75sv1

One of my local NAPAs had them in stock and on the shelf. I think it was a Sunday, too. I did order a kit from them. Maybe I had the same problem, and I didn't actually loose one. I'm in Hope IN

I thought the B&M coolers sort of by-passed the cooling fins when the fluid was cold. I did buy one for my Bricklin, but never installed. If you think your MJ or XJ gets HOT. Uh, NO! There is on XJ owner who uses a B&M before and after the radiator. I sort of want to do that at some point. I did not notice any temp difference in my XJ when I added a trans cooler. I'd have to check if it was before or after. I run about 210F on the gauge. I do not have a trans gauge.

I knew they were used in the Blowknox (sp) pavers. I used to work at a machine chop. The other side sold and serviced road grading equipment. I think the V-6 was similar, but not sure.

The flow data on the head came from Dino's Website years ago, as to the 7120, flowing the best. It was marginal as I recall. I think a bit of shift in the casting could cuase one to flow better than the other. No data to support that. As to the Mex block being stronger. That can be subjective or data I don't know. My info was from a stroker article years ago, posted on the web. It was more for an extreme stroker. The article said the Renix blocks had a thicker cylinder walls. There were/are casting improvements since then. Ford and Cosworth (I think) worked on the Duracast technique in the mid 90's. IE the Duratec and Zetech engines for the Ford Contours. The wall thickness was thinner, but less porosity. Also, in the early 2000's or maybe even the mid 90's there was spheroidal cast iron. I think you can do a web search and know more than I do about it. Again, stronger but thinner wall thicknesses. Also, less weight. As an aside sometimes you want more weight. I just gave away a few SAAB Sonnets. Long long story. Anyways, my brother still has a few engine blocks left. I was going to move them. They are V-4's. You should see the wall thickness on them. They weight more than a bit.

The cylinder spacing and bolts are the same. They should fit on all the blocks. The latter 96+ have locator dowel pins in the block. You would just have to align the head manually. HO is from 91-95. If for the later 96-up, I'd say dowel pin.

You need to look over the info Cruiser posted. Depends on what block or donor from 99-01. Those years I think XJ only. The one from the Grand Cherokees (WJs), are not drilled and taped for the XJ accessories. I am not sure when the Wrangler blocks changed. The Renix block might be the strongest. I think there are two different castings for the Renix block, a US and Mexico. I heard the Mexican one is actually stronger.

I read somewhere to reduce the torque value if using anti-sieze. Also, to calculate it if using an extension. ARP on their rod bolts prefer to use a micrometer measurement as to the stretch of the bolt. Steel is elastic to an extent. It stretches, it spring. That it until you exceed it limits. Then as mentioned above, it don't spring back.

Also, could try the CCV Big Tube Update for Blow-by. I am not sure of the year. Latter years XJs have a larger CCV tube. The fitting on the manifold needs to changed too.

If you replaced you injectors, I'd look elsewhere for problems. If having 'Blowby' as DC mentioned, I note that yours is an HO. A bit better valve cover than the RENIX. Still, the latter style is suppose to be better. I had a '95 valve cover on my '88. A bit of splicing in the rear tube. Yours should be a bit more direct. If you still want an aluminum VC, then I'd go with a '93-95 Grand Cherokee (ZJ) one.It has the latter style CCV grommets. I did. I did do the mod that Cruiser54 list. This is on a '98 XJ. On my '88 with the RENIX motor in it, I found that getting a good seal on the valve cover worked for me. The cork gaskets didn't hold up, for any length of time. So, RTV sealant or FelPro makes a rubber gasket for it. They are about $50, though. Have you replaced your O2 sensor? I am suspecting that oil is getting past your valves. Possibly your valve seals are bad. A lot of guessing. I'd try other stuff first though. $300-$400 and then gaskets, I think a few other things to try first. Also, squirt some oil in the cylinders and see if your compression goes up.

175k on these engines is not bad. They can go much longer. Oil lose can be seals. There is one under the distributor. As for the smoke issue, you might see about replacing the injectors. I put some Ford ones in both my '98 XJs. Didn't get any more power or MPG. Both engines seemed to run smoother. The smoke could be oil getting past the valve stems. I don't know about prices on head work. I thought mine was about $100. Still, it might be what type of work and also if your valves are being replaced. Also, what grade of valves.

What was the cost per quart? I don't see the oil you are suing as creating any problem, nor your interval to change it. I trust NAPA or Wix filters. I do run synthetics, still nothing wrong with a good conventional oil. I use Shell Rotella 10W30 in my XJ for a few years. This year I changed to the T6. If you change to a full synthetic, then double your change interval. If you are leaking oil, then I'd stick with conventional oils.

Could be the salve or the master cylinder for the clutch. I remember my master went out, then two weeks or so later the slave went out. What year?

Aren't the Neons a lower pressure? I thought about 18-21 was stock. That Strokers needed a 24-27 lb.

'Results flawed because dyno runs were taken taken on separate days? ' Yes, and to a large extent I don't know how much variables could or would effect results. The time span was from May to September, correct? Do you have to deal with summer/winter gas blends? I thought I saw temps and barometric pressure on other Dyno Results. How many miles were on the engine on the first run and then the 2nd run? I know anal questions.

I see flaws on to how the data was taken. Basically, as you pointed out, the runs were taken on separate days. Still, a good point of data. I'm no expert on dyno results. I remember someone reporting results from a dyno, years ago. I thought the results were on a stock motor or possibly some exhaust work. +5 hp. I made way to many changes to even say on driving impressions. Was the intake ported or even port matched? The other aspect is you did a lot of work, then changed the intake (??). So, the intake removed that restriction, to an extent. Dino Silva's results are interesting. Not on a dyno, but seemed good methodology. I'd also be interested in any head modifications. Going the stroker route, and have a kit in shipping.

Not really. Some of us deal with data results on a professional and daily basis.

Good to see the dyno results. First this is on a stroker motor, correct? I take it that the HP measurement was take on the rear wheels. I think that it specific HP. The dyno runs were taken on two different days?

No, when your clear of what your plan is, then maybe . From your post your all over the map. If you want to put on a 0330 head go for it. Do a dyno test. Let us know how it goes. Miss Cleo says you'll lose power.

I don't think that is the full aspect of what you want to do. There is a recent thread on swapping on the latter intake. I think you were the OP on that. I don't see where it would give you better options on the exhaust. After market headers should fit the RENIX. Look at injector swaps for the RENIX (Volvo). Not sure as to the fuel sending unit etc. , but that might be a lot of changes and update to a newer wiring/EMC. The TUPY head is not the best flowing head. Stroker people don't use it, as far as I know.

How does the HP of a TUPY head go against the grain??? IE it has smaller exhaust ports. No, I have not nor have the resources to prove it on a DYNO. To my knowledge DC did some other improvements to gain back some HP losses. Yes, I am aware that the size of the port is not totally indicative of the flow. I also pointed out that there would need to be other modifications, ie adapting the Throttle Body.

What is wrong with your '87 head? I'd probably have it rebuilt before I went through putting on a different era head. With the RENIX motor, you have to adapt the Throttle body. Also, I'd say you'd lose some power.

I think the latter ones 02-up are referred to as TUPY. I am going with a 7120 for my stroker. I have it on an 03 block presently. I put Chevy valves in it. The 0330 exhaust ports are about 1/2 the size of the other heads. The 7120 is suppose to flow a bit better than the 0630, but I don't think much. The 0630 has hoes for the locator pins.

One other source of wobble might be the hub bearings. I think the earlier ones are adjustable. Other chime in on this. I have adjusted some on a MB 240D. Two other things to look at for safety and drivability. The headlights, look at H4 conversion and headlight harness upgrade. For a bit more power, see if there is a dent in the down pipe or cross over pipe in the exhaust. Also, possibly bore your throttle body. Might help the I4 a bit. I don't know how important it is for the radiator to be upgraded on the I4.

There are two places to adjust the steering box. The one was pointed out.. The other is the front of it. There is some article on how to adjust the box. I think it was on a Wrangler. The manual is with an inch-lb torque wrench. I did pull the one on my XJ and used a torque wrench. Then I checked as per the article. It was real close. If I remember right the top one was tighten, then back off 1/4 turn. The front was the same I think. One mine the front seal leaked after that. I was pressed for time so I bought a rebuilt one from Advanced. I'd look over there stuff ie ball joints, tie rod ends etc. There is an upgrade with one of the ZJs front end parts. I like the rims you have. I'd keep them. Don't see them much. If a road vehicle, I'd only lift it if your tall and getting in and out is a bit of a problem. Not sure if I'd do a budget boost or not. Check Zone or BDS for a lift kit, also. I'd lean towards a 30 X 9(.5) tire. With the 4 cyl it might be better off. The steering box might not equal rack and pinion, but they can be pretty good. I have my XJ were I can be hand off and it tracks straight. I do have OTK steering, though. There are some other options. I forget what it is called, but some vendor makes a polyurethane bushing for the Y suspension. It suppose to work well.

Ditto on both replies above. I just had this done a few weeks ago. Mine is a 4:10. I found it readily in the PnP. Get a complete axel. IE brake calipers and rotors. You will need them as cores. I don't have the spacers on mine presently. The set I had was needed up front on the WJ Big Brake. I am using Canyon rims. The rear sway bar was removed on the rear. This is on an XJ. Get hub concentric spacers. That is not the brand. It is how the spacer will pilot on the axel. I bought some off E-Bay. The rear set was from Iron Rock Offroad. I haven't installed them yet. Iron Rock I think has a kit. Also, Ruff Stuff has some perches that are suppose to be for SUA. I have a set of those for the MJ, and for an ISUZU Rodeo Dana 44. Its an odd swap, that will match the front axel I am going with. As for the E-brake cables, on the XJ, Morris 4X4 sells a set. I think a KJ works for latter XJs. I think the cables from a Grand Cherokee might work for the MJ. I think some ZJs have rear disk. You can look at Rock Auto and see what the lengths are. Its been a few years since I looked at that. The ISUZU has a different E-Brake setup. I think I can use MJ brake cables. Don't go done that Rabbit hole. The ISUZU is a different beast. I needed the bolt patter to match a FS GC axel, that was needed for passenger side drop. Mine has LSD. I haven't noticed any quirks while driving it. For street use, they are suppose to last. My neighbor wheeled with one for a few outings. Performance was suppose to be good. It didn't last but a few outing, or so I was told.