ARareBreed

1991, Jeep, Comanche 4.0HO, AX15, 2WD, D35, 113" Swapped to 4wd with D30 front and Ford 8.8 rear 11/1990 Western New York Still on the Road Has factory front skid, eliminator model, white, grey interior, bucket seats.

That’s what I meant to say :/

Alright, I understand now. I still feel like the distributor is clocked 180* out. Since there are 2 turns of the cam for every 1 turn of the crank, if I rotate the crank 1 turn to be on the compression stroke.. the distributor would now be pointing at 1(that's what we want to achieve) but the tick marks would not be lined up between the two sprockets (the cam sprocket would now be 180* off). How has my engine been running this way!

Sorry to bring back an old thread but I just changed out my timing chain and here’s what happened. Ran perfectly before the job, but I needed to change the crank seal so I figured to change the 200k old chain while I’m in there. Pan was off since I also did a RMS and knew for sure #1 was at TDC, crank and cam sprocket tick marks lined up perfectly but my distributor was 180* out. It wasn’t pointing at 1. What gives? Was I on exhaust stroke of TDC? Logically it doesn’t make sense to me that 2 crank rotations equate to one cam rotation.

Thanks, yeah I did extensive research before replacing my injectors last winter and ordered a set from a reputable company. They could be the issue but I might rule them out. The injector part number I got was: 0280155703

I have a 1991 4.0HO and ran a compression test last night. 1: 140 2: 141 3: 140 4: 135 5: 138 6: 140 I'm getting very light weeping oil out in front of the distributor, but not enough to show a noticeable oil loss after 500-1000 miles. I tore a majority of the engine down already to replace the head gasket because of the weeping. Once I pull the head I will check for a crown where the pistons top out on the cylinder. And if the walls look scored or glazed I will pull the pistons and hone them. I might as well just change the rings too then, right? If the walls look good, I would prefer to leave the pistons as is. Is compression the only tell tail of bad rings or does burning oil tell me something too? The engine has 175,000 miles on it, so it's definitely tired. But it was very very well taken care of and I've been surprised before by the amount of love this Jeep was given. Once the head is pulled I plan to get it re-milled, cleaned, and completely rebuilt. So new valves should help the situation I think too. I got quoted for $300-$400, is that a lot? Now, I personally haven't noticed any smoke from the tail pipe. That is except for starting it the other day after sitting since October! There was a lot of blue/white smoke out of the pipe, but granted October is a very long time to sit. Wouldn't any engine do that?

Man, you're a wealth of knowledge. I'll check that out. Thank you. Edit: Found it has 012MX14 The 1's literally look like the capital letter i, but I assume they're 1's. So it's safe to say my piston bore issss, what?

Won't I need to machine the crank if I change the rod bearings?

I have a 1991 4.0ho eliminator and plan on tackling an engine rebuild next month. I'm going to drop the pan, again...(I replaced the rear main seal last winter) and need a new head gasket anyway. While I'm in there I'd like to replace the rings as shes burning more oil than I'd like. Is there a "tool of the trade way" to determine what size rings to get? I'd obviously like to get them in advance but I head rumors that back in the early 90's Jeep wasn't the most consistent with their assembly process. I do not want to get the wrong ring size. Also, does anyone have any leads on a good brand to buy?

There should be some unused orange/black wires for fog lights, heated mirror, auto trans idiot lights to the left and right of the steering wheel that you could use.

Yeah, it was a mixture of a bad bulb and too much grease. I never would have thought a single bad socket would cause issues through the whole circuit.

After tearing down the truck into pieces to find the issue, the problem has been solved. Too much oxgard conductive grease in the rear passenger lower tail light socket. Learned a lot through this whole fiasco. Now I can begin putting the truck back together....

Not the bulb, but a bad socket. If you have a socket that's causing a partial ground loop, that can cause the symptoms you are seeing. When you pull the bulb it usually opens the socket ground loop and changes the symptoms. And while you're doing that you might as well clean out all the dried out grease/crud that you'll find on the socket bases. I did that a few months ago. I cleaned out all the old yellow grease from the factory and put in a bunch of ox-gard. Maybe that could be my issue.

I'll try all those fixes. thanks. You can confirm one bad bulb will cause entire circuit failure?

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro I'm honestly thinking a bad ground at a socket in the rear. That will be my next attempt. One concern that it might not fix the issue is this: will a single bad socket in a tail light effect the entire parking lamp/instrument light circuit? Other wise I will be out of ideas without actually pulling the harness apart one wire at a time.