75sv1

As for the +'00 intake, I've followed various threads on it, since the earlier 2000s. Some lost power. One that was dynoed reported +5hp. There is a write up of I think 30 HP gain. There were other changes and injectors changed etc. No believable to me. I think earlier makes Pre 95 you need to space out the PS Pump. As for headers, I did have a Pacesetter on my MJ. It was the Ceramic coated. It did OK. The coating was still good after two years. I do have a Clifford on my MJ. I haven't run it. Black Ceramic coating. I'll probably replace it with a Doug Thorley.I have a ceramic coated one on my XJ. I think only the Pace Setter and Borla are CARB certified. Clifford has the bung for the EGR. That is another issue with swapping the intake if in an emission State. I did think of welding in the EGR boss from the RENIX intake to a latter one. Not in an emission state so moved on from that. I think doing the exhaust and boring the TB would help more. The RENIX might not have the HP, but it has near the same torque. My Comanche with 5spd seemed peppier than either of my '98 XJs with Auto. I think it got better mpg too. Also, most of your changes on the intake side won't see a bit difference, till you improve the exhaust. Walker makes a down pipe, without the dent, I think. Also Adi-Mix.

The stock Durango is suppose to limit your turning radius. Make sure you read up on the mods to gain more turning. There are protrusions on the internal side of the end cap, that get ground off. I forget if there was something more. I might have noticed a bit better with the WJ PS pump and stock box. Not sure though, as a few other changes. The extra hole or port in the reservoir might have just been that particular year. Some, as I've been told used the fluid from the PS pump for the clutch fan. Need to check on that.

The 2002 intake should work. I have the latter intake on a '98 XJ. I do have an '03 WJ 4.0l motor that I was fitting into my MJ. Long story. I am going to put a stroker in now. Anyways, They PS pump should work. I have one in my XJ. I think there are two different versions on the latter intakes. On one of mine the throttle cable bracket has 3 bolts, like the earlier ones. One has two. The WJ did have a 'Power Intake' or such. I think HESSCO has an adapter kit for the HO TB to Rennix wiring.

I did put on a WJ PS Pump on my XJ. I do plan this for my MJ. I can't say one way or another as to helping or not. I did rebuild the pump before installing it. There is an extra hose port on the one I pick from a PnP, the fluid reservoir.. I put a fine thread bolt up in it. Put sealant on the threads. Put a vacuum cap over it, and a hose clamp. Seems to work OK. I did replace the steering gear box with a rebuilt unit a bit before that. The XJ reservoirs didn't fit the XJ pumps. You might look at KJ reservoirs. I have read that with the Durango box, the WJ pump helps. I do have a Dakota gear box rebuilt for the MJ. I did have OTK steering put on recently and WJ Big Brakes and a Ford 8.8 on the XJ. I am getting use to it, but feels so much better on the highway and in twisty roads. The pump was bolt on. I can't remember if I needed to get a different PS hose or not. I did have to replace the bolt fitting with the XJs one. Its the one in your pic with the pressure hose going to it.

I have the relay harness Pete M linked to, or similar. It cost me more. I also have Autopals. Both work good for me. I'd say double the light on each upgrade. NAPA does have relays that will replace the ones provided. I do have Flosser std bulbs that I will replace the ones provided with the Autopals. No real problems in about a year or more with the Autopals. The harness about 6 months or more. I did have one of the relays come out. More my installation. I do think Cibies to be better.

Basically, what Eagle wrote. Rotella does make a 10W-30 oil. I have used it in my XJs and my MB240D (colder temps). I am running Rotella 5W-40 T6. I do not see a pressing need to run synthetic in this engine though. Also, convention oils have come a long way from when this engine was designed.

I think that the AX-15 cross mount from '92?? is different than the auto mount. At least from say a later '98. I was swapping between an '88 Renix BA10/5 mount and one I got with a AX-15 from I think a '92. It had the internal slave cylinder. I'll have to see if the latter '01 cross member are different between the auto and the NV3550, or if it is just a mount part difference. Edit: Did some searching. Found a listing or parts manual for the '01 Cherokee. The '01 have the NV3550. From what I could see, there is a difference between both the mount and the cross member. THe manual number listed were 52058 883AB for the mount and 52003 929AD for the cross member.

I did look at Rock Auto. The PN for the 01 manual trans mount was different than for the '98. I didn't see if there was a difference for the 01 cross member. Or if there was one for the auto vs manual in '01.

I am sort of in the same boat. I put a NV3550 in my '88 Comanche. I need to look into the '01 XJ with the NV3550. Yes, my trans is stuffed up against the trans tunnel.

Hey, there's an MJ behind those lights.

I don't, but are they the same as what was on the '80's Mustang? I think they are Marchal's, too. Looks good. Didn't splurge for a set for the headlights? OK, those require a bank loan.

I'd check the gear box. Try adjusting it. I did have to replace the bushing in a Rusty's Track bar. It did help.

I've had a vehicle in a body shop for almost 4 yrs now. It sat out side for 1.5 yrs. I did see it yesterday. I even talk to a few lawyers. Things can go bad. I did take it to another shop, but couldn't justify the $5K at that time. I was quoted $2.8K from the one shop. Check to see if your state has an 'Automotive Repair Act'. Or other laws. Definitely, do not walk out of there without a contract as to the work to be done. Might state time frame too. As for prices, yes it can go way up depending on the quality. I think the first shop was talking about $8K or more for really nice. Mine included some body work. I think a bit more than expected. A good paint, no body work would have been $3K. Might see if there are any vo-tech or other schools that do Automotive body work. One of my brothers business partners has a son who runs one in another state. My Comanche might make it there, if I get back on it.

I used the Zip ties, but would prefer the bracket. I have a tube fin one. It was something I picked up at a garage sale. It was for a Ford Ranger. I do have the DPG 2 row or is it 3-row. It is a brass radiator. I have heard of a few who run two trans coolers. If I did a lot of towing, I would consider this.

I'd list your options. Did you miss something? Don't know. Also, might look at ZEREX Z05 coolant. Mix it on the heavy side. Possibly a ceramic header, to keep the heat out of the engine bay. What radiator do you have? Do you also have an oil cooler? I haven't gone that route yet. I don't tow 3500 lbs either. Some used to use LeBaron hood vents. What speeds were you running? A constant speed? Or varied?

I can't remember what my '88 MJ has at the cat. My '98 XJ is a slip fit.

I should also add that the 'dent' can cost you power. The Walker might not have the dent. I think Omix or one of the others might not either. Might be stainless, but a lot more money. Let us know how the Banks Revolver works out. Almost went that route. The Thorley is ceramic coated, that was a deciding factor for me.

That dent is stock. You might look at Walker or other replacement down pipes. Then again, I do not know if the Banks requires a 'custom' down pipe. I just put on a Doug Thorley. You can weld on their adapter or have custom down pipe made up. I cobbled something to get mine running. I still plan or need to have a custom one made. I was quoted $200.

No, they had a HUGE problem in the rust belt with the two-piece rotors self-destructing. They finally went back to a one-pieve design, and I believe the change was made in mid-year of the 1999 model run. That would explain why there are two part numbers. If so, look at the height difference between the two bearing hubs. It should be obvious. I think about 1/4 inch.

OP, this is correct info. It should be if you have a Hi-pinion or low pinion front axel. I think they changed in '00. If you keep the rotors from the same years and hub bearing units, they will stack up correctly. The calipers are the same. I did put in a low pinion 30 in a '98. Used the '98 bearings and rotors.

If you found the fitting type that the connection goes into, and then that in female, with a pipe thread on the other end. Then tap the broken area for that pipe thread. So it should be a threaded O-ring port with a pipe thread on the male end. Edit: so Female Straight Thread O-ring fitting (measure size of present thread) to a Pipe Thread (that would near fit inside the present hole. Also, put grease on the tap to hold the chips to it. So, they don't get inside the trans. I had a model airplane engine head done this way for its muffler. Think I've seen it done elsewhere.

Could be the grill is in the natural 'Jeep' position. The rest of it ain't. As to oil leaks, start with the valve cover. I used the rubber Felpro gasket, the $30-$50 one. Or use the good RTV. The cork ones don't seem to hold up. Next, would be the Oil Filter housing. Again get the FelPro kit. Although the 'bolt' orings seemed wrong size. Then the Oil pan gasket and rear main seal. Helps to install a 4.5" lift. Then the oil pan slides right out. Also, the front timing cover might be before the Oil pan.

Not sure of the exact problem. Could be TPS, Speed sensor or even other. I did have a Speed sensor go out on a '98. The rear one. The earlier ones only have one, I think. Yes, I snapped that bolt off. It was in there good. Then an easy out snapped off. I drilled around it all. Then J-B welded in an insert. That was after solenoid being replaced, shift kit and probably other stuff. You can check the speed sensor. I think you need to use an analog volt meter though. I didn't have luck with a digital. NSS and Brake Light switch are also in the circuit.

I just put in a 93-98 ZJ valve cover on my '98 XJ. It has the latter PVC type CCV fittings. I did put on a '95 XJ valve cover on my MJ. I did have to extend the rear CCV line. I think I upgraded to the latter and larger rear CCV line. Also, look at FelPro. They have a gasket that is much better than the cork ones. Its expensive at $35-$50.

My '88 had only the one mirror. It was rinky dink too. I remember a plastic base, but screwed into the door sheet metal somewhere. I think two screws. I might have that mirror somewhere.