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About Dill30705

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  1. http://www.stinkyfab.com/sfr-trail-proof-engine-mounting-plates-jeep-xj-87-01-yj-87-95-tj-97-99/ Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  2. Might look at aftermarket mounts from stinky fab. It used a few additional holes in the block for a stronger mount. These additional mounting points may save your butt if you can’t get one or both of these out that are broke. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  3. If I do go this route I will defiantly build a 1/4 thick skid to protect the tank. For on and off road protection. The only xj I have owned had one for both of these reasons
  4. https://goo.gl/photos/Q1jmtScVVxfNXygK6 See photos in link for how I cut my bed and then made the bumper wrap around for a more finished look. Which I really like how it looks but it will show any tank that isn't pretty thin.
  5. Looks like a decent fit depending on how much of the cross brace your willing to cut out. Looks like 33 inches would work out about right but ideally I think 16 inches is about as wide of a tank as I'd want. The depth would be fine to if I Had not cut the back lower half of my bed off from the style line down. Because of how I trimmed my bed you would see a large amount of the tank sort of like how you can see the tank on an xj
  6. I have read ever one of those spare fuel tank post I could find and none really seemed to ever go anywhere once it was all said and done. There was no real exactly answers they all were speculation it seemed like.
  7. Thanks for the help and concerns. I'm not at all worried about the safety aspect there is a 1/4 steel heavy built bumper protecting the tank and the mounts go about 16 down the frame rails with multiple mounting bolts on each side. As far as just moving the tank I'm not actually wanting a spare tank I'm wanting to relocate the tank to provide room in from on the axle for possible 4 link suspension setup. I will defiantly take a look at the f150 tank if the are designed to fit factory in the location one could possibly work.
  8. I'm looking at an alum from summit racing currently 30"x17"x7" built in fuel pump and gm sending unit 0-90ohms to match oem gauge. $230 dollars roughly. This might be the route I go. I'll have to measure when I get home this might require cutting part of the x brace out and re bracing with stronger metal tubing.
  9. Thanks I'll have to look one up and check it out.
  10. Thought about it but I don't think I could make it work with factory fuel filler location. If I could find a long skinny one that might fit under the tool box though that might could be neat but I have never used a fuel cell like that before so I don't know much about them. How to fill them easy, do they make them with fuel sending units so I could know fuel level with factory gauge etc.
  11. Anyone have ideas for what size fuel tank would fit in the spare tire area on a short wheelbase 4wd 92 mj. I'm looking possibly at a tj or xj or maybe yj tank but don't know if Any would fit. Does anyone know the dimensions of these tanks? I don't mind altering cross brace under the bad some to make extra room. Looking to move the tank to create room for 3 link or triangulated 4 link.
  12. Luckily I know I guy down the road that has a Comanche and Cherokee junk yard and is willing to sale to me. I'm just hesitant to buy used leafs with a ton of miles on them. Are 2wd leafs different than 4wd? everything I can find says they offered what I have same as 2wd leafs 1230lb rated and then the metric ton leafs 1700lb rated I believe.
  13. Click the link to view photos! https://goo.gl/photos/Q1jmtScVVxfNXygK6
  14. I'm in the process of getting rid of the Rustys junk under my 1992 mj short bed 4wd and need some advice for a better ride. Right now the truck is lifted 5ish inches in the rear and 4 to 4.5 in the front with a cheap rustys short arm and spring over kit. I have installed WJ knuckles and brakes. Eaton elocker and 4.11 gears. Went to full crossover highsteer setup with chevy Tie rod ends and WJ brakes. I custom made a new track bar and currently my drag link and track bar are almost parallel and level. I'm in the process of replacing rustys springs with ome springs and a cavfab 3 link in the front. I have bilstien 5100 shocks all around. Here is where it get interesting I have a ford 8.8 disk break rear end I installed and after getting it put in I have realized that I have sagging lead pack on 1 side. The overload leaf has already been removed from the previous owner and it currently is pretty stiff ride in the back. I have contemplated going with oem replacements for $350 rated at 1230lbs. Alcan springs quoted me $630 plus shipping they said they could make a set rated at 1000lbs. Or I'm thinking about ripping it all out and doing a 3 link or 4 link rear with 2 inch lift TJ coils which should fit perfect. It's looking like with the gas tank I don't have room to make a 4 link or crossmember to place the 3rd link on so I'm not sure that having the 3rd link on 1 side might be to much stress for the unibody. I was thinking of making plates that bolts to the frame for the lower control arm mounts and I think that will be fine but the upper control arm mount has me stumped. I have thought about going with an xj or tj or yj fuel tank in the spare tire area but don't know if they would fit. Then I could make a crossmember for the upper and lower links. Has anyone ever seen this done? Do you think it's worth the investment of probably $1000 in materials? Would the ride be any better with say 2.5 lift ome soft springs from rear of a tj then the leafs that are under it now. I will post pictures as soon as I figure out how.
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