think 87-01 MJ and XJ the water pumps will fit on the blocks. What you have to watch out for, is that the height on the water pumps can be different. I think there are two heights, possibly for each design era (RENIX, HO, and Late HO). On the latter blocks WJ and '01 TJ and up, the bolt pattern is different.

I'd probably use a latter model year. Also, probably use the latter years oil pan gasket.

Its probably water and oil mixture. Could be some coolant leaking into the oil.

I thought Ford had problems with their blocks or heads "made in Mexico'. As for the 0331 head, I read somewhere part of the problem was that the slag did not get removed in some areas. Some they did not get annealed properly. I don't think I would term what Chrysler did as cheapening the block. Maybe on the HO 1st Gen. Trying to keep up with CAFE and emissions is a challenge. About the mid 90's Ford did the Duratec casting on the Duratec V-6 and the Z-Tech V-4. I want to say Cosworth did the prototyping on this process. Thinner, but stronger casting. Trying not to go to aluminum. Cast Iron was getting expensive during this time. Even machinery manufactures were trying to reduce cast iron in their machines. Cast iron dampens vibration. Usually a cast iron frame with a polymer or even concrete shell.

The proverbial VAM engines? Weren't those the older 258 c.i.d. engines? I read somewhere that it is the 4.0L. I could be wrong. Suppose to be there are the ones with a single flange rib (US??) and the double bottom flange rib (Mexico.

Also, it might depend on the RENIX era block. To my knowledge there were some cast in the US and some in Mexico. The ones from Mexico are suppose to be better.

I use the NAPA 41515 Platinum filter. I do understand the argument that cheaper oils are good enough. I would argue that with out an oil analysis you don't know what is best for your engine.

My 12K was in a Ford Contour. Ran the engine on synthetics from 20K to 214K. Never used a drop. I usually ran to 8K. I used Castrol Syntech till about 150K. Shaffer once (good oil). Then Pennzoil Platinum. As for the article, Prolong ??. I'll have to read it more. Still, T6 is rated better than other premium oils. I won't say its the best out there, but good enough. He also rates a diesel oil very high. I think Castrol. Engine to engine, oils can perform differently. Also, have to watch viscosity. I ran a 20W-50 in my 4cyl Contour. Didn't like it. Also, thicker oil can rob you of fuel mileage.